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The Summer That Made the Hills

Of the millions of summers the Black Hills have seen, the summer of 1927 was surely the most eventful — and perhaps cemented the region’s status as the popular tourist attraction that it is today.

Much of the credit goes to President Calvin Coolidge, who arrived in the Hills for a three-week vacation in June 1927 and liked the cool mountain air, trout-filled streams and forested hills so much he stayed three months. And wherever the president went, the media followed, so newspaper readers around the country read stories that summer filed from western South Dakota, a faraway place still unknown to many.

Coolidge’s presence also helped kick start Mount Rushmore. Sculptor Gutzon Borglum had toiled on the monument for two years and had already held a dedication ceremony. But he took advantage of having the president in his backyard and staged a second, more widely publicized dedication in August. That turned the nation’s attention to the project and won the approval of Coolidge, who later supported legislation funding the project.

Unfortunately Coolidge’s relationship with the eccentric artist later turned sour. After the president’s retirement, he asked a visitor to his New England home how far he thought they were from the Black Hills.”About 1,500 miles,” the man responded.

“Well,” the reticent Coolidge retorted,”that’s about as close to Mr. Borglum as I care to be.”

The Coolidges stayed at the Game Lodge in Custer State Park, and the president used offices at Rapid City High School. Mrs. Coolidge knitted on the lodge porch and enjoyed nature walks, though she once got lost briefly, causing the president to scold the First Lady’s security agent. A creek running through the park was later named for her. Photographs showed the president enjoying great success trout fishing, though it was later revealed that Black Hills boosters stocked the streams, virtually guaranteeing Coolidge a fresh catch every time out.

Though Coolidge didn’t attend the groundbreaking ceremony, construction of the Hotel Alex Johnson also began during the summer of 1927. The stately Alex Johnson was designed to honor two groups: German immigrants through its German Tudor architectural style, and Native Americans. Alex Carlton Johnson, vice president of the Chicago-Northwestern Railroad and the hotel’s namesake, deeply appreciated Native culture. The hotel’s lobby is filled with Native relics and symbols, including a chandelier made of war spears. It’s become a popular destination for Black Hills travelers and dignitaries.

To help Coolidge remember his summer in the Hills, locals gave him a pair of boots and a 10-gallon hat, which he sported on a much-publicized horseback ride up Mount Rushmore. A modern-day homage to the president is his bronze statue at the southwest corner of Fifth and Main streets in downtown Rapid City, part of the City of Presidents project. Coolidge is beaming, holding his hat and standing next to a saddle, a reminder of one of his happiest summers and one that significantly shaped the Black Hills that we know today.

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Karolevitz: Rose to the Challenge

Way back in the 1960s, a bunch of 4-H kids gathered at Pine Acres 4-H Grounds in Yankton for our annual meeting. We enjoyed our moms’ potluck casseroles and then some guy with a crewcut got up to speak.

He explained that he had recently moved back to Yankton, and then he started telling stories. Funny stories. We’d never heard anything like him — not even on television or radio. He knew stories about people and places we knew and loved.

That was my introduction to Bob Karolevitz. About a decade later, when my brother, Brian and I were figuring out how to get more readers for our newspaper, The Yankton County Observer, I remembered that funny guy. Brian suggested that we get acquainted with him by featuring him in our paper. Bob had just finished writing the state’s history in commemoration of the state’s bi-centennial, and he was as busy as anybody in South Dakota. But he happily met with Brian, and the very next week we featured him and his lovely wife, Phyllis.

Before long, Bob agreed to write a humor column that appeared weekly in The Observer for the past 30 years. Through the years, many other papers also started to publish his weekly humor. I don’t think I ever read his column without remembering that 4-H dinner at Pine Acres.

Sadly, Bob had to stop writing the column a year ago due to declining health. And last Friday night, Bob Karolevitz died at age 89. South Dakota has lost one of its greatest historians and perhaps its most prolific author.

Karolevitz was one of America’s great promoters. In fact, he was a well-known public relations director on the West Coast before he came home to Yankton in the 1960s to establish a literary career. Many South Dakotans probably won’t recognize his name because of the simple fact that he never promoted himself any more than absolutely necessary.

Still, among journalists and historians he will forever be remembered for the timeless books he provided. Some were serious, like the bi-centennial book that today is regarded as one of the most complete and readable histories ever penned. He titled it South Dakota: The Challenge State because he believed the our peoples’ trials and tribulations have led to an admirable work ethic and value system. He once worked to nickname South Dakota.”The Challenge State,” but it never quite took hold.

Karolevitz dedicated the book to “South Dakotans of all eras — Indian and non-Indian men and women … and especially those who have faced and conquered the challenges in anonymity.”

His stories were not just about the rich and famous, the powerful and political. His blue collar boyhood days in Depression era Yankton must have taught him that the folks who really make a community and a state successful are those who work long days on the farms, in the stores and factories and offices.

In the early 1980s, we collaborated with Bob to compile some of his funny columns into a series of popular books. The first was titled Touloose the Goose and Other Ridiculous Stories. We pictured Bob at his beloved Mission Hill farm, caught in a mess of barbed wire, digging a grave for a favorite hen and riding a hobbyhorse. He made a living as a serious writer, thinker and speaker — but he also had a knack for making us laugh and it’s a gift he shared.

My favorite Karolevitz story is about the church meeting where members are trying to decide how to spend a $100 donation they’d received from an estate. One fellow made a motion that the church buy a chandelier with the money, but his neighbor jumped up to speak in opposition.

“Let’s not waste this money on a chandelier!” he argued. “We don’t need some darned chandelier. What this church needs is more light!”

Of course, there was often a lesson in Bob’s humor. But he was never one to preach to readers or listeners. You might not realize you learned something until hours after the hearty laugh.

In all, Karolevitz wrote 37 books, plus countless newspaper articles and stories — including many fine contributions to South Dakota Magazine. His writings will be of immeasurable value for as long as there is a South Dakota. What a void we would have in many areas of literature if Bob and his wife, Phyllis, had not wanted to return to their home state from Seattle more than 50 years ago with their two daughters, Jan and Jill. Phyllis was a a full partner in Bob’s work, helping with research, book sales, travel arrangements, farm chores and numerous other details that writers often neglect.

South Dakota has never been an easy place to earn a living as a writer. That was especially true when he came home in the 1960s. He never became rich from the 37 books and the thousands of columns he wrote — but we are all far richer because he wrote them.

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No Gold In Those Hills

By John Andrews

Sorry, treasure hunters. We’re about to burst your bubble.

Our blog last week about the South Dakota guidebook written in the 1930s prompted a note from Custer, South Dakota photographer Paul Horsted. He’s been trying to correct a myth that’s been circulating ever since the book appeared.

Apparently the writer was told a tall tale about buried treasure. The story says that as Custer and his men were leaving the Black Hills following their 1874 expedition, they buried a large cache of arms, ammunition, gold and whiskey at their campsite where Box Elder Creek meets Bogus Jim Creek.

Horsted has done two books that retrace the Custer Expedition’s trail, so he has spent hours digging through old accounts of the trip. He regularly receives inquiries about this stash because the story appears on numerous treasure hunting websites, and he’s eager to set the record straight.

Here’s why Horsted believes the story is garbage: “No one has ever been able to explain why Custer would bury anything. They were about to re-cross Indian territory and would want all their guns. Based on accounts, the whiskey was being consumed in large enough quantities that burying it would make no sense at this point. as they were heading home. There’s no discussion in the accounts of enough gold being found to bury any of it due to weight. They had over 100 wagons to carry supplies, many of which would have been quite empty by this part of the expedition.”

And here’s what Horsted says really happened: “A wagon (possibly carrying a Gatling gun) and apparently some other wagons tipped over on a rough section of trail. The gun was recovered but parts of the wrecked carriage it was on may have been left behind. This somehow turned into ‘buried guns’ and then ‘buried gold’ and the rest over time. Great story, but there is absolutely no mention of anything like that in the 15 first-hand eyewitness accounts of this expedition which we have researched for our books. (If there was, I’d be out there looking myself!)”

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Langford Smithy Helped Build First Tractor

Many agricultural innovations have come from South Dakota. Farmers have equipment they believe can be improved, and with a little tinkering there’s a brand new product. Norman Olson, a Langford native, writes to us from Colorado this week to tell us about Will Mann, a Day County homesteader and mechanic who helped build the world’s first successful gasoline-powered tractor.

Mann worked with John Froelich, from Iowa. Froelich brought a threshing crew to Langford every year, and became intrigued by the problems his straw-burning, steam-powered rig presented. It was dangerous to burn straw in strong Dakota winds with little available water, so Froelich started tinkering with a gas-powered substitute.

In 1892, Froelich and a team of inventors including Mann finished a tractor that could move forward and backward. They used it to power a thresher, then brought it to Day County for 52 days of harvest that fall.

Unfortunately Froelich and Mann were ahead of their time. Froelich started a tractor company, but his new invention didn’t catch on until long after he left the company.

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Traveling S.D.: 75 Years Ago

While researching a story for our upcoming issue, I’ve spent considerable time looking through the South Dakota guidebook compiled in the 1930s. The authors were writers struggling to find work during the Great Depression, so they joined the Federal Writers Project under the Works Progress Administration. They got to travel the state and write about what you could find. Sounds like a pretty good gig.

The pages are filled with interesting nuggets of South Dakota history. Here are a few examples:

  • When a writer passed through Corson County he found Sitting Bull Park on the site where the great Hunkpapa chief was killed in 1890. He noted that an Indian guide was available during the summer. Today, however, Sitting Bull’s great-grandson Ernie LaPointe reports that the only marker at the death site is one place by the state historical society, and that it can only be reached by four wheel drive.
  • The city of Woonsocket was in the running to be world headquarters for Post cereals. C.W. Post liked Woonsocket’s location in the heart of the grain belt, but city leaders were skeptical of the young man’s plan. Plus he wanted them to simply give him a piece of land for his factory. They passed, and Post took his idea to Battle Creek, Michigan.
  • The largest tree in the state was discovered on the Sutton Ranch in Sully County. The huge cottonwood measured 40 feet around at its base. A fierce windstorm later blew it down.
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Bygone Days On Your iPad

John Penor was a Perkins County rancher who took photos as a hobby. The historic images he captured around his hometown of Bison from 1907 to 1957 were published in a book in 2005 and are now available as an iPad application.

“It’s a voyage into South Dakota history,” says Zach Smith, who created the application with Penor’s great-nephew Steven Sebring. “It emphasized the story of the Penor family, but it also emphasizes the ways in which that part of the world was critical in the history of America.”

Sebring discovered hundreds of negatives in Penor’s home and created a book called Bygone Days in 2005. The iPad application of the same name includes photographs, early Black Hills film, newspapers and audio from an interview with Penor. Download the application here.