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Nestled in the Badlands

The lights of Interior twinkle against the Badlands wall.

There once was a town called Black on the White River. Black was the name of an area pioneer family when the post office was established in the 1880s. After several floods and a fire that burned much of the town, it was reestablished a mile or two north where the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad tracks were built in 1907. Postmasters Louis and George Johnson had recently received a letter from the Department of the Interior, which went hand-in-hand with the community’s new location in the”interior” of the Badlands and the town of Interior was born.

The little town’s remoteness has presented challenges. Jerry Johnston, owner of the Wagon Wheel Bar on Main Street, remembers when a dorm next to the school housed some of his classmates from area towns too small to have a high school and from area ranches too remote for daily travel. He also recalls a business called the Peace Pipe, which was a hangout for kids. A jukebox, pinball machines, comic books, burgers and ice cream were offered.”As soon as school was over that was our social grounds,” Johnston says. The owners had the only television in town and let the kids watch it in their home as long as they sat quietly on the floor.

Ansel Wooden Knife operated a cafe famous for authentic Indian tacos in Interior before the fry bread he made overtook the business. So many people asked for it that he began packaging and selling Wooden Knife Fry Bread Mix throughout the region and closed the cafe. He now offers frozen fry bread as well.

Until recently the highway signs at opposite ends of town disagreed about Interior’s population.”They said something like 97 on one end of town and 64 on the other, so it depended on whether you were coming or going,” laughs Johnston. Both signs now read 94.

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Badlands B&B

Phil and Amy Kruse at the Circle View Guest Ranch.

Before even hearing the term, Phil Kruse had an agritourism bed and breakfast in mind. The third-generation rancher began building his dream lodge on the family place a few miles west of Interior in 1996 with help from his father and family. Circle View Guest Ranch opened in 2000 with eight rooms and a spectacular view of the White River and the Badlands wall.

Four years later his wife Amy came to Badlands National Park with plans of a career in the National Park Service. Instead, she met Phil and,”the B&B became my baby,” she says. Actual babies followed. Their kids are now 14, 12, and 11 and help around the ranch.

A steady stream of visitors enjoys the ranch each summer.”People love seeing the chickens, cattle and burros,” Amy says.”They just eat it up.”

“We do get people who are plum scared after they drive out here, though,” Phil adds.”They ask, ‘How do you live here?’ Covid actually boosted our business. It’s easy to isolate here because that’s what we do.”


Cheaper than Disney

Sue Leach

Located within sight of Badlands National Park, Interior’s economy naturally depends on the visitor industry. Sue Leach, owner of the Cowboy Corner convenience store and cafe for 14 years, says people are traveling differently in the last two years than previously.”As long as you have internet service, they are happy to be outdoors,” Leach says. Her Friday and Saturday night steak specials are well-known around the area, and she expects another good summer season in the Badlands.”We are a lot cheaper than Disney World,” she laughs.


An Eye on Interior

Elsie Fortune

Elsie Fortune grew up on her family’s ranch south of Interior and went to college on a rodeo scholarship. Photography caught her eye and she worked for a wedding photographer, leading to one of Interior’s newer businesses. Now around 90 percent of Fortune’s wedding and portrait customers are friends from the area. That’s just one of many hats she wears. She still helps on the family ranch and is a brand inspector and veterinarian’s assistant at the Philip Sale Barn. Fortune was the 2012 South Dakota High School Rodeo Queen and won the state breakaway roping title that year.


Badlands Guides

Jordan and Casie Donald

Casie Donald’s Hurley Butte Horseback riding adventure business weathered the pandemic fairly well.”In 2020 we didn’t know how it was going to go, but we are at least six feet apart anyway,” she says.”Overall, our business wasn’t hurt at all.”

Donald’s father started the horseback riding business when he offered his teenage children as guides for interested guests at the nearby Circle View Guest Ranch.”We weren’t excited at first, but when our first customer handed us tips, we decided there might be something to it,” laughs Casie. She and husband Jordan now have a full-time gig leading four or five riders at a time across the prairie in addition to ranching.


World champion cowboys frequent Interior’s Wagon Wheel.

See a World Champ

Rodeo has always been important in Interior. In the 1920s Interior hosted the third largest rodeo in the world, Johnston says. Old newspaper accounts and photos hang on the wall in the community center next to the fire hall. The Interior Roundup was so popular that trainloads of tourists would come from Chicago and camp in town. One story describes 100 Native Americans charging through the campsite on horseback, firing guns in the air and leaving stunned visitors in their wake. Pow wow dancing, buffalo and beef feeds, a parade and rodeo events filled out the three-day extravaganzas.

Cowboys still frequent Interior.”Some nights there will be two or three world champion cowboys in here,” Johnston says of the Wagon Wheel.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the May/June 2022 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117

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The Badlands Ranch

As Badlands B&B pioneers, Phil and Amy Kruse occasionally speak at entrepreneurship conferences. They recently visited Lemmon, where they posed by a mural near John Lopez’s Kokomo Gallery.

Badlands ranching was never easy. Rain is always scarce and the soil seems better suited to prickly pear cactus than anything a sheep or cow might enjoy. Still, there’s a peaceful beauty to the landscapes — which sometimes look like the moon with some grass, a rare tree and a dirt road added — so the Kruse family has been finding ways to stay put for 101 years.

Phil Kruse was born there in 1963. He studied electrical engineering at LeTourneau University in Texas, but soon after graduating he came home to the ranch.”I knew I’d have to supplement the income,” he says, noting that the rugged land requires about 50 acres of forage for every cow.”Just in my lifetime we’ve lost about half of the farmers in our area.”

Even as a teenager, Phil recognized that there might be potential in the 1 million travelers who pass within a few miles of the Kruse ranch every summer.”I always had a dream of maybe doing a bed and breakfast,” he says.

With the help of his father and brothers, he started to build a concrete guest house in 1996.”I hooked the cement mixer to the tractor and bought 200 bags at a time from the South Dakota Cement Plant in Rapid City,” he says.

When he ran short of money, he tried to get a loan for more cement.”The banker said he couldn’t loan me anything until it was finished,” he remembers,”and I couldn’t finish it without the loan.” Fortunately his dad scraped together $20,000 and work proceeded on the eight-room lodge now known as the Circle View Ranch, just a few miles west of Interior along Highway 44.

He welcomed his first guests in 2000.”Right away, we got a lot of foreigners because they knew what a B&B was. We could see that people appreciated our authenticity.”

Bookings were slow in the early years. That began to change in 2003 when Amy Kom, an Arizona State University student from Idaho, arrived to do a summer internship at the national park. She met Phil at a branding; they were engaged by July and married by October.

Though she was new to the region, Amy shared Phil’s love of the Badlands and his vision to create a lodge for travelers. She brought a feminine touch to the business, plus some restaurant experience and her new degree in recreation management. As the years passed, she also delivered three children who have grown up making coffee, doing laundry and showing city people how to feed the chickens that are scratching in the yard.

A carrol-loving donkey called Jack is sometimes part of the welcoming committee at the Circle View, along with the Kruses’ children, Russell, Jacob and Katie.

Amy says the guests are looking for a rural experience or they wouldn’t be there, but she and Phil don’t put on a show.”We just live our lives. There might be a rattlesnake on the back deck (though that would be rare) and the baby might be crying but that’s just how we live.”

The Kruses’ children — Katie, 11, Jacob, 10, and Russell, 9 — welcome tag-alongs as they feed an orphan calf or collect eggs. The children also help to serve a full ranch breakfast to the guests, who may number 30 to 40 on a summer morning.

The complimentary breakfast is a favorite for the travelers, who have often grown weary of restaurant fare, and Amy says cooking for three dozen”isn’t such a big deal when you do it every day. We have a system.”

The breakfast routine actually begins with that Badlands soil.”We harvest our own wheat that we grow at the ranch,” Amy says.”We grind wheat every couple of weeks and I make a flour for our own whole wheat and berry pancakes.” The children pick fresh eggs from the hen house, and honey is also produced on the ranch. The rest of the menu varies from day to day, but always with enough variety to suit all palates.

After breakfast, most guests head for the park but oftentimes they are reluctant to leave the ranch. Some go on rock hunting or prairie dog hunting expeditions, while others are content feeding carrots to the donkey or petting Cowboy Kitty, a 15-year-old black cat.

“People also like to watch the fall roundup, spring branding and vaccinating — whatever we might be doing,” Phil says.”People are interested in rural America. But we don’t really entertain people. We don’t have the time.”

Phil’s brother, Daniel, and Daniel’s daughter, Casie, offer horseback tours and the Kruses have welcomed weddings, retreats, class reunions and other big gatherings.

Circle View also has an accommodation for more solitary travelers — honeymooners, perhaps, or a reclusive poet: it’s a homesteader’s cabin that is cleaner but no more civilized than it was in 1880 when built by the Hamm family.

There’s no plumbing or electricity, although there is a wood outhouse and a fire pit outside. Guests bring their own bedding, water and supplies. The cabin, which lies close to the White River, ranks as one of South Dakota’s most primitive lodging rentals. A New York Times travel writer described it as an opportunity to”live the hardscrabble life of a claimer for a night or two.” The Kruses also have two other cabins with all the usual amenities, along with the eight-room lodge.

They were already busy 10 years ago when AirBnB began to change the bed and breakfast industry. Today the website accounts for a considerable share of their bookings, and they stay busy throughout the summer, but they still find time to enjoy the Badlands.

“We like to hike the park,” says Amy.”The kids especially like Notch Trail, where there’s a really thrilling ladder that you have to climb to reach an amazing view. We also like to go fishing in the dam, motorcycling or kayaking in the White River.”

The uncertainty of weather and cattle prices have taken a toll on Badlands farmers and ranchers through the years but the Kruses”make hay” from a neighborly culture that has survived good times and bad.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the November/December 2019 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Cowboy Up at Interior

There’s a rodeo nearly every weekend during summer in South Dakota, and few are as steeped in tradition as the gathering in Interior. Cowboys have challenged each other’s roping and riding skills there since the early 1920s, when it was among the largest rodeos in the country. Today the Interior rodeo doesn’t draw as well as it once did, but bronc rides and bull rides at the edge of the Badlands are still as entertaining and exciting as ever.

Rapid City photographer Jeremiah M. Murphy made his annual visit to the Interior Frontier Days rodeo on July 4. Here are a few snapshots from the evening’s bronc rides and behind the chutes scenes. If you want to take in a South Dakota rodeo with your own eyes, there are great opportunities this weekend at Boss Cowman Days in Lemmon and the Wall Celebration, or next weekend at the Burke Stampede Rodeo and the Geddes rodeo.