Category: columns-food

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The Other Red Meat

By Fran Hill

When people learn that my husband and I raise sheep, they almost immediately follow up with a comment that they haven’t ever eaten lamb. Many South Dakotans, in my experience, haven’t sampled this other red meat. It truly is a shame.

Lamb is naturally lean and has a distinctive earthiness. It’s flavor leans to rich and grassy and is a satisfying centerpiece of any menu.

While I have a friend that jumped right in by roasting a leg of lamb for her family’s first lamb experience, I know that isn’t for everyone. Ground lamb is probably an easier segue if this is a new protein for you. Several years ago, I shared our favorite Greek-Style Lamb Burgers here with South Dakota Magazine, but why stop there? Lamb Meatballs are an even simpler way to incorporate lamb into your meal plan. It’s a basic recipe that produces tender and flavorful meatballs to tuck into pita with all your favorite accompaniments or serve over a salad dressed with lemon. Don’t skip the Tahini Yogurt. It cools the spice of the red pepper flakes and provides a nice balance to the richness of the meatballs.

Meatballs are an easy introduction to the richness and earthiness of lamb.

Lamb Meatballs with Tahini Yogurt

(adapted from The Kitchn)

For the meatballs:

3 cloves garlic, grated

1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped

2/3 cup panko breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon ground sumac

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup water

2 large eggs

1 pound ground lamb

For the sauce:

1 medium lemon

1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt

1/4 cup tahini

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment.

Combine all meatball ingredients in a large bowl just until mixed. (Don’t overwork the mixture; this creates a tough meatball.) Gently roll the lamb mixture into approximately 12-15 golf ball-sized balls. Place on the baking sheet. Bake until browned and cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, juice the lemon into in a small bowl. Add the remaining sauce ingredients and stir to combine. (Serves 4)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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Asparagus Dreams

By Fran Hill

Spring 2022 has blown into South Dakota. Literally. We’ve battled more days of high wind warnings than sweet, warm sunshine, but I am confident that true spring will show its face soon. The lilac bushes are leafing. Lawns and pastures are greening. My irises and tulips are poking up through the flower beds, and the herb bed is showing promises of chives. I am anxious for asparagus. The soil hasn’t yet warmed enough for those tender shoots to peek up, but I hope to see them soon. I simply can’t wait.

Garden fresh asparagus is the best, and we enjoy it roasted, grilled, steamed and even raw in salads. In season, it gets tossed with pasta and sauteed in stir fries. Asparagus is also a delicious savory addition to eggs. One of our favorite egg and asparagus dishes is a popover. Much like a Dutch Baby, the skillet popover features a light egg batter that rises up the sides of a screaming hot cast-iron pan or”pops over” into a puffy pancake. Seasonal asparagus and nutty Gruyere cheese make it a meal that we love to find on our plates every spring.

Fresh asparagus is a savory addition to eggs.

Asparagus Popover

(adapted from Every Day with Rachael Ray)

1 pound asparagus

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup milk

4 eggs, room temperature

1/2 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup shredded Gruyere cheese (or Swiss)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Bring about 2 inches of salted water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Trim the asparagus and cut into thirds. Add the asparagus to the boiling water and blanche about 3 minutes, until tender-crisp. Drain and rinse with cold water; pat dry.

Meanwhile in a medium (10-inch) cast-iron skillet add the butter. Place the skillet into the oven to melt the butter and heat the pan.

In a medium bowl, microwave the milk on high for 30 seconds. Whisk in eggs, flour, salt and pepper.

Remove the cast-iron skillet from the oven and quickly arrange the asparagus in the bottom of the hot pan. (You don’t want the pan to cool and lose too much heat.) Pour the batter over the asparagus. Sprinkle with half of the cheese.

Return the pan to the oven and bake until puffed and golden, 18-20 minutes.

Top with remaining cheese (it should melt from residual heat, but you can return the popover to the oven for just a minute or so).

Slice into wedges to serve. (Serves 4)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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Luck of the Irish Soda Bread

By Fran Hill

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Are you celebrating the wearing of the green today? While Hubs and I aren’t really the green beer type, this day for the luck of the Irish is probably one of our favorites. Why? Of course, it’s the food.

Ten days ago, I brought a mix of fragrant spices and salts to a boil and added ice water to create a brine bath for a big chunk of trimmed brisket. After soaking for several days, that brined beef is slowly simmered with onions, carrots and celery until fork tender. Homemade corned beef really is so very delicious and something that we look forward to every March … especially the leftovers for Reuben sandwiches.

On the side with that corned beef, we always have buttered and steamed cabbage (much better than boiled, in my opinion), my version of Colcannon made with garlicky mashed potatoes and whipped with wilted spinach instead of cabbage or kale, and usually a mustardy cream gravy to top it all. Often, I also bake a moist and rich Chocolate Guinness Cake that is layered with Bailey’s Buttercream to end the meal. Our St. Patrick’s Day feast is a rival to all food holidays.

Back before I really began exploring cooking from scratch, I would have pulled the box of baking mix from the pantry to stir up a pan of Quick Irish Soda Bread. These days, it only takes a couple extra steps to create an equally simple loaf from scratch that has a tender crumb and golden-brown crust. Slices of this warm soda bread beg to be slathered with salted butter and served alongside everything from our favorite corned beef dinner to rich Irish lamb stews and even as a sub for biscuits with our favorite sausage gravy.

May your day be touched by Irish luck and a lot of good food.

Enjoy Irish Soda Bread topped with salted butter or alongside your traditional corned beef and cabbage St. Patrick’s Day dinner.

Cast Iron Irish Soda Bread

(adapted from Cooking Channel)

4 cups flour, plus more for dusting

3 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 cup currants

1 egg

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing pan

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Lightly butter a 10-inch cast iron pan, set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking soda, cream of tartar, salt and currants. In a large mixing cup, beat together egg, buttermilk and melted butter.

Gradually add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients while stirring with a rubber spatula. Stir just until ingredients begin to come together into a shaggy dough. Lightly dust countertop with additional flour and turn dough out onto surface. Gently knead the dough a few seconds to pull together into a 6–8-inch round (dough will still be somewhat sticky, do not overwork). Place dough round into the prepared cast iron pan. With a sharp knife, carve an”X” into the dough ball.

Bake at 400 degrees F for 30 to 40 minutes, until golden brown and center is baked through (test with a skewer). Serve warm with salted butter.

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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The Most Important Meal

By Fran Hill

Breakfast foods are my heart’s desire. Pancakes, waffles and French toast. Eggs: poached, scrambled, fried, rolled into an omelet, or baked into a quiche. Bacon. Sausage. Ham. Oatmeal. Potatoes shredded into hash browns or tossed with veggies in hashes. Biscuits. Sweet rolls. Danishes. Doughnuts. Fruit. Bagels. Lox. Burritos and cold pizza. Big glasses of milk or orange juice and steaming mugs of coffee and tea. Breakfast foods make me drool.

However, as someone who is frenemies with insomnia, it often seems like my best sleep happens just before the alarm goes off. The snooze button is my favorite. Staying in bed as late as possible is my Olympic sport. If I am on a schedule, there is seldom time for breakfast after I have finally drug myself through the shower and gotten presentable for the world. If I am not leaving the house, I often get wrapped up in my to-do list of projects and by the time I think I want to eat, the fridge seems full of”ingredients” instead of”food.”

Most days for breakfast, I require something simple that is also, if need be, easily portable. Brown Sugar Granola is the tasty solution. I can have it as cereal with milk, fresh or dried fruit optional. I can fill a baggie with these crunchy morsels and some dried fruit to gobble by the handful on the go. Or I can savor it my favorite way, as a topping with Greek yogurt and fresh fruit. (BTW … Hubs’ favorite way to enjoy it is sprinkled over a bowl of vanilla ice cream.) Brown Sugar Granola is one way I manage to (sometimes) get the most important meal of the day.

Breakfast can be complex or as simple as Brown Sugar Granola.

Brown Sugar Granola

(adapted from The Food Network)

1 1/2 cups brown sugar

1/2 cup water

4 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

8 cups old fashioned rolled oats (not instant or steel cut)

1 cup pecans, coarsely chopped

1 cup almonds, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup flax seeds

1/2 cup toasted pepitas

Heat oven to 275 degrees F.

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment.

Combine brown sugar and water in a microwavable bowl or measuring cup.

Microwave on ‘High’ for 5 minutes, until sugar is dissolved.

Remove from microwave, stir in salt, vanilla and cinnamon.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine oats, nuts and seeds.

Add the brown sugar mixture and stir to coat evenly.

Divide between 2 baking sheets and spread evenly; bake for about 1 hour, until oats and nuts are roasted.

When granola has cooled completely, store in an air-tight container.

Note: I have found that it keeps better if I don’t mix dried fruit in for storage and just add to individual portions.

(Serves 10-12)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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Soup Season

By Fran Hill

January is absolutely soup season, and I am here for it. My husband is not really a casserole kind of guy, but he loves soup, and all winter long, I take advantage of that. There is something very cozy about a pot simmering on the stovetop and filling the house with delicious aromas.

Chili is the quintessential winter soup, but there is so much more. We make noodles and shred chicken for another classic. Beans are soaked and simmered with ham bones for something from my childhood. Creamy potato soups sometimes lean toward chowders, often with seafood. Chunks of beef are slowly braised with loads of vegetables and rich stocks. It feels so smart to thinly slice leftover pork and drop into brothy bowls with Asian noodles. While fresh ingredients are great, soup can easily come together with leftovers and pantry and freezer staples. And, on those days that we don’t have the time or inclination to put forth a lot of effort, a jar of home canned tomato soup is heated to pair with grilled cheese. I don’t know that there is a soup or stew that we don’t like.

Our current favorite soup is loaded with winter vegetables and gains a ton of flavor from spicy sausage. At first glance, you will think it also has tomatoes, but the color comes from a generous seasoning of smoked paprika. I have made it with both chicken and turkey broth, but vegetable broth would also work. Don’t skip splashing in the red wine vinegar. That bit of acid lends a brightness that really balances all the flavors in this simple and mouthwatering soup.

Sausage and Brussels Sprouts Soup

Sausage and Brussels sprouts soup warms on the coldest of January days.

(adapted from Eating Well)

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1/2 pound spicy Italian sausage

1 cup diced onion

1/2 cup diced carrot

1/2 cup diced celery

2-3 cloves garlic, chopped

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 1/2 cups cubed potatoes (I used red potatoes)

1 1/2 cups small to medium Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

4 cups chicken broth

2-4 tablespoons red-wine vinegar (start with 2Tbsp, taste, and add more as desired)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground pepper

1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add sausage and cook, breaking up with the spoon, until browned. Transfer to a plate.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, onion, carrot and celery to the pot; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add garlic and paprika; cook and stir just until fragrant. Add potatoes, Brussels sprouts, and broth; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes and Brussels sprouts are tender.

Stir in the sausage, vinegar to taste, and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with parsley.
(Serves 4)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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A ‘Savory Delight’

By Fran Hill

Here in South Dakota, prime rib is popular for Christmas dinner. Why wouldn’t it be? South Dakota reportedly has the most cattle per person in the United States. Agriculture is the bread and butter for so many across the region and beef is absolutely what’s for dinner.

What do you serve with that delicious, slow roasted hunk of beef? Personally, I have always leaned into twice baked potatoes, buttery rolls and a fresh, crisp salad. This year, I am adding Roasted Onions to the menu.

Roasted Onions are a savory delight that complement not just prime rib, but could accompany turkey, holiday ham, brisket and just about anything from the grill. The other night, I served this tangy, but rich dish alongside some grilled lamb brats and creamy mashed potatoes. The sliced onions are marinated with red wine vinegar and brown sugar before being baked. I am always amazed at how the slow cooking process releases that natural sweetness of onions and creates such a rich deliciousness.

This recipe is adaptable. The kind and size of onion you choose will affect its cooking time. Of course, larger onions will need more time, but a sweeter onion also cooks slightly faster. The amount of marinade works well for three to four large onions but could easily bathe more smaller onions as portion appropriate sides. Fresh rosemary and red pepper flakes add an earthiness to the dish that aside from a little planning ahead prep is almost fix-it-and-forget-it easy.

Anyone that is a fan of French onion soup will love these simple and flavorful Roasted Onions on the holiday table.

Savory Roasted Onions pair well with Christmas prime rib.

Roasted Onions

3-4 large yellow, white or red onions (or more smaller onions to fit a 9×13 pan) {I used Vidalia onions.}

Marinade:

1 cup water

1 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 pinch red pepper flakes

Roasting:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped

Trim root and stem ends from onions. Slice in half horizontally and remove skins from onion halves.

Combine all marinade ingredients in a 9×13 (or similarly sized) pan. Arrange onions in the marinade cut side down.

Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Pull onions from the fridge and allow pan to warm closer to room temp (alternatively, transfer to a different baking dish to avoid possible accidents from temperature shock of cold pan/hot oven).

Flip onions in the marinade for the wider side to be up. Top each onion with a pat of butter and an additional sprinkling of fresh rosemary.

Bake, covered, for 1 hour. Uncover, baste onions with the reduced marinade and continue baking 15-20 minutes until onions are desired tenderness. (Larger onions may require more time but watch that smaller onions don’t scorch.)

Before serving, again spoon the reduced sauce over the cooked onions and garnish with additional red pepper flakes (if desired) and sprigs of fresh rosemary. (Serves 6.)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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Tried and New

By Fran Hill

Thanksgiving is right around the corner. Every food centric website is bursting with recipes that promise to change your life, be a fun twist on a classic or prove to be the easiest hack ever for your holiday meal.

However, at the end of the day, 99.6 percent of home cooks are sticking with their tried-and-true family favorites. You aren’t alone if you read through countless new recipes, but never refer to them again. Thanksgiving is truly a meal of comfort and gratitude.

I am one of those traditionalists. Occasionally, I may try something new for our meal, but usually, it is in addition to what I feel are essentials. I am thankful for turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, gravy, roasted butternut squash (instead of sweet potatoes), cranberry sauce, brussels sprouts or green beans and dinner rolls. Those HAVE TO be on my Thanksgiving table. I have my favorite methods for preparing them, and I seldom deviate regardless of how many other recipes I may browse that offer me”a little something special.”

So, what am I, a food columnist, going to offer you this holiday season that will change your life? What fun twist on a classic do I have up my sleeve? What is an easy hack that will be a little something special? I present Cranberry Mustard.

You may not want or need Cranberry Mustard on your Thanksgiving table but trust me. It is the seasonal condiment for leftover turkey sandwiches that will make you thankful. Put a dish of Cranberry Mustard on your charcuterie board. Pair it with goat cheese on crackers, any deeply rich and earthy sausage (like braunschweiger), or some hard cheeses and cream cheese. This recipe does make a lot. Portion some into pretty little jars and share with your friends and family. In addition to turkey, it is great with ham, pork, and even sausages roasted with pierogis. You will be thankful for Cranberry Mustard.

Stuffing, corn and pumpkin pie are Thanksgiving staples, but for something different on the holiday table, try Cranberry Mustard.

Cranberry Mustard

(adapted from Ball Canning and Preserving)

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1/3 cup mustard seeds (all yellow or a mix of yellow and brown)

1 cup water

2 3/4 cups fresh cranberries

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons dry mustard

1 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Bring vinegar to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat and add mustard seeds. Cover and let stand at room temperature for about an hour. (Seeds will absorb most of the liquid.)

In a food processor, add mustard seeds, water, and cranberries. Pulse until berries are mostly chopped, but still chunky.

Return cranberries to the saucepan and stir in sugar, dry mustard and allspice. Bring cranberry mixture to a boil, stirring to avoid sticking. Reduce heat and simmer about 20 minutes, still stirring frequently, until mixture has thickened and slightly jelled.

(Cranberry Mustard can be canned by water bath method or stored refrigerated for about a month.)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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All Things Pumpkin

By Fran Hill

I love autumn. The chill in the air, the smell of wood smoke drifting from chimneys, and the brilliant leaves are all cozy comforts for me. Of course, I can’t forget about the food of fall. Crisp, fresh apples, roasted winter squash, braised hunks of beef swimming with root vegetables, steaming pots of soup, herb stuffed chicken with the crispiest skin, and, of course, the quintessential pumpkin.

I love pumpkin. Pumpkin pie, pumpkin bread, pumpkin seed salsa, and pumpkin and black bean soup; pumpkin in any shape or form is vying for my attention during the fall months. I gleaned the recipe for pumpkin cornmeal muffins from a magazine almost 20 years ago and blow the dust off it every autumn. It has become a staple of Thanksgiving morning served with a spicy chile relleno egg bake and fresh fruit, a sweeter side with soups, and a filling snack for chilly afternoons. The muffins are dense, moist and hearty. Serve warm and slather with butter for a perfect addition to fall.

Pumpkin cornmeal muffins are an autumn baking staple for Fran Hill.

Pumpkin Cornmeal Muffins

(adapted from Real Simple)

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup light brown sugar

1/2 cup milk

4 eggs

1 (15 ounce) can solid-pack pumpkin (NOT pie filling)

1-1/2 cups whole wheat flour (AP flour will work and produce a muffin with a little less nuttiness and density)

1 cup yellow cornmeal

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

2-4 tablespoons roasted pepitas

Heat oven to 350 degrees F.

Lightly coat muffin tins with vegetable cooking spray or line cups with muffin papers.

In a large bowl, beat the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy.

Add the remaining ingredients and beat until smooth.

Spoon the batter into the muffin pans.

Sprinkle with pepitas.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into a muffin comes out clean.

Cool on a wire rack. (12 muffins)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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Going Green

By Fran Hill

It is Earth Day. Countless sources are providing us with information about recycling, reducing pollutants and other ways to minimize our effect on the Earth. Some of it is just common sense, but other ideas are more innovative and creative. It is encouraging to know that people are paying attention and making an effort to protect our resources.

Hubs and I may not make as much of an effort as we should. Recycling processes out here on the prairie just aren’t as simple as curbside pickup. We have to consciously work to reduce, reuse and recycle, and honestly don’t always do as well as we should. I know our household could do better to be more energy efficient and aware of our environment. Earth Day is a good time to contemplate making a change for the green.

Gardening is one seasonal change for green that I am greatly anticipating. I can’t wait to get some seedlings in the ground and am even more anxious for our first harvest. The moment the temps start consistently warming (and the weekly little snow squalls end), you can bet my hands will be in the dirt.

Spinach will be one of the first producers from my garden, and I have a myriad of favorite recipes for this green. Its mild flavor is a perfect complement for so many dishes. I add it to almost everything to boost the vitamin and nutrient count, but it is a featured ingredient of one delicious side: Spinach and Potato Gratin.

Layers of thinly sliced seasoned potatoes and spinach are bathed in cream and topped with beautifully toasted cheese. It is the ideal side dish for everything — beef, pork, fish or poultry. What bite of protein couldn’t benefit from a swirl through the creamy sauce of these potatoes? The green of the spinach in Spinach and Potato Gratin is the perfect earthiness for my plate.

Spinach and thinly sliced potatoes are layered in this creamy, comforting dish.

Spinach and Potato Gratin

4-6 medium red potatoes

10-12 ounces fresh baby spinach

2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

kosher salt

fresh ground black pepper

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/16 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Scrub potatoes and slice (skins on) into 1/4-inch rounds. (I use my mandoline slicer … but watch your fingers.)

Arrange 1/3 of the sliced potatoes in the bottom of a greased casserole dish, baking pan or cast-iron skillet.

Layer 1/2 of the fresh spinach on top. (I press it down a little.)

Brush with melted butter and season with salt and pepper.

Arrange a second layer of 1/3 of the potatoes on top of the seasoned spinach. (Again, I press down to try to get tighter layers.)

Repeat layering with the remaining spinach.

Brush again with melted butter and season with salt and pepper.

Layer the last of the potatoes on top of the spinach, again. (And … yes, again, press down to tighten the layers.)

Brush with the last of the melted butter and season with the salt and pepper. (Beware of over salting with the repeated layers. However, the dish really needs the flavor at each layer, so don’t skimp.)

Whisk the nutmeg and cream together.

Pour over the potato and spinach layers in the casserole dish.

Cover and bake for 40-50 minutes, or until potatoes are tender and cream is bubbling up around the layers. (You may want to place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet or slide some aluminum foil on the rack below to catch any bubble over and potential drips.)

Remove lid or foil and sprinkle Parmesan cheese on top.

Heat oven to broil and carefully melt the cheese to toasty goodness. (Serves 4-6)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their three dogs ranch near Colome.

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Dipping into Spring

By Laura Johnson Andrews

The calendar says it’s spring in South Dakota, and I’m seeing signs that it might even be true. Baby goats are cavorting on my brother’s farm, there’s been a distinct increase in birdsong and I recently ate the first nibble of something fresh and green from my garden — a snippet of chives.

I love growing herbs, but other than sprinkling chopped chives into scrambled eggs and the unholy amount of pesto I consume once the basil gets going, I’m more apt to eat leaves straight off the plant than use them in dishes. Then I remembered my conversation with Rapid City cheesemaker Spencer Crawford for the March/April 2021 story”Our Goat Renaissance.” Crawford makes aged, washed-rind goat cheeses with milk from his small herd of Alpine dairy goats. He reminded me of a quick method for making a very basic cheese at home — one that pairs well with the bright flavors of herbs.

Take a jug of whole or 2 percent milk that’s nearing its expiration date, pour it into a heavy pan and heat to a simmer. Remove the pan from the heat, throw in something acidic (lemon juice, buttermilk or a glug of white vinegar) and let it sit for about 10 minutes. The milk should separate into small, fluffy curds and yellowish whey. If you’re Miss Muffet, you can enjoy that as is, but I empty the pot into a colander lined with coffee filters to let the whey drain out. Sometimes I weigh it down to expel more whey and create a firmer cheese that works well in curry. Unweighed, the cheese is similar to ricotta. It makes a great addition to pizza or pasta or you can whirl it into a smooth, herb-rich dip.

A simple homemade cheese and a snip of the garden’s first greens make a wonderfully fresh dip.

Green Goddess Dip

Adapted from Abra’s Kitchen

1–1 1/2 cups fresh cheese
1 clove of garlic, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup fresh herbs (chives, parsley, dill, tarragon and/or basil) or more, to taste

Roughly chop herbs. Use a hand blender or food processor to mix ingredients together until the dip is smooth and creamy, adding more olive oil if needed. Serve with crackers, fresh vegetables or whatever sounds good.