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Cream Can Cooking

While cookout fans fantasize about the latest in stainless steel grills and wood-fired smokers, a pair of Armour men discovered the secret to a party lies in a vintage cream can. Larry Wilson and Marty Bigge are the kings of cream can cooking in Douglas County. Using just a 10-gallon can and the burner for a turkey fryer, the men can turn a mixture of sausage and vegetables into a hearty meal that feeds 30.

“If you tell somebody you’re ‘having cream can,’ they’re over — right away,” Bigge said, as a crowd gathered one late summer evening to enjoy the last of the season’s fresh sweet corn.”It’s the best thing they ever ate.”

Cream canning is done by filling the 10-gallon can with fresh vegetables including sweet corn and smoked sausage. Water is added and the food is cooked atop an open flame. It has other benefits, in addition to being a taste-tempting meal.”It’s all good for you because it’s all steamed,” Wilson said. He and Bigge host cream can suppers to celebrate everything from a NASCAR race to class reunions or company picnics.

Bigge says that once someone has tasted cream can cooking, the next step is inevitable.”They want cream cans,” he said. Finding a vintage can requires some searching. Wilson acquired his from a brother-in-law, while Bigge purchased his when the local produce company went out of business.

“I think the best place to find a cream can is in a coffee shop, through conversation,” Wilson says. Estate auctions, flea markets and antique stores are also good places to search for cream cans.

Wilson and Bigge said the most important quality for a can is that it has no holes, so it holds water.”And you don’t want a real rusty one,” Bigge added.

While fresh sweet corn is the cornerstone of a good cream can cookout, Wilson and Bigge said they have hosted the suppers throughout the year.”We’ve done it in the winter time, but you’ve got to freeze the corn [during the summer],” Wilson said, admitting that frozen corn does not taste as good as fresh.

The two chefs also have a unique serving dish — a wooden trough lined with tinfoil to hold the steaming hot food from the cream can.”I heard some old-timers talk about how they used to do it,” Wilson said of the trough, which has a one and one-half inch slope and a hole to drain the cooking liquid.


Cream Can Supper

All you need to get started on your own cream can supper is a 10-gallon can and the burner mechanism for a turkey fryer. The vegetables and meat can be customized to please the crowd you’re feeding. Wilson and Bigge usually select an assortment of hearty vegetables and homemade sausage from the meat locker in Delmont. Bratwurst and chicken are also popular choices of experienced cream can cooks. The meal is cooked outdoors since the propane burner has an open flame.

30 ears of fresh sweet corn (or ears that were fresh-frozen during the summer)
30 potatoes, whole
4 large yellow onions, quartered
20 carrots, cut into large pieces
2 heads cabbage, cut into wedges
Any other vegetables such as cauliflower, green pepper or broccoli
8 rings sausage
Water to cover corn
Salt and pepper to taste

Start packing the cream can by standing the ears of corn on end in the bottom of the can. Add water to cover the corn. Some cream can cooks add a bottle or two of beer to the cooking liquid for extra flavor. Salt and pepper may be added to taste; however, if you’re using smoked sausage, the vegetables will absorb the flavor and not a lot of additional seasoning is necessary. Next, layer potatoes, onions, cabbage and other veggies on top of the corn. Wilson and Bigge use mesh bags like those found in the produce department of most grocery stores for the smaller vegetables to ease removal from the can, but tying the vegetables in cheesecloth will also work. Place sausage on top of vegetables, cover the can and light the burner. Total cooking time ranges from 45 minutes to an hour once the water boils and steam starts rising through the can. You will want to check the can after the food has steamed for about 30 minutes to ensure that it does not over-cook.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the May/June 2006 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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Knee-High by the Fourth of July

Recently, several errands have taken me back and forth across this great state, and during my drives, the fields bordering the roads have captured my attention. My eyes can’t help but take in the wonder of the quilt of the farmed landscape. Crops of wheat are turning golden, swaying in the wind and very close to harvest. A few much needed showers have produced purple alfalfa fields ready for a second cutting of hay and dotted with big round bales of the first. And, of course, there is the corn.

Those regal stalks have shot up with our current heat and humidity. In most places, the old adage of”knee-high by the Fourth of July” might only apply if you are the Jolly Green Giant. The crops look good to me. Beautifully green. Strong and tall. Lush and amazing.

Let’s hope Mother Nature provides the moisture we need to continue to nourish these awesome fields and produce a great crop. Personally, I can’t wait for the sweet corn. Our local crop is still a few weeks away, but a fresh, crisp salad is an incredible way to enjoy those sweet kernels. Tossed with smoky cumin, the tartness of lime, and the heat of radishes and jalapenos, anyone that is knee-high by the Fourth of July should love Fresh Corn and Radish Salad.


Fresh Corn and Radish Salad

(adapted from Food and Wine Magazine)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 small jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon agave syrup
1/4 teaspoon cumin
2 tablespoons olive oil (more or less…original recipe called for 1/4 cup, but I thought it was too much)
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 cups fresh sweet corn, cut from the cobs
6 medium radishes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped (cilantro would be a good flavor pairing, too)
1/4 small red onion, finely diced

Whisk together lime juice, jalapeno, agave, cumin and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, combine the corn, radishes, parsley, and red onion. Toss with the dressing. Season with additional salt and pepper, if needed. Best served at room temperature, and be warned that the radishes may bleed if the salad is dressed too far in advance of serving. Serves 4.

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and two dogs reside near Colome.

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South Dakota’s Corn Culture

Imagine South Dakota without corn. What would we feed our livestock? How would Mitchell decorate its Palace? Where would we hunt pheasants? What would farmers wear for caps?

Today we take for granted oceans of tasseled corn waving in the August breezes. We expect a local radio station to hold a “longest ear” or “tallest stalk” contest every September.

Corn, a leafy grass that gets little respect outside of agricultural circles, was ingrained into our prairie culture even before farm settlers arrived in the 19th century. Experts agree that the plant originated in Mexico or South America. As American Indians moved north, they brought along their seed corn.

When eastern farmers arrived in Dakota Territory, they assumed the growing season was too short for corn. The region was also considered borderline desert so annual rainfall was also a concern. At first it was planted as a sod crop.

“The summer the land was broken, there was little raised except sod corn and a few potatoes and vegetables,” according to Herbert S. Schell in History of South Dakota. “Indeed at times it was possible to raise a fair sod crop of corn from seed dropped in holes and chopped in with an axe.”

Corn farmers back then could only have dreamed of planting corn under today’s conditions: with a multi-row planter, sitting in an air-conditioned cab listening to the radio or talking on a cell phone, while simultaneously applying weed-deterring solutions. Most were lucky to have a horse, an ox or a plow – or to know a neighbor who did.

Though that made farming hot, dusty, hard work, many weren’t willing to trust amateurs at planting time because the family’s livelihood often depended on the crop. “Corn planting was the trickiest operation performed during the spring season, and many farmers insisted on doing it themselves, without the aid of hired men or family members,” according to Paula M. Nelson in The Prairie Winnows Out its Own.

Farmers stretched long rolls of wire from one end of the field to the other to establish rows and the proper distance between plants. “The wire contained knots every 40 inches, and when those knots passed through the planter mechanism, the machine dropped two or three seeds at the proper place in the row,” according to Nelson. At the end of the row the farmer would move the wire and begin again.

Precision was critical. “If the farmer worked carefully, kept the horses neatly in line, and set the trap door in the planter boxes correctly, the corn would grow in forty-inch intervals in each direction and could be cultivated lengthwise and crosswise.” Not many farmers today can boast such a feat.

Relying on the calendar told some farmers when it was time to plant corn and avoid frosts. Others planted when the leaves on hardwood trees were as large as a squirrel’s or mouse’s ear, or when they spotted the first bobolink or oriole, according to Funk & Wagnall’s Standard Dictionary of Folklore, Mythology and Legend. Some wouldn’t trust kernels to the earth until spotting a redheaded woodpecker, though. Farmers could follow the advice of a corn-planting rhyme if they weren’t sure how many kernels to plant:

One for the cut worm.
One for the crow
One for the blackbird
And three to grow.

Whether any of the old wives’ tales or advice worked is debatable, but something was making South Dakota corn grow. Soon the state became regarded as one of nation’s corn planting states.

“The skeptic on this question is no longer heard, and the man who would disdain South Dakota soil because of its inability to produce corn has been shown his error,” Clifford Willis, an agronomist, wrote in Corn, a 1909 report. “In fact, men who once scoffed are now buying South Dakota farms on which they expect to grow corn.”

In that year, 65.25 million bushels of corn were produced on 2,059,000 acres of South Dakota farmland. Willis said it averaged 31.7 bushels an acre but added, “We know that there are farmers who produced eighty and a hundred bushels to the acre. Someone must have produced a very low yield to so lower the average.”

Conditions were better in 1914, and the State Department of Immigration used corn to tempt sellers to South Dakota. A promotional booklet, Corn Is King in South Dakota, boasted farmers’ successes and the land’s abilities in addition to mentioning popular attractions like the Black Hills.

“The area devoted to corn is increasing rapidly and is extending to every nook and corner of the state, and yields of 40 to 50 bushels per acre are the common thing,” it read. Boast yields like that today and you’ll not only be blamed for lowering the state’s average but you might also find yourself laughed out of the local elevator’s coffee circle.

Maybe those early promoters weren’t so far off. Tourism officials are still using corn to attract visitors to one South Dakota city. Considering the number of visitors who pilgrimage to the city’s corn-covered palace each year, it appears to be working.

Mitchell’s corn-filled tradition began in 1892 when civic promoters decided to stage a harvest festival in a grain decorated building. Sioux City, Iowa, had been holding a similar event, first begun in 1887.

“However, when the fifth venture in 1891 was a financial failure, the backers decided to forego any future shows and it was then that the South Dakota town alertly seized the opportunity to capitalize on the Corn Palace theme,” Robert F. Karolevitz wrote in Challenge: The South Dakota Story.

Obviously, Mitchell is proud of its Corn Palace image. Many businesses have adopted “palace” as part of their names and the school’s athletic teams are known as the Kernels. And 500,000 people visit the palace, now at its third location, from Memorial Day to Labor Day each year.

Mitchell officials no longer question the power of corn. Neither did Delores Walter, a lifelong Howard farm wife, who wrote about rural living for the city’s Daily Republic newspaper. A bumper crop almost halted her wedding.

“In 1948, the corn crop was so abundant that we didn’t think we could take time off to get married. After all, a couple can get married any old time, but there will not always be a big corn crop to harvest,” Walter wrote in a Nov. 5, 1992, column. “But being practical and being in love doesn’t always go together. We were married November 6, 1948.”

Corn has played an equally important role for Elk Point’s Curry family members who have built their lives around corn. J.J. Curry began his Curry Seed Company with a 20-acre field in the 1930s. Today, over 3,000 acres are planted to seed corn within a 15-mile radius, and more and more farmers in the region are using their product.

J.J.’s son Ed, who led the family business when we spoke with him in 1997, said the development of hybrid seeds replaced the settlers’ practice of open pollinated corn and created increased yields. “In the Thirties, an 80 bushel crop was tremendous,” Curry said. “Now 180 bushels is obtainable, and certain test plots produce over 200 bushel yields.”

Technology has produced hundreds of corn hybrids, all varying in maturities to suit different needs. Curry research and testing has produced 20 varieties for the current market.

Advanced technology also allows seed corn to be harvested in half the time and to be dried mechanically with natural gas heat. Such improvements always come with a price, in this case it’s increased production costs.

That’s not enough to make Curry long for the days of hand picking, when harvesting 100 bushels in a day was a mark of achievement.

Though he doesn’t miss “the good old days,” he has tried to use the stories to cheer up young detasselers. Once on a hot day in wet conditions when the kids were really tired, he told them he had been detasseling corn since 1938.

It didn’t stir much encouragement. One little shaver looked at him and said, “You sure as heck haven’t gotten very far.”

Burton Ode, a farmer from Brandon, also remembered when corn was picked by hand. To help with the harvest, farmers hired transients who worked their way north following the grain harvest and then worked back south picking corn.

For their efforts, Ode recalled men earning first two cents and then 10 cents a bushel. Though horse-drawn corn pickers had arrived the 1920s and ’30s, they weren’t much better. “They were meager machines,” he told us in 1997. “It took a lot of horses to pull them.”

Then single and two-row pickers came in the late 1930s. “They were real good machines but no one could afford them.”

Finally, after World War II things boomed and mechanical pickers ruled until the late 1950s or early ë60s. That’s when Ode said an Illinois farmer decided there must be a way to use a combine for something other than grains. “He rigged up something in the front of the combine to make the corn run into it,” Ode said. “They really took off.”

Machines today are even more laborsaving. Gone are the days when farmers scraped the kernels from each cob. They no longer have to shell it by flailing it, driving oxen or horses across it, or by driving the ear through a metal ring with a mallet. Picking, husking and shelling can be done in one easy step now.

Eighty-five years after the Department of Immigration published its booklet, corn is still king in South Dakota. In 2010 farmers harvest 569.7 million bushels of corn, the state’s third largest crop on record.

How much corn is too much? That’s the million-dollar question every year in South Dakota. The largest percentage of the corn raised in South Dakota is used as livestock feed.

It’s hard to believe a little kernel of corn can do so much to critters but each kernel contains 61 percent starch, 19.2 percent protein and fiber, 3.8 percent oil and 16 percent water. Corn that isn’t used for animal feed is either exported or used to make co-products, all of the different products corn can be used in. That’s the fastest growing part of the industry.

One bushel of corn can yield 31.5 pounds of starch, 33 pounds of sweetener or 2.5 gallons of ethanol. You can also get 10.9 pounds of protein feed, 2.6 pounds of gluten meal or 1.6 pounds of corn oil.

Supermarket shelves hold more than 3,500 products that contain corn in some form – everything from detergents to crayons to batteries, sweeteners, soda pop, golf tees, road de-icer, trash bags and fuel in the form of ethanol, which is a multi-million dollar industry all of its own.

Corn can be grown almost anywhere, but because East River counties enjoy adequate rainfall, good soils and the necessary heat units, they tend to produce the most corn. Top producers in 2010 were Minnehaha, Spink, Brown, Moody, Lincoln, Hutchinson, Brookings, Union, Turner and Beadle counties, each topping 18 million bushels. Other counties such as Roberts, Kingsbury, Lake, McCook and Charles Mix, which produced around 17 million bushels, weren’t far behind.

Statistics show Harding, Perkins, Lawrence, Meade, Custer, Fall River and Jackson counties produced little or no corn that same year. Land west of the river tends to be better suited for rangeland, winter wheat or other small grains and sunflowers.

Early farmers didn’t have the benefit of that knowledge. “The earliest pioneers with any agricultural experience in their past were doomed by their ignorance of the new land since they were determined to practice the eastern forms of farming on the stubborn sod of Hand County,” Scott Heidepriem wrote in Bring on the Pioneers! History of Hand County.

They modified the methods after several failures after discovering eastern corn needed a longer growing season to avoid being nipped by September frost. Eventually, Hand County fanners and others turned to a shorter variety such as squaw corn.

The further west pioneers tried to grow corn the more difficult it became. “For farmers the west river country posed a riddle they had not yet been able to answer. Settlers had lived on the land for fifteen years or so by the 1920s, but farmers still learned mostly by trial and error what their land could produce,” according to Paula M. Nelson.

They kept trying even though they grew it profitably only every other year.

“Given the difficult environment, the commitment to corn is surprising, but corn was a versatile crop with many uses, and it also symbolized ‘the farm’ to west river residents ….”

It’s nice to know some things will never change. An unending sea of green leaves and golden tassels swaying in the breeze will always symbolize the farm to South Dakotans.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the July/August 1997 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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Sweet Corn



South Dakota boasts the world’s only Corn Palace, and that says something. We like corn, especially sweet corn. It could be said that “visions of sweet corn dance in our heads.”

In our July/August 2008 issue, we wrote about Mark and Jane Moore of Valley Springs who traveled to various fairs and festivals across the state selling sweet corn. Their concessions trailer (called Marc O’s) can be found at Jazzfest, Brookings’ Summer Arts Festival, Riverboat Days and the State Fair.

Roasting sweet corn is a summer avocation for Mark and Jane Moore. Mark told us South Dakota sweet corn is the best. “It’s so sweet you could sweeten your coffee with it,” he said.

Mark told us that most of his customers are women. “It’s probably because they don’t have to shuck it or cook it,” he says. He might be joking, but he does remember that a young lady ate 14 ears of corn at Yankton’s Riverboat Days.

But she couldn’t hold a candle to Edward Kottwitz, a Grant County farmer who became South Dakota’s own World Corn Eating Champion. He won the title in 1933 by eating 37 ears, one for every year of his life.

Kottwitz defeated 10 other finalists at a Sweet Corn Festival held just across the South Dakota border in Ortonville, Minn. “I probably could have eaten more if I had to,” he said. “You see, I had, only a short time before, eaten 10 ears at the free corn dinner and it took the edge off my appetite.”

Inspired by the Moores’ (and Kottwitz’s) love of sweet corn, we tried grilling some here at the office. On the first attempt, we placed the corn directly on the grill, just like it came from the field, husks and all. Unfortunately, most of the kernels burned. We tried it again. Here is the technique we used with more success.

Grilling Sweet Corn

1. Peel back the outer layer of husks, but leave them attached at the base of the ear.

2. Remove the silk and the inner layers of husk.

3. Rinse the ear of corn well in cold water.

4. Fold the remaining husks back over the corn.

5. Soak the ears of corn well in cold water.

6. Spread plain or seasoned butter over the corn kernels, under the husk. (Optional).

7. Grill over medium low heat for 20-30 minutes, turning occasionally.

8. Let cool for 5-10 minutes. Remove husks. Enjoy!