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Pizza at Kate’s Cottage

Guests at Kate’s Cottage of rural Beresford enjoy good conversation and homemade pizza, courtesy of hosts Gaylan and Gale Gors and their wood-fired pizza oven.

Guests at Kate’s Cottage, a cozy bed and breakfast southwest of Beresford, enjoy a tranquil setting, a menagerie of animals and, if they’re lucky, wood-fired pizza baked in a handmade outdoor oven.”It’s a great way to eat,” says owner Gale Gors.”You eat much more slowly, you drink a beer and you talk. Twenty minutes later you have another one.”

Gale and her husband Gaylan first encountered an outdoor pizza oven while on a surprise trip to Santa Fe for Gaylan’s 60th birthday.”I looked at it and said, ‘I can build one,'” Gaylan remembers. He, Gale and Gale’s son Alex Monson worked together, doing research, drawing plans and laying brick. Monson, who operates AMC Concrete, formed the domed interior of the oven using refractory concrete containing perlite, which acts as an insulator. The DIY effort was not without its trials; on the oven’s inaugural firing, the chimney melted.”We just stood there and watched it droop,” Gaylan says.

The oven is built into an old grove on the Peterson farm, which has been in Gale’s family for almost 130 years. On pleasant summer nights, the Gorses invite visitors to join them at a table made from the grove’s wood to indulge in fresh pizza and easygoing conversation.

Kate’s Cottage was built in the 1930s, but stood empty for decades after Gale’s aunt, Verna Peterson, died in the early 1960s. Gale planned to tear it down, but in the end, she just couldn’t.”I took off one piece of trim and thought, ‘This is stupid.'” Restoring the tiny one-bedroom home was a three-year process, done in stages as Gale saved money from her work at Integrative Wellness, a mental health counseling service in Sioux Falls. The first guests arrived in 2015.

The peaceful farm getaway is made livelier by the menagerie — inquisitive Flo the dog; unpredictable Bat Cat; Earle, Charlie and Pete the goats; and a flock of Barred Rocks and Rhode Island Reds presided over by an obstinate Crested Polish rooster named The Bouncer.

Depending on wind and weather, it can take 30 to 60 minutes to heat the oven to Gaylan’s preferred pizza-baking temperature of 600 to 650 degrees. The oven is fueled with pine, which burns hot, smells nice and doesn’t affect the flavor. Sauces and dough are all homemade, and topping possibilities are endless. They’ve tried taco pizza, pulled pork and artichokes, and clams and white sauce, but the favorite might be the classic margherita.”A good white sauce, fresh basil and fresh tomatoes — you just can’t beat that,” Gale says.


A classic margherita is a favorite of the Gorses.

Basic New York-Style Pizza Dough

from http://www.SeriousEats.com

22.5 ounces (about 4 1/2 cups) bread flour, plus more for dusting

0.5 ounces (about 1 1/2 tablespoons) sugar

0.35 ounces (about 1 tablespoon) kosher salt

0.35 ounces (about 2 teaspoons) instant yeast

1.125 ounces (about 3 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil

15 ounces lukewarm water

Combine flour, sugar, salt and yeast in bowl of food processor. Pulse 3–4 times until incorporated. Add olive oil and water. Run food processor until mixture forms ball that rides around the bowl above the blade, about 15 seconds. Continue processing 15 seconds longer.

Transfer dough ball to a lightly floured surface and knead once or twice by hand until a smooth ball is formed. Divide dough evenly into three parts and place each in a covered quart-sized container or a zipper-lock freezer bag. Place in refrigerator and allow to rise at least one day, and up to five. Remove from refrigerator, shape into balls and allow to rest at room temperature for at least two hours before baking.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the May/June 2021 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Soap That’s Good For You

Erin Nelson of Beresford has always been health-conscious, striving to use products free from chemicals and impurities.”It’s made a huge difference in how my body and skin feels,” she says. When Nelson couldn’t find soap that fit her lifestyle in local stores, she started making her own.”I decided people have been making it for hundreds of years and I just wanted to know how,” she explains.

Nelson started her Irish Twins Soap Company in 2009. She hand stirs and pours more than 35 types of bar soaps in her downtown shop, including varieties for acne, psoriasis and eczema. Many contain French and Moroccan clays, and her Dakota Gunsmoke contains activated charcoal.”The clays pull toxins out of your skin and activated charcoal does too,” she explains.

Along with artisan bar soaps, Nelson makes soy wax candles, bath and body products and household cleaners. And she’s fussy about ingredient quality, using honey, beeswax, goat’s milk, herbs and botanicals from local farms.

This story is revised from the July/August 2017 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Stella’s Paint

Amy Farley and Carrie Jenson are veteran furniture flippers. The two have been restoring pieces for over a decade, but when it came to painting their finished products, they were never quite satisfied. So in the summer of 2014, Farley and Jenson began experimenting. Their resulting line called Stella’s Paint has become a favorite for do-it-yourselfers around the Upper Midwest.

They started by simply going to Olson’s Ace Hardware in Beresford. They explained their vision for a high-quality, affordable paint and began mixing different bases and additives in their Beresford studio.”It took all summer to find the right combination so it wasn’t too clumpy, thin or chalky,” Farley says. The result is an extra flat paint that’s quick drying, adheres well to wood and is easy to sand for a more distressed look.

Stella’s Paint now comes in 20 colors, each named for a woman important in their lives (beginning with Stella, Jenson’s grandmother). Hues are added depending on current color trends (last summer brought a new charcoal gray). Their paint is available through 11 vendors in the Dakotas, Nebraska and Iowa.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the November/December 2016 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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History Lives in Union County

A granite block marks the spot of old Fort Brule in Union County.

It’s hard not to bump into history when you visit Union County in the far southeastern tip of South Dakota. It’s among the oldest counties in the state, one of 10 created by the first territorial legislature in 1862. It was originally called Cole County after Austin Cole, a member of that legislature, but strong Union Army sentiment during the Civil War led to the name change two years later when its boundaries were redrawn.

The military played a role in the early years of Union County. The Sioux City to Fort Randall Military Trail was put into use in 1859, and crossed into present-day South Dakota at Jefferson near a railroad bridge that spans the Big Sioux River, which serves as Union County’s eastern border. Though the trail itself has all but vanished, important stops can still be found between Jefferson and Elk Point along Highway 1B. Twelve Mile House, so named because it lies that distance from Sioux City, was a post office and stage stop as far back as 1861. The structure still stands, though it is unoccupied and deteriorating. Just 2 miles away is Fourteen Mile House, a log house built in 1861 by Frenchman Frances Reandeau whose name was carved on one of the logs. Originally a post office and hotel, it has been modernized and resided, and serves as a private residence today.

History seekers can head 5 miles north of Elk Point on Highway 11 to the junction with Highway 50, another important site in Union County and South Dakota history. St. Paul Lutheran Church, built in 1863 and the first Lutheran church in the Dakotas, stands 1 mile west. Less than a mile to the east is the site of old Fort Brule, built in 1862 following the Dakota Uprising in Minnesota. Finally, just a half-mile north is a memorial to Norwegian novelist Ole Rolvaag, the author of Giants in the Earth who worked as a farmhand in Union County after his emigration in 1896.

The 14-mile house is one of several points of interest along the old Sioux City to Fort Randall military trail.

There are also historic places in Elk Point, such as Edgar’s Soda Fountain inside Pioneer Drug. Kevin and Barb Wurtz have been serving ice cream sodas, sundaes, phosphates and other old fashioned treats there for 25 years. The soda fountain made its debut in Centerville in 1906, where it served up ice cream at the local drugstore for nearly 50 years. When pharmacist Edgar Schmiedt, Barb’s grandfather, retired in the 1960s, he put the old fountain in storage. He gave it to Barb and Kevin, and in appreciation they named their Elk Point store in his honor.

Farther south at Jefferson, you’ll find tangible historic reminders of the strong faith that Dakota homesteaders possessed. Grasshopper swarms destroyed thousands of acres of crops in the 1870s and not only ruined farmers but also entire towns. Father Pierre Boucher was determined that town of Jefferson would not meet the same fate. He announced during Mass one Sunday in the spring of 1876 that he intended to lead a spiritual retreat to rid the territory of grasshoppers. The next morning, Protestants and Catholics alike met 2 miles south of Jefferson. Bearing a cross, Boucher led the group on an 11-mile pilgrimage. They placed crosses at four points, plus another in the cemetery at Jefferson. Not long after, dead grasshoppers were found near the Big Sioux and Missouri rivers.

Edgar’s Soda Fountain serves ice cream and other cold treats.

The old wooden cross in town stood until decay finally claimed it. A replacement was built in 1967, and can still be seen outside St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Other crosses are found 4 miles northwest of Jefferson on County Road 1B near the Southeast Farmers Coop Elevator and another is near the corner of 330th Street and 480th Avenue west of Jefferson.

The Adams Homestead and Nature Preserve in the very southern part of the county mixes history with outdoor adventure. Stephen Adams homesteaded on the property in 1872. His granddaughters, Mary and Maud Adams, donated the 1,500 acres to the state in 1984, wanting to create a peaceful place where visitors could recharge. In addition to its restored homestead buildings, the acreage includes 10 miles of trails that wind through prairie, stately stands of old cottonwoods and along the Missouri River valley.

The tiny hamlet of Nora was never a big town, but its historic general store draws hundreds of people during the holidays. Mike Pedersen set up an old pipe organ in the store in 1989, and hosted a party for the neighbors. People have come ever since for his holiday sing-alongs held the three weekends after Thanksgiving.

The original grasshopper crosses were erected in 1874 in a faithful attempt to ward off the insects. Replicas stand in Union County today.

The Nora store officially closed in 1962. Pedersen lived in the back room from 1973 to 1985 while seed corn was stored up front. He now lives in the storekeeper’s house next door. On sing-along weekends, Pedersen plays the organ and leads carols at the top of his lungs. Neighbor women bring cookies, and Pedersen makes coffee and cider. Guests select the tunes, Pedersen plays them, and when his fingers get tired he makes room for somebody else.

The town of Alcester also has a musical connection to South Dakota history. DeeCort Hammitt was a teller at the Alcester State Bank in the 1920s, but his real love was music. He led the Alcester Town Band, which entertained President Calvin Coolidge during his summer vacation at Custer State Park in 1927. They went to the Chicago World’s Fair in 1933 and 1934 as the official agricultural band. He wrote and published many songs, including “To a Prairie Lullaby” for Lawrence Welk, who often played at The Ritz, a dance hall near Beresford, in the 1940s. But Hammitt is best remembered for composing South Dakota’s official state song, “Hail South Dakota,” in 1943.

Thousands of cars zoom through Union County every day on Interstate 29. But it’s worth it to get off the interstate and spend a day driving the rural roads, because Union County packs a lot of history into 467 square miles.

Editor’s Note: This is the 28th installment in an ongoing series featuring South Dakota’s 66 counties. Click here for previous articles.

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Looking Up

Minimal light pollution in South Dakota allows stargazers to clearly see the Milky Way among thousands of stars. Photo by Christian Begeman.

The night heavens have been a source of mystery and intrigue for millenia. The darkness, and what it contained, puzzled even the most brilliant Greek philosophers.”Astronomy?” uttered Sophocles in about 420 B.C.”Impossible to understand and madness to investigate.” But the last 2,500 years have given us rockets and rovers to explore distant planets, cameras that float to the outer reaches of our solar system and high-powered telescopes that allow us to see the faintest galaxies hundreds of thousands of light years away.

Stars, planets and other celestial bodies have fascinated me since I was 7, when an aunt and uncle gave me an astronomy book and a star wheel that showed various constellations in different seasons. I struggled with a tiny telescope to find the images I saw in the book. But beyond the Big Dipper, Orion the Hunter and other painfully obvious constellations, the results were disappointing.

Until last summer, the closest I had come to real stargazing was when a group of friends and I sat in the middle of a Hamlin County pasture with a case of beer on a cool, late autumn evening. I remember pointing out the Seven Sisters, the only name I knew at the time for the Pleiades, a blurry cluster of stars named for Greek mythological characters. My Coors consuming friends were not impressed.

Perhaps they didn’t realize that we were peering into some of the darkest skies found in North America. In 2001 well-known astronomer John Bortle compiled his Bortle Dark-Sky Scale. Its nine categories measure the level of darkness found in the sky. A color-coded map of the United States begins with black (the darkest skies) and ends with white, which represents inner-city sky. The eastern half of the country looks like a child’s finger painting. Blobs of bright green, yellow, orange, red and white dominate. But a line cuts the country in half, roughly along Interstate 29, where the bright colors abruptly end. Much of South Dakota is plunged into dark blues, purples and an inky dab of black over the Badlands.

On a typical evening, a glowing orange dome created by thousands of artificial lights encases Sioux Falls. But just 30 miles away you can clearly spot the Milky Way. I was amazed at its clarity when I attended the South Dakota Star Party at Hodgson’s Observatory 6 miles southeast of Beresford.

Richard Hodgson hosts an annual stargazing party as his farm near Beresford.

Richard Hodgson taught astronomy and planetary science at Dordt College in Sioux Center, Iowa for 30 years before retiring in 2002. He and his wife Nancy, a retired professor of archaeology at the University of South Dakota, bought their Union County farm roughly halfway between their respective schools in 1994 to create an observatory and host public gatherings.

“The Milky Way is just beautiful from this property,” Hodgson says.”It’s surrounded by bottomland which is farmed but not built on for a mile in various directions. It’s kind of like an island in the prairie. For eastern South Dakota it’s one of the better places to be.”

The Hodgsons began construction on the observatory buildings in 2003. The newest addition is the astrolodge, a small white classroom just south of their home where students and visitors first meet when touring the observatory. They get an introduction to the solar system through maps and a scale drawing. Another boxy building just four feet tall with a retractable roof houses a telescope used for solar observation. But the centerpiece is Hodgson’s 25-inch Obsession telescope (25 inches refers to the diameter of the mirror). It’s the second-largest telescope in South Dakota. Only Ron Dyvig’s 26-inch scope at his Badlands Observatory in Quinn, 6 miles east of Wall, is bigger.

Dyvig turned the tiny town’s abandoned hospital into an observatory in 2000. For years he was an avid asteroid hunter, searching outer space for Near Earth Objects on a potential collision course with Earth. During his research, he discovered 25 new asteroids in the main belt between Mars and Jupiter and three binary asteroids with small moons.

Today Dyvig’s telescope can be remotely controlled over the Internet. He’s helped students at the University of North Dakota earn master’s degrees by studying the universe through his scope. He also hopes to work with students at the University of South Dakota, South Dakota State University and the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology on a new research program involving supernovas.

South Dakota’s Badlands feature some of the darkest skies in the nation. Photo by Christian Begeman.

Another representation of the solar system at Hodgson’s Observatory follows a fenceline on the southern edge of the property. This scale model is 610 feet long (one of the largest scale representations of the solar system in North America) and includes plaques noting important objects.”We pick out things that are historically important, or unusual, or quite large and command some attention,” Hodgson says.”You can’t include everything in the solar system.”

Hodgson speaks with pride as we walk along the model, particularly when we arrive at 243 Ida, an asteroid whose orbit lies between Mars and Jupiter. In 1993 as the Galileo spacecraft snapped photos on its way to Jupiter, it discovered a tiny moon, later named Dactyl, orbiting the asteroid. The discovery justified research Hodgson conducted 40 years ago.”I’d advocated the idea back in the early 1970s, that some asteroids might have satellites, and this was laughed at by the scientific community,” he says.”By the late ’70s there were a few others who thought it may be possible. But I was quite pleased that Ida came through for me.”

The late August morning dawned cloudy and rainy, but by noon the sun emerged. Amateur astronomers sweated through T-shirts as they assembled telescopes on three acres of grass that Hodgson cuts for members of the Sioux Empire Astronomy Club. John Johnson’s pickup was backed to a slab of concrete poured just for him. He was putting together his 20-inch Obsession telescope, the second-largest in use for that evening’s star party.”It’s a hobby, but some of us go a little crazier than others,” Johnson says.”I tell people that’s my Harley Davidson. I can put 350 billion light years on it and not even have to change the oil.”

John Johnson is a regular at Hodgson’s star parties. There’s even a slab of cement there for his telescope.

Johnson works at Tendaire Industries in Beresford. He caught the stargazing bug 12 years ago.”When I was a kid I had a little toy refractor that was junk,” Johnson said. I could relate.”One day in 2000 I was walking through a pawn shop and saw a nice little box. It was a 60 mm refractor with all the eyepieces and the tripod. I bought it for $45, set it up in the backyard that night and pointed it at the brightest thing I could see. It happened to be Saturn, and I almost fell over. That was it. I had the fever.”

Next came a 4.5-inch refractor. Then a 6-inch. Then 8 and 10.”They call it aperture fever,” he says.”The more and more aperture you get, the more you see.”

Visitors arrived as dusk settled over the observatory, driving into the farmyard with headlights extinguished, which is proper stargazing etiquette. Hodgson began the night with a video in the astrolodge. Then attendees rotated among the dozen telescopes, guided by red filtered lights that illuminated the ground but did not hamper night vision.

The scopes were trained on star clusters, planetary nebula, comets and galaxies millions of light years away. The Andromeda galaxy, at 2.5 million light years from Earth, is about the farthest you can see with the naked eye. It was clearly visible, but even more spectacular through the scope. We observed the faint blues of the Crab Nebula and the bright green of the Dumbbell Nebula. Just before 10 p.m., the International Space Station cruised overhead. It was visible for about 90 seconds before disappearing in the eastern sky. Visitors left around midnight and club members were left to do their own observing until sunrise.

Thousands of stars were visible with the naked eye alone from Hodgson’s Observatory, but there’s even less light pollution west of the Missouri River.”I can tell you that South Dakota, if they had a ranking system [for states with the darkest skies], would rank quite high because we just don’t have light pollution at all compared to the rest of the country,” says Dyvig, the Quinn astronomer.

Conditions are even favorable on the outskirts of Rapid City, our largest West River metropolitan area.”We have, on average, 280 to 300 clear days every year, so we probably have better sky conditions than 95 percent of the rest of the country,” says Steve Parker, director of the Hidden Valley Observatory, headquarters for the Black Hills Astronomy Club, on the northwest edge of Rapid City.

But South Dakota’s very darkest skies are found over the Badlands. Stargazers may see a faint glow from a small town or the light from a ranch, but on a moonless night you can see up to 7,500 stars with the naked eye.”For people coming from big cities, it might be the first time they’ve ever seen the Milky Way before,” says Aaron Kaye, a supervisory park ranger at Badlands National Park.”On rare occasions, maybe 12 times in the 13 years I’ve been here, you can see the Aurora borealis. No promises, but we are far enough north that if the event is big enough we can see it.”

Stargazing is a hobby anyone can enjoy, especially in South Dakota, where light pollution remains minimal. And you don’t have to spend thousands on a telescope. It turns out, standing in a field with a guidebook works just as well. Either way, take time to look up. You’ll find that stars millions of light years away have never seemed so bright.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the March/April 2012 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.