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West River Autumn

September usually signals the end of hot summer weather in South Dakota, but this year things have been warmer than usual. The dry and dusty days of late September reminded me of the hot and dry summers of my youth growing up along the Ziebach and Dewey County line. The only difference was a lot more grasshoppers back then and these days I pack a camera any time I’m back in West River country. Such was the case when I took a much-needed vacation to the Badlands and Black Hills the last week of September.

Over the years, I’ve discovered that as amazing as these locations are, it is in the golden and blue hours when magic happens. For those of you wondering, the golden hour is the hour before sunset and after sunrise. The blue hour is the time after the sun sets or before it rises when the sky is not fully dark. These are the times that wildlife is most active, particularly when the day is going to be baked with a side of gritty wind.

Since daylight shortens in late September, there is also more night. In the Badlands and more remote parts of the Black Hills, added darkness is a boon to stargazers and amateur astrophotographers. The Milky Way can be observed as a near vertical shaft of distant starlight in the southern sky about an hour and a half after dark in late September. As the night wanes, the Milky Way slides westward and slowly sets. This year, I finally attempted a Milky Way composition I’ve been wanting to do for about a decade. I wanted to align the Milky Way with the Needles Eye in Custer State Park. With clear weather, this was the year to give it a try. At elevation, the hot air of the day cooled as the evening deepened. The wind died except for an occasional vehicle passing by and I soon became alone with the stones and stars. It’s hard to explain that feeling, and photos can’t do it justice.

Late September also brings out the first blush of autumn’s color, particularly in the high draws and high country. Spearfish Canyon is a national scenic byway, and early fall is among the best times to take the drive. Further up and into rural Lawrence County, even more beauty can be found with stands of aspen and birch glowing in the sunlight. And there are fewer tourists and dust clouds along the county roads to boot.

I spent my last few days in Custer State Park just after the big annual buffalo roundup. Call me anti-social if you want, but I prefer the quiet parts of that park and adjacent Wind Cave National Park. I did stumble on quite a scene, thanks to the roundup. While traveling the Wildlife Loop Road, a scene that could have been taken from centuries ago revealed itself as I approached the bison corrals. The trees of Lame Johnny Creek were showing off their autumn color and scattered beyond on the receding hills was a portion of the big bison herd grazing peacefully. Moments like this are what keep me coming back to this part of the world when the seasons change.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midco he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Ten Outdoor Adventures in South Dakota

Where do your outdoor skills and experiences rank in the wild woods, waters and prairies of South Dakota? Do you know the lay of the land? Can you find wild mushrooms? Have you ever seen a gray kneebobber, or the holey rocks of Roberts County? Here are 10 popular activities to help you break the cabin fever of a long winter and enjoy the South Dakota outdoors.

1. BEFRIEND THE MONARCH

Monarch butterflies rank among South Dakota’s most interesting creatures. A butterfly typically hatches here in August, and then as autumn arrives it flies 2,500 miles southward to the Oyamel fir forests where it will hibernate through the winter, often in the same trees as its ancestors. When it reawakens and flies north in the spring it lays eggs, which dramatically shortens its lifespan. Soon it dies. The process repeats itself as the butterflies travel northward. Monarchs that arrive in South Dakota around Mother’s Day are the fourth-generation descendants of those that departed the previous fall.

2. PONDER THE HOLEY ROCKS

One of South Dakota’s great and unresolved mysteries is the”holey rocks” of Roberts County. All of northeast South Dakota is rocky, thanks to glaciers that brought the rocks here 10,000-plus years ago. Some of the biggest boulders have holes about as wide as a quarter. A geologic detective documented 57 such stones in the early years of the 21st century, though there are probably many more. They are not limited to Roberts County. Some have also been discovered in Minnesota and other northern states. One theory is that the stone holes were chiseled as guideposts by Viking explorers who traveled here from Hudson Bay in medieval times, although it requires a rewrite of immigration history.

3. HIKE BUFFALO TRAILS

First, let’s be very clear. We are not suggesting that any of our paying readers should ever intentionally walk near a wild buffalo — unless they can run faster than a horse (because a buffalo can). The big brown galoots have been clocked at 40 mph. Still, it’s a fact that some very cool outdoor trails exist on popular buffalo reserves. Samuel G. Ordway Nature Preserve in northern South Dakota has hiking trails and a buffalo herd, but there’s a fence in between. Wind Cave in the southern Black Hills has 30 miles of hiking trails, and you share the terrain with a herd of 400 bison. Badlands National Park has an”open hike” policy, and that goes for humans and the park’s buffalo so it’s up to the former to be smart. They say if the buffalo notices you then you’re too close … and it may be too late.

4. MUSHROOM HUNTING

South Dakota has many edible mushrooms, but the morel is king. Though the season changes throughout the state, morels are usually found from early April to early May. The best habitat is a moist forest floor, especially near rivers, lakes and swamps. Morels, which only grow in the wild, are difficult to find because they blend into spring’s grassy-brown environment. Look for yellow or tan mushrooms with spongy caps but beware of the false”brain” mushroom. It is toxic. True morels have a honeycomb cap and hollow stems, while false morels are solid. Don’t pull a morel from the ground because it is connected by a hypha to other mushrooms that may soon emerge. Just snip or pinch.

5. STARGAZING

South Dakota has less light pollution than most states, so we should all be amateur stargazers. Badlands National Park is the most enchanting place to watch the stars; park officials offer a Night Sky Program on weekend evenings through the summer. However, rural areas across the state — even in more populated East River — are conducive to seeing the Milky Way and other mysteries of the heavens.

6. GROW A TREE

Statistically-speaking, South Dakota is 4 percent forested. The trouble with statistics is that 99 percent of our approximately 601 million trees are in the Black Hills. Much of our prairie country looks like the aftermath of an immensely successful deforestation program. It’s not that South Dakotans aren’t trying. We once visited a West River ranch and saw a spindly elm tree trying to grow from a crack along the concrete foundation of small barn.”Shouldn’t we pull that out before it widens the crack?” asked our writer. The rancher was horrified.”I’d move the barn before I’d kill that tree!” he exclaimed. Want to do something good for South Dakota’s outdoors? Go plant a tree (or at least leave them alone).

7. PASQUE WATCH

South Dakota’s state flower is the prairie pasque, Pulsatilla patens, a tough and dainty flower that blooms briefly at the first sign of spring. Though it grows throughout the state, many South Dakotans have not seen one in the wild because it blooms so briefly and because it survives best in rugged, natural terrain. The best habitat is north-facing slopes, and the ideal time is just as the snow melts in early April. Finding a patch is a visual treat. For a real challenge, try transplanting a pasque to your garden. Its long roots, developed to survive drought, make it nigh impossible. You’ll have better luck harvesting its seeds, though even that is difficult. It is truly a wild flower, a fitting symbol of springtime in South Dakota.

8. SPOT THE DIPPER

Thirty years ago, a Minnesota birdwatcher alerted South Dakota Magazine that while fishing on Little Spearfish Creek he witnessed a slate-colored bird that could walk under water. He said he reported it at the nearest pool hall, where everyone laughed at his story. They called it a gray kneebobber.”Probably huntin’ for mountain oysters,” laughed one of the locals. Our Minnesota reader later discovered that it was the endangered American dipper, and fortunately the aquatic songbird can still be found in Spearfish and Whitewood creeks in the Northern Hills. Have you seen a dipper and been reluctant to tell anyone for fear of ridicule?

9. TRY SPELUNKING

Even though the Black Hills is home to more than 100 known caves, including several of the world’s longest, spelunking hasn’t caught on like downhill skiing, pheasant hunting or even watching paint dry. Something about the fear of crawling on your belly in the dark through tight canyons shared by bats doesn’t resonate with the outdoors crowd. But add the experience to your bucket list. Wind Cave and Jewel Cave are run by the National Park Service and offer fascinating guided tours, as do several private caves. The names of the passages in Jewel Cave suggest what you’re missing: the Promised Land, the Mind Blower, Boondocks, Wildflower Walk and Spooky Hollow.

10. FIND A FAIRBURN AGATE

South Dakota is heaven for rockhounds, and the Fairburn agate is prized. The state’s official gemstone was first hunted in the moon-like Kern agate beds east of Fairburn in Custer County, but it can also be found in Teepee Canyon west of Custer and elsewhere West River. People have even discovered them mixed with landscape rock and fill material taken from pits near the Cheyenne River. Serious rock hunters have spent days and even weeks searching for Fairburns with no luck, so consider yourself fortunate if you spot even one.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the”South Dakota Outdoor Challenge,” which appeared in the March/April 2023 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Under the Lights

It was March 23, a Thursday. The first game of the NCAA men’s Sweet 16 had tipped. I was coming off a late winter sick spell. I hadn’t been sick at all during the winter, so when this one hit it felt like making up for lost ground. I missed work, and then worked from home for a solid week. This is not normal operating procedure for me. But back to Thursday night.

I’ve developed a habit over the last half dozen years. I check up to three web sites for what is called”space weather” forecasts. These sites try to predict when Aurora Borealis events could take place based on solar activity and Earth’s magnetic shield. It is a relatively new science and like our regular weather prognosticators, the predictions are not always accurate. Even so, when a storm hits, these sites are very good at reporting the activity as well as the intensity. This is why I make it a habit to look at what is going on. I’ve found that nothing brings visual amazement quite like the dancing northern lights on a clear South Dakota night.

One such geomagnetic storm struck on that Thursday night, and it was totally unexpected. About an hour and a half before sunset the storm had kicked in and the prediction centers were saying that it could last through the night. That information was all it took for me to shut off the TV, get my gear and go find an adequate place to capture the northern lights.

I drove to a favorite country church in Miner County called Belleview Lutheran. The steeple stands straight and tall and the building is elegant even though the church is no longer in use. As the sky darkened, I began to make out the pale green arc of light to the north. I set up a camera on a tripod to start taking long exposure photos in a series, hoping to end up with an interesting time lapse. Once set up, I texted my family as well as another space weather fan and was surprised to see that the lights were now bright enough for my smartphone’s camera to capture. This was a good omen.

My next destination was Esmond, a near-ghost town about 20 minutes from Belleview Lutheran in Kingsbury County. Two grain elevators stand on the northeast edge of town. As soon as I arrived and set up my camera, the sky pulsed with some of the best northern lights activity I’ve ever seen. At one point the whole northern sky was alive with faint greens, pinks and purples. Light pillars moved from right to left and the snow on the ground helped reflect the light, so it was easy to see even though the crescent moon had set.

Later, I learned that the geomagnetic storm had reached”severe” levels for a short time. The northern lights were seen as far south as New Mexico. I could have stayed out all night, but I had to work on Friday, so I packed up and headed back to Sioux Falls. It was a night I won’t soon forget.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midco he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Embracing Darkness

The days of darkness are here. No, that is not an ancient prophecy now come true. Nor is it some scare tactic about the state of the world. It is simply the time of the year when I leave for work in the gloaming and return in the dark. As we head into winter once again and the daylight shortens, one may think that finding good photo opportunities diminishes with the light, but that is not entirely true.

I first notice the shortened days in early autumn. My custom is to take a fall colors trip West River and I’m always a bit surprised how soon the sun sets in the first days of October compared to the usual long days of summer when I typically visit places like Custer State Park and the Badlands. This year I wasn’t ready to quit making photographs when the sun set, so I set out to try something new. I tried to find interesting roads with curves in the respective parks and then set up my tripod for long exposures and waited for the day to dim.

My interest in night photography has always been strong. The problem is that as I get older, the more I loathe giving up sleep. Last summer, something happened in the northern sky that renewed my willingness to overcome the loss of sleep and make images in the small hours of the night. Comet NeoWise graced the sky for a few short weeks in July. With that celestial object, my night photography interest was renewed. Fast forward to late February 2021 and you would have found me taking long exposure sequences of Sioux Falls city scenes to make short time-lapse videos for Midco Sports coverage of the NSIC and Summit League basketball tournaments. A long exposure (anything longer than a couple seconds) at night allows you to capture moving cars with the headlights as streaks of light.

I wanted to try this same concept in the parks this fall. The goal was to find interesting stretches of road with passing cars and shoot them at dusk to create unique images. It was a learning experience, as I discovered that a strong night breeze plays havoc with a long lens even when it is on a tripod. If you look closely at the image of the Big Foot Pass road at Badlands National Park, you’ll notice the taillight lines are not smooth. Wind on my lens caused this, not crazy driving. I also tried this technique along Needles Highway and Spearfish Canyon National Byway. My favorite image is from the canyon. A small white tour bus came by, and with its lights positioned higher, gave an added vertical element to the streaks.

One last note about shooting night scenes in winter. With the air turning colder, the normal humidity and dust particles in the air are reduced, so the stars are seen more clearly. Add in the fact that the solar cycle is turning active again and there are new possibilities for glimpsing (and photographing) the elusive northern lights while gazing out and up into the night.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midco he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Dakota Skies

The Milky Way can easily be seen in rural South Dakota, where light pollution is minimal. Photo by Eric Sprecher

Earth-orbiting satellite photos taken at night show huge blotches of light covering vast regions of the United States from coast to coast with illumination. So it isn’t difficult to understand why the places are growing fewer and fewer in our turbulent society where one may find sanctuary in some private, treasured spot uninvaded by diffused light. Fortunately, here in South Dakota — and generally in the Northern Plains — such spots are still abundant, and we may still enjoy such things as the subtle colors of dusk where the marriage of light and darkness produce the offspring of quiet beauty and peace.

Also, many of us in the plains region live where we have uninterrupted views of most horizons. If I want to see the Big Dipper to determine clock-time or the date by observing the position of the dipper’s handle, I can walk a few yards from my front door in rural Howard and there it is, hovering high over the northeast horizon in mid-March. If I want to see where the morning sun’s latest rising position has shifted to the eastern horizon as it moves steadily toward the north from its stay in the tropics, I can peer out of my front window. Where I have lived in the past, structures would block the view, or I would have to travel quite a distance to see such things and most often, the skies would be too hazy and the stars too faint except on very unusual evenings when clarity overrode the obscurity.

So I can assure you that when we moved back to South Dakota from Iowa we were awestruck by the unobstructed skies and amazed by the apparent indifference of many who live here and take our skies and stars for granted. A beautiful sunrise or sunset was just something one assumed because it is nearly always there. Nor was a star-studded sky regarded as unusual. Curiously, it is when we don’t have something that we appreciate it the most, but when it is available to us at any time we tend to disregard its value. It is true that other states in the Midwest may also have marvelous vistas of their skies, but differences in populations and area make a crucial difference in perception. For instance, in land area South Dakota has 20,000 square miles more than the state of Iowa, yet there are 2.2 million fewer people here. Statistically, that’s approximately 55 people per square mile in Iowa, whereas in South Dakota there are only about 11 people per square mile … of course, in both states the populations are concentrated around several metropolitan areas, but that also means a lot more rural areas here and a lot more unobstructed space from which to view the wonders of Dakota skies.

The Northern lights can sometimes be seen as far south as South Dakota. Photo by Christian Begeman

I can attest that the accessibility of Dakota skies and distant horizons is one of this state’s great unheralded treasures. I was acutely aware of this reality when my family moved from Vermillion to Iowa. In Vermillion, where I taught astronomy for 18 years, I would routinely take photographs of the rising positions of the sun along the eastern horizon to show students the sun’s progress through the changing seasons. Weekly changes in position were astonishing to most of them, though many had a vague awareness of this solar motion. But in Iowa, where we were usually surrounded by trees and buildings, few were conscious of this celestial ballet as the sun danced up and down along the horizons through the year. What a striking drama of the sky to miss!

In 1852, the always perceptive Henry David Thoreau wrote in his journal that, “The blue bird carries the sky on his back.” South Dakota carries the sky in its heart and mind as well, and above its long, golden prairies and Black Hills day and night. In few places does the universe open its arms to the sensitive observer in such welcome.

Fortunately, for most of us living under Dakota skies, light pollution (which has become an annoyance of major proportions in many other states) is not a significant factor. Light pollution refers to the extravagant use of artificial light, particularly in cities and towns, which acts to blot out fainter light from natural sources, such as star filled skies. But here on the plains, if the weather is clear, even faint light from distant celestial phenomena is visible in most places even with yard lights present. I was particularly impressed by this one night when my wife and I were returning home through the rural countryside. We traveled on gravel roads most of the way, so no street lights or other bright illumination was present, and except for our headlights the only other light came from the stars.

It was a magnificent night. The moon, which was at the waning crescent stage, had dropped out of sight below the western horizon hours before in its eternal pursuit of the sun. From horizon to horizon the sky was like black velvet sprinkled with myriad points of glistening light. The Milky Way stood out boldly stretching among the stars like the well-trodden path the Sioux have spoken of when describing the route of departed spirits — the brightest stars along the way being campfires where the spirits paused.

Sun dogs appear when ice particles in the air refract rays of sunlight. Photo by Christian Begeman

Constellation forms were so pronounced everywhere (even through the dusty windshield of the car) that I felt compelled to stop and get out for a moment to drink in that sweet, celestial nectar. Except for an occasional stirring by an errant western zephyr, there was no sound in those magical moments. And in that pristine splendor, my heart was grateful to be free of distracting thoughts. I was simply overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of the universe that engulfs us.

It was then that I first noticed a faint, almost indistinguishable glow along the northern horizon. There were no towns in that direction, so I surmised that it was the beginning of a display of Northern Lights — the Aurora Borealis. The ancients knew her as the “northern dawn,” and she began to show her brightening face as the glow gradually crept farther up into the waiting night sky. Very faintly the glow pulsed and throbbed, resembling wind blowing through gossamer curtains. By the time we had returned home a single, faint ray stabbed up toward the zenith overhead and then fell back again into the diffuse glow along the horizon, as though it were conserving its energy. Then, it vanished.

Had we lived anywhere else but the Northern Great Plains, I doubt if we would ever have seen that subtle goddess of the night silently tiptoeing along the dark corridors of the northern horizon in her luminous gown and flowing veils.

There are so many wondrous things to see in the Dakota skies. They somehow take on a different feeling here than anywhere else I have lived — and I have lived in New York, New England, the mid-Atlantic states and Florida. Even the new crescent moon seen just above the western horizon on the plains in the early twilight moves some authors to poetic arrangements of words. Fred Schaaf, an astronomer of some note, wrote, “delicate and lovely are words that well describe the sight of a slender crescent moon afloat on the shores of the sun’s afterglow, set on the edge of the deepening shades of night.”

It is little wonder that the skies produce such awe and inspiration for people who are attuned to them. One has only to watch and to wonder about what is being seen. There are many things which may have sparked your curiosity and made you wonder as well. Have you ever wondered about those sundogs you’ve seen as the sun sets and the winds are whipping up newly fallen snow? Well, those bright patches of light are related to the softly luminous rings you may sometimes see surrounding the sun and sometimes around the moon. They are called “parahelia,” and they can be very complex. I once received a telephone call from WNAX, a radio station in Yankton, when many people spotted a number of interconnecting circles of light around the sun and more than a few worried about the world’s end. Others just wanted to understand what was happening in their skies.

Larger raindrops produce more vivid color in summertime rainbows. Photo by John Mitchell

Have you ever been curious about those long dark rays that seem to stretch across the twilight sky in the summer just before a storm arrives? They are called “crepuscular rays,” and some may well be the projection of cloud shadows hundreds of miles to the west of your position. They often announce the approach of a storm. And what about those falling stars (meteors), some of which are but tiny needle scratches of light and others yielding broad bands of colored light from horizon to horizon? What are they, and why are they so different from one another? And what about the common rainbow? Have you ever noticed that when you are fortunate enough to see two rainbows, the second rainbow has colors that are reversed from the first?

Not all of these wondrous phenomena are strictly astronomical in nature and some would properly belong in the meteorologist’s notebook, but meteorologists, astronomers and poets share a common love for these marvels of nature. And all of us appreciate the Dakota skies, which, clothed in sparkling stars by night and bathed in the light of a glorious sun by day, sustain our bond with nature and lift our view and thoughts to other things than the world’s tears.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the March/April 1996 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Halverson’s Skies

Randy Halverson’s fields are his livelihood and his passion. By day he farms 1,300 acres of corn, wheat and milo in Lyman County. But when the sun sets, Halverson swaps his tractor for an arsenal of Canons and high tech gadgetry that produce stunning photos and videos of South Dakota’s night sky.

Halverson got his first camera as a teenager, and experimented with shooting passing storms and the solar system. He spent time as a storm chaser during the 1990s, photographing and licensing his images of thunderstorms and tornadoes. Then he discovered time-lapse photography.”I knew that out here there wasn’t much light pollution, so I thought it would work pretty well as long as the skies were clear,” he says.”I already had the cameras, so I thought I’d try it.”

In a time-lapse video, images are captured slowly. For example, a flower might take two hours to open, but you can watch the entire process in 15 seconds. Since Halverson works mostly at night, he incorporates long exposure photography into his time-lapse videos. A single image is exposed for 20 to 30 seconds, with two or three seconds between each exposure. To add motion, Halverson uses a dolly that slides the camera a quarter to half an inch between exposures. A typical night of shooting lasts three or four hours, leaving Halverson with up to 400 photographs to edit. And the fruits of one evening’s labor? About 10 seconds of a time-lapse video.

People began noticing Halverson’s work when he produced Sub Zero, a 2-minute, 43-second winter time-lapse video shot near his Kennebec farm during a brutal February cold snap. Wind chills plunged to 25 below zero, and Halverson had to regularly place his cameras and computer equipment in coolers filled with hand warmers to keep frost at bay and the electronics functioning. The starry sky, low wispy clouds racing across the horizon and frozen landscape, illuminated by the bright white light of a full moon, created an eerie scene.

Halverson’s time-lapse videos of the night sky became Internet sensations, appearing on wired.com because of their advanced technology and nationalgeographic.com for their natural beauty. At times, the attention nearly overwhelms the soft-spoken farmer.”I thought people might like it, but I didn’t think it would get as much attention as it has,” he says.”A lot of people are interested in time-lapse now, especially if you’re using dollies, where you can get the camera moving. A lot of people haven’t seen that before.”

The Milky Way has always been Halverson’s favorite subject. Most of the videos on his website show the galaxy as it skirts across the night sky between twisted corn stalks and above abandoned prairie homes. His 3-minute, 39-second Tempest Milky Way won Best Overall and Audience Choice at New Mexico’s 2011 Chronos Film Festival, a gathering of time-lapse, slow motion and stop motion photographers.

“I love the way the Milky Way looks,” he says,”but you don’t really get to see it this way with the naked eye.” Few South Dakotans have observed the night sky quite like Halverson. But as long as he roams his fields, camera in hand, more people will glimpse the heavens from a perspective seldom seen.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the January/February 2012 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Looking Up

Minimal light pollution in South Dakota allows stargazers to clearly see the Milky Way among thousands of stars. Photo by Christian Begeman.

The night heavens have been a source of mystery and intrigue for millenia. The darkness, and what it contained, puzzled even the most brilliant Greek philosophers.”Astronomy?” uttered Sophocles in about 420 B.C.”Impossible to understand and madness to investigate.” But the last 2,500 years have given us rockets and rovers to explore distant planets, cameras that float to the outer reaches of our solar system and high-powered telescopes that allow us to see the faintest galaxies hundreds of thousands of light years away.

Stars, planets and other celestial bodies have fascinated me since I was 7, when an aunt and uncle gave me an astronomy book and a star wheel that showed various constellations in different seasons. I struggled with a tiny telescope to find the images I saw in the book. But beyond the Big Dipper, Orion the Hunter and other painfully obvious constellations, the results were disappointing.

Until last summer, the closest I had come to real stargazing was when a group of friends and I sat in the middle of a Hamlin County pasture with a case of beer on a cool, late autumn evening. I remember pointing out the Seven Sisters, the only name I knew at the time for the Pleiades, a blurry cluster of stars named for Greek mythological characters. My Coors consuming friends were not impressed.

Perhaps they didn’t realize that we were peering into some of the darkest skies found in North America. In 2001 well-known astronomer John Bortle compiled his Bortle Dark-Sky Scale. Its nine categories measure the level of darkness found in the sky. A color-coded map of the United States begins with black (the darkest skies) and ends with white, which represents inner-city sky. The eastern half of the country looks like a child’s finger painting. Blobs of bright green, yellow, orange, red and white dominate. But a line cuts the country in half, roughly along Interstate 29, where the bright colors abruptly end. Much of South Dakota is plunged into dark blues, purples and an inky dab of black over the Badlands.

On a typical evening, a glowing orange dome created by thousands of artificial lights encases Sioux Falls. But just 30 miles away you can clearly spot the Milky Way. I was amazed at its clarity when I attended the South Dakota Star Party at Hodgson’s Observatory 6 miles southeast of Beresford.

Richard Hodgson hosts an annual stargazing party as his farm near Beresford.

Richard Hodgson taught astronomy and planetary science at Dordt College in Sioux Center, Iowa for 30 years before retiring in 2002. He and his wife Nancy, a retired professor of archaeology at the University of South Dakota, bought their Union County farm roughly halfway between their respective schools in 1994 to create an observatory and host public gatherings.

“The Milky Way is just beautiful from this property,” Hodgson says.”It’s surrounded by bottomland which is farmed but not built on for a mile in various directions. It’s kind of like an island in the prairie. For eastern South Dakota it’s one of the better places to be.”

The Hodgsons began construction on the observatory buildings in 2003. The newest addition is the astrolodge, a small white classroom just south of their home where students and visitors first meet when touring the observatory. They get an introduction to the solar system through maps and a scale drawing. Another boxy building just four feet tall with a retractable roof houses a telescope used for solar observation. But the centerpiece is Hodgson’s 25-inch Obsession telescope (25 inches refers to the diameter of the mirror). It’s the second-largest telescope in South Dakota. Only Ron Dyvig’s 26-inch scope at his Badlands Observatory in Quinn, 6 miles east of Wall, is bigger.

Dyvig turned the tiny town’s abandoned hospital into an observatory in 2000. For years he was an avid asteroid hunter, searching outer space for Near Earth Objects on a potential collision course with Earth. During his research, he discovered 25 new asteroids in the main belt between Mars and Jupiter and three binary asteroids with small moons.

Today Dyvig’s telescope can be remotely controlled over the Internet. He’s helped students at the University of North Dakota earn master’s degrees by studying the universe through his scope. He also hopes to work with students at the University of South Dakota, South Dakota State University and the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology on a new research program involving supernovas.

South Dakota’s Badlands feature some of the darkest skies in the nation. Photo by Christian Begeman.

Another representation of the solar system at Hodgson’s Observatory follows a fenceline on the southern edge of the property. This scale model is 610 feet long (one of the largest scale representations of the solar system in North America) and includes plaques noting important objects.”We pick out things that are historically important, or unusual, or quite large and command some attention,” Hodgson says.”You can’t include everything in the solar system.”

Hodgson speaks with pride as we walk along the model, particularly when we arrive at 243 Ida, an asteroid whose orbit lies between Mars and Jupiter. In 1993 as the Galileo spacecraft snapped photos on its way to Jupiter, it discovered a tiny moon, later named Dactyl, orbiting the asteroid. The discovery justified research Hodgson conducted 40 years ago.”I’d advocated the idea back in the early 1970s, that some asteroids might have satellites, and this was laughed at by the scientific community,” he says.”By the late ’70s there were a few others who thought it may be possible. But I was quite pleased that Ida came through for me.”

The late August morning dawned cloudy and rainy, but by noon the sun emerged. Amateur astronomers sweated through T-shirts as they assembled telescopes on three acres of grass that Hodgson cuts for members of the Sioux Empire Astronomy Club. John Johnson’s pickup was backed to a slab of concrete poured just for him. He was putting together his 20-inch Obsession telescope, the second-largest in use for that evening’s star party.”It’s a hobby, but some of us go a little crazier than others,” Johnson says.”I tell people that’s my Harley Davidson. I can put 350 billion light years on it and not even have to change the oil.”

John Johnson is a regular at Hodgson’s star parties. There’s even a slab of cement there for his telescope.

Johnson works at Tendaire Industries in Beresford. He caught the stargazing bug 12 years ago.”When I was a kid I had a little toy refractor that was junk,” Johnson said. I could relate.”One day in 2000 I was walking through a pawn shop and saw a nice little box. It was a 60 mm refractor with all the eyepieces and the tripod. I bought it for $45, set it up in the backyard that night and pointed it at the brightest thing I could see. It happened to be Saturn, and I almost fell over. That was it. I had the fever.”

Next came a 4.5-inch refractor. Then a 6-inch. Then 8 and 10.”They call it aperture fever,” he says.”The more and more aperture you get, the more you see.”

Visitors arrived as dusk settled over the observatory, driving into the farmyard with headlights extinguished, which is proper stargazing etiquette. Hodgson began the night with a video in the astrolodge. Then attendees rotated among the dozen telescopes, guided by red filtered lights that illuminated the ground but did not hamper night vision.

The scopes were trained on star clusters, planetary nebula, comets and galaxies millions of light years away. The Andromeda galaxy, at 2.5 million light years from Earth, is about the farthest you can see with the naked eye. It was clearly visible, but even more spectacular through the scope. We observed the faint blues of the Crab Nebula and the bright green of the Dumbbell Nebula. Just before 10 p.m., the International Space Station cruised overhead. It was visible for about 90 seconds before disappearing in the eastern sky. Visitors left around midnight and club members were left to do their own observing until sunrise.

Thousands of stars were visible with the naked eye alone from Hodgson’s Observatory, but there’s even less light pollution west of the Missouri River.”I can tell you that South Dakota, if they had a ranking system [for states with the darkest skies], would rank quite high because we just don’t have light pollution at all compared to the rest of the country,” says Dyvig, the Quinn astronomer.

Conditions are even favorable on the outskirts of Rapid City, our largest West River metropolitan area.”We have, on average, 280 to 300 clear days every year, so we probably have better sky conditions than 95 percent of the rest of the country,” says Steve Parker, director of the Hidden Valley Observatory, headquarters for the Black Hills Astronomy Club, on the northwest edge of Rapid City.

But South Dakota’s very darkest skies are found over the Badlands. Stargazers may see a faint glow from a small town or the light from a ranch, but on a moonless night you can see up to 7,500 stars with the naked eye.”For people coming from big cities, it might be the first time they’ve ever seen the Milky Way before,” says Aaron Kaye, a supervisory park ranger at Badlands National Park.”On rare occasions, maybe 12 times in the 13 years I’ve been here, you can see the Aurora borealis. No promises, but we are far enough north that if the event is big enough we can see it.”

Stargazing is a hobby anyone can enjoy, especially in South Dakota, where light pollution remains minimal. And you don’t have to spend thousands on a telescope. It turns out, standing in a field with a guidebook works just as well. Either way, take time to look up. You’ll find that stars millions of light years away have never seemed so bright.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the March/April 2012 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Nature’s Fireworks

The Northern lights, or aurora borealis, have been casting an amazing glow across the northern part of the continent this week. It’s not common to see them in South Dakota, but last weekend’s geomagnetic storm on the sun’s surface was one of the strongest since September of 2005. The aurora is caused when those charged particles from the sun interact with gaseous particles in the Earth’s atmosphere, producing a rainbow of colors.
Christian Begeman took these photos late Monday night and early Tuesday morning. Another solar storm is forecast for tonight (Wednesday), so there’s a good chance to see the lights again. The best viewing time is between 11 p.m. and 4 a.m., when skies are clear and dark. Look to the north and hope.
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Dakota Awakening

Another spring is settling in. I like to muse that the season is much more than simply another tilt of the planet back towards the sun. It’s the annual promise of new life. It’s another chance to smell rain on the wind. It’s another year to chase the light and see what is beyond the next bend. Springtime provides a lot to be thankful for, but also is a time of nostalgia for me. I remember life awakening on the farm, the smell of the first cut grass, the song of the meadowlark from a distant fencepost and the smell of plowed earth at planting time. This year, the season’s signature flourish of raindrops and rainbows have been few and far between, but thankfully that has not stopped the return of waterfowl on the wind, the greening of the grass and the budding of leaves. The songbirds and wildflowers are back, there’s new warmth in the breeze and the sky seems a bit more blue. Happy Spring everyone!

March 11

While checking the status of ice on area lakes, I startled a large group of migrating waterfowl hanging out in a pond of snowmelt near Silver Lake in northeast Hutchinson County.


March 20

On the official first day of spring I took a sunset hike around the edge of Buffalo Slough south of Chester. All ice is completely gone.


March 31

I found a rather large, wild pasqueflower patch a few miles south of Lake Vermillion including a lovely little natural bouquet of five.


April 4

Just like last spring, a lunar eclipse took place, but dawn approached too quickly to see the full”blood moon.” This photo was taken roughly 20 minutes before totality above Skresfrud Lutheran of rural Lincoln County. Since I was already up, I checked the bird feeders at Good Earth State Park and watched the early bird (robin) get its worm.


April 5

Temperatures reached the low 70s on this Easter Day. In the afternoon, I went looking for snow trillium at Newton Hills State Park and found many blossoms as well as a half dozen Question Mark butterflies soaking up the day’s warmth amongst the last year’s leaves.


April 12

A spring day for the books! First I explored Union Grove State Park to find an early flowering bush along the trail. Later, after a brief thunderstorm passed, an afternoon rainbow graced the sky over the fields of Union County. In the evening another rainbow appeared on the northwest edge of Vermillion and the magic was far from over. As I drove back to Sioux Falls, the setting sun painted the retreating rain clouds pink and blue north of Chancellor.


April 18

A steady, light rain fell for most of the afternoon in Sioux Falls. It was much needed moisture. I spent some time in the Japanese Garden area of Terrace Park to see if I could capture the mood of the day. I was accompanied by a variety of geese, ducks and songbirds, including a male northern cardinal with raindrops glistening on its vibrant feathers.


Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Let There Be Less Light

Here where I live, 25 miles south of the second largest town in South Dakota, I enjoy walking visitors outside at night. If they insist on taking a flashlight, I pocket it. They look up, gasp, and tell me they have never seen so many stars.

I may remind them the same stars light their sky.

We walk easily in darkness as visitors learn that tall prairie grasses seem to gather luminance from the stars, sprinkling it around our feet. With snow on the ground, the night is so bright we could run, or read a newspaper.

I’ve spent my happiest daylight hours on the prairie, working while surrounded by the unique native grasses, flowers, birds and wildlife. Night is a spiritual event, a pilgrimage to the sanctum sanctorum, the holy of holies.

Ambling through the dark, I hear the song of ancient grasses, redtop and big bluestem whispering to the stars that have shone here for millennia. Inhaling clean air, I exhale the day’s tensions. In summer, the rich ooze from a pond teases my nose with bouquets of growth and decay, flowers and mud. A duck squawks and splashes, perhaps escaping a prowling badger. Some nights, I can smell the badger’s musk as he lumbers along, swinging his head, sniffing for mice. His whistled signal to other badgers may set off a sleepy refrain from meadowlarks or redwing blackbirds, rippling through the dark. This is South Dakota, not the Serengeti; I know a mountain lion might hunt this darkness, and trust her instincts lead her to smaller prey.

Coyotes howl; a great horned owl hoots from the juniper trees, freezing a rabbit under a bush. A flock of grouse chuckles, alarmed. A deer flings her head up, her eyes like small moons, her soft ears swiveling to scoop sound from the air. When she leaps the fence, the top wire twangs against her hooves.

Looking up, I feel star heat, like a hand lightly brushing my forehead in blessing. On the prairie at night, who could doubt that the Creator of all this wonder is watching over us?

To the north, though, it looks as if each of Rapid City’s 70,000 citizens has a personal spotlight trained on the sky. Instead of directing light to the spots where visibility is needed at specific times, city street lights blaze upward all night long, wasting light and energy, interrupting the natural lives of animals, and profaning this cathedral of darkness.

West of my house stands a subdivision where families moved to escape the noise and bustle of the city, to enjoy the freedom, independence and beauty of country life. Each house is announced by its”security light.” If we look at those lights from a mile away, we are night-blinded.

As I give thanks for the life that makes my darkness pulsate with life, I feel sorry for the subdivision residents. Surely they moved here to love what I love, to experience the real prairie, yet all I can see is their fear. Properly directed and timed lighting could deter both thievery and the few dangerous animals, like mountain lions, which prowl past. Instead the misdirected lights create deep shadows where any predator could hide. Their security lights signal:”Hey! Here we are, rich enough to waste money on unnecessary lighting. The nearest law enforcement agency is thirty-five miles away on a winding road. Help yourself!”

We still have choices. If I hear suspicious noises, I switch on floodlights positioned to throw light where a predator might hide. When I turn them off again, the blessed darkness flows back.

Editor’s Note: Linda M. Hasselstrom lives and writes at Windbreak House near Hermosa. This story first appeared in the March/April 2010 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 1-800-456-5117.