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Pheasants: We Salute Them and Shoot Them

I was putting my extensive knowledge of South Dakota to good use a couple weeks ago. My wife was crafting a quiz for her eighth-graders, and for extra credit she wanted to test their knowledge of our state symbols. She asked me what they were, rapid fire style: State Animal? Coyote. State Fish? Walleye. State Insect? Honeybee. State bird? Ring-necked pheasant.

Then there was a pause.

“Are we the only state that hunts its state bird?” she asked.

I had to think a minute before I turned to Google, the giver of all knowledge, to answer definitively. The answer is yes, South Dakota is the only state to hunt and eat its state bird. We’re also one of three states whose state bird is not native to the United States.

It made me wonder how Chinese ring-necked pheasants made it across the Pacific Ocean. I discovered that the first batch of 60 pheasants arrived in Port Townsend, Oregon on March 13, 1881. United States consul general Owen Nickerson Denny shipped the birds and a variety of other Chinese plants from Shanghai, hoping to establish them in their home state of Oregon. Most of them died on their way to Portland, but a few survivors were released on the lower Columbia River. No one knows for sure if any of these birds survived, but we do know that Denny imported more pheasants in 1882 and 1884. Those did survive, and pheasants began a new life in America.

Breeders tried introduction efforts in South Dakota as early as 1891, but none took root. The first successful release happened in 1908, when a group of farmers near Redfield bought three pairs of birds from an Oregon farm. They turned them loose in Hagmann’s Grove just north of town, and the birds made themselves at home. State officials were pleased with the success, so the game department purchased 48 more birds in 1911 and released them near Redfield. From 1914 to 1917, 7,000 pheasants were released in the thick brush of the James River valley in Spink County.

Soon South Dakota boasted enough birds to hold a one-day pheasant-hunting season held October 30, 1919. Fewer than 200 birds were bagged on that cold, rainy day, but a tradition had been born. The pheasant became so important to our culture and economy that the legislature deemed it our state bird in February 1943.

South Dakota remains the nation’s pheasant capital. In 2005 more than 10 million birds lived here. Read our current issue to find out how we know that. So this fall, when you head out for”the opener,” tip your cap to our state bird before you fill him with pellets.

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Trees and Us

I once accidentally set fire to a tree stump in our yard. It had been cut, and dry, jagged spires of wood rose where the tree snapped as it fell. Naturally it became the perfect place for a boy to stuff firecrackers.

For the 10-year-old me, the remains of that tree were nothing more than an opportunity for Fourth of July fun. The older and wiser me knows there must have been a story behind that tree. It was part of a line of trees planted along our lot line. Maybe one of the town founders planted it?

It’s interesting how in South Dakota, we form connections to trees. Perhaps it’s because when our ancestors first arrived in Dakota 150 years ago they encountered a landscape largely devoid of trees. When we look at the tall cottonwoods around our farmyards and small towns, they are a tangible connection to the pioneers we never knew. They are also full of history.

We’ve written a lot about important trees. There’s the landmark cottonwood that wouldn’t die in Henry. Planted in 1882, it survived a 1971 tornado, a windstorm in 1984 and a fire that destroyed the town cafÈ and bar. Victims of this year’s historic Missouri River flood are dealing with damaged homes and other possessions. But Curt Mortenson told us about a 200-year-old cottonwood near his house that’s been surrounded by water all summer. He said a photo taken in the 1880s shows a steamboat tied to it. No one knows the toll the flood will take on trees in the river valley.

In our September/October 2007 issue, Melvin Marousek wrote about a grove of trees his father planted in Meade County.”For more years than I like to remember, I have made periodic pilgrimages to this lonely but, to me, hallowed homestead where so many memories lie waiting to be resurrected,” he wrote.”It is here that lost memories well into conscious thought and long sleeping ghosts drift by — ghosts of many descriptions, some light and airy and cheerful, others sad, tired and grim.”

I heard about another important family tree just today. A stately cedar stood on the John Hynes homestead west of Conde for 112 years until a wicked thunderstorm ravaged the top third of it in the spring of 1994. The loss prompted Earl Grandpre, owner of the Hynes farmstead, to pen a tribute recalling memories and tracing the tree’s grand history.

Hynes brought his son to Dakota Territory to find a homestead in 1882. They filed on a quarter of land a half mile west of Conde. That fall they returned to St. Paul, where the rest of the family had stayed. Hynes told his wife there were no trees on the homestead he had selected. So the next spring, before they all came to Dakota for good, she went to the banks of the Mississippi River and collected a small cedar sapling. She placed it in a suitcase full of dirt from the riverbank and tended to it during the long covered wagon ride west. They planted the tree just southwest of their original shanty.

“Jack and Ed Hynes told me many times the story of this tree,” Grandpre wrote.”They seemed to want to impress on me the importance that they placed on it. They knew that my wife and I would own and farm this land, and though they didn’t say so, I know they did not want me to destroy this tree. They did not have to worry. My wife would never have let me or anyone else hurt this tree.”

That’s because trees can be as important to us as they were to the men and women who brought them here.

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The Wheat Ritual

Teams of combines often assemble to harvest the sprawling fields of Sully County, easily the wheat capital of South Dakota. Farmers there generally plant more than 230,000 acres of wheat. In 2007 they grew 10.5 million bushels. Photo by Dave Tunge.

Dakota Wheat Field

By Hamlin Garland

Like liquid gold the wheat-field lies,
A marvel of yellow and russet and green,

That ripples and runs, that floats and flies,
With the subtle shadows, the change, the sheen,

That play in the golden hair of a girl, –
A ripple of amber — a flare

Of light sweeping after — a curl
In the hollows like swirling feet
Of fairy waltzers, the colors run

To the western sun
Through the deeps of the ripening wheat.

Wheat is just dark bread to most Americans, but it encompasses history, geography and a way of life for thousands of South Dakota farm families who harvest 3.5 million acres in summer rituals that connect us to the very first homesteaders.

The grain harvest was once a community event, as families joined forces for the labor-intense binding, shocking and threshing. Today, lone farmers race across wheat fields in gleaming and computerized five-ton metal combines with GPS systems and air conditioned cabs that harvest more than 100 acres on a good day, but the principle remains the same as when the work was done by hands and horses.

Modern combines eliminate much of the toil and tedium from the wheat harvest. Still, a flurry of activity can be seen in farm country as the heads ripen and droop with grain.

“Like liquid gold the wheat field lies,” wrote pioneer Hamlin Garland, a Dakota homesteader who later became a popular American novelist. Garland found farm life tedious, but he appreciated the beauty of a ripening wheat field and the bounty that it represents.

West River cowboys and city residents who haven’t experienced the appeal of harvest might compare it to the satisfaction of the last day of a good school year, to the serenity of a hike in some quiet woods, or to the success of a roundup when every cow and calf is accounted for.

Cultivation of wheat began 10,000 years ago when the Neolithic people of Asia began to replant wild grasses and collect the seeds for food. European emigrants brought seeds overseas. Today 10 percent of the world’s 22 billion bushel wheat crop is grown in the United States, mostly in the six prairie states that stretch from the Dakotas to Texas. South Dakotans raise and harvest about 76 million bushels every summer.

Corn, soybeans and cattle are economically more significant statewide, but wheat is still king to some farmers in north central South Dakota. John O. Overby homesteaded in Spink County near Northville in 1883, and then moved to a farm east of Mellette in 1886. He and his wife raised five sons who became wheat farmers. Overbys have lived in the same farmhouses and planted the same fields for five generations.

“When they first came here, wheat was the predominant crop,” says Glenn Overby, today’s patriarch.”Of course everybody had some livestock but wheat was the big cash crop into the 1940s.”

Humans have been planting and harvesting wheat for 10,000 years. Glenn Overby was raised in a family that was devoted to perfecting wheat and other aspects of farm and ranch life.

The Overby brothers owned an Avery threshing machine.”It took 12 bundle racks to keep it going with spike pitchers,” Glenn says.”We had a cook car in the yard. Can you imagine all the bread they had to bake and all the chickens they had to butcher to just feed the workers?”

Tom Kilian, a longtime Sioux Falls educator and conservationist, grew up on a Miner County farm where threshing was a summer highlight. In his 2007 book Old Days on the Prairie, Kilian recalled the quick pace.”All the tasks were performed as fast as possible and this provided opportunity for the more macho of the young farm hands to demonstrate muscle,” he wrote.”Who could load and unload the fastest? Who could get out to the field, load up and come back the quickest, driving the most spirited horses? And who could do those things with flair and careless energy so as to stand out in the group?”

Despite the size and speed of today’s combines, a sense of urgency still surrounds the harvest. Any change in the weather — wind, rain or hail — might dramatically decrease the yield. Though a field may be golden brown and heavy with heads of grain, farmers don’t consider it a success until it is harvested and hauled to the safety of a steel bin either on the farm or at a local elevator.

Even then, there’s the question of price. Wheat milling, like meat-packing and other food processing industries, has experienced massive consolidations in the last half-century. More than 1,200 mills competed to buy wheat in the heydays of the 1940s; today fewer than 400 operate, and they are generally located near metropolitan populations far from the prairie wheat fields. That leaves farmers dependent on the vagaries of a less-competitive market, and also on the resourcefulness of the railroads to move the grain out-of-state.

Despite such uncertainties, South Dakota farmers carry on the 10,000-year human tradition of planting and harvesting wheat. The Overbys have always exemplified the determination to continue our wheat-growing ways.

Glenn’s dad, John, wanted better yields and more consistent quality. He had a South Dakota farmer’s healthy aversion to the commercial seed companies so he experimented for decades with his own seed plots. He kept extensive records, handwritten in pencil.

“Creating a new wheat variety is a long process,” says Glenn, who has all the record books, as well as an understanding and appreciation for what his dad accomplished.”First, one needs a vision to pick the varieties that have the qualities wanted in the new plant. Wheat has both male and female parts in each kernel’s blossom so it is self-pollinating. Before the female blossom is mature the three male antlers must be removed by opening the hull with a tweezers to take them out,” he says.”Several days later, when the male blossom ripens the pollen sacs are transferred by tweezers to the female blossom. When the pollen is mature it is only viable for about five minutes so timing is critical.”

His dad cross-pollinated up to 100 different plants a year using 10 to 15 kernels each. The selection process occurred when he planted the hybrid plant the next year. It took between seven and 10 years for him to get enough grain to just do a milling and baking test.

The Mellette farmer-scientist had only an eighth grade education but he learned agronomy from reading books.”Dad was interested in getting a better variety for himself and his neighbors,” said Glenn.”He wasn’t interested in starting a big business. He wanted a high protein wheat with a strong stalk that didn’t shatter or shell out too easily, was drought resistant and disease resistant.”

The work was so exacting that he insisted on doing it personally, but the entire family lived with the experiments.”When he harvested he would pull the wheat stalk out by the roots because he wanted to see how the root was growing. He would tie a single row into a bundle and 20 rows into a larger bundle. In two rooms upstairs, he stored the bundles, threshed each row in a box with a wood block, weighed, recorded notes, evaluated and decided which to continue crossing or discard for the next year.”

He devoted 50 years, often on his knees with a tweezer, to improve the tradition of growing wheat …

John Overby started his experiments in 1915 and by 1928 he was selling his own variety, Marvel Wheat, for $2 a bushel. Because of Marvel’s high protein and test weight it sometimes sold for 50 cents more per bushel than other kinds of wheat.

The part-time plant breeder developed another variety known as Spinkcota and gradually he attracted loyal customers. Glenn helped his father clean wheat seed and loaded it for customers. He remembers when the well-known Asmussens of Agar became the first farmers to buy more than 100 bushels.”We loaded their truck and took it to the Mellette elevator to weigh and then they stayed for lunch,” he says.

Farmers believed Spinkcota had higher yields and was better suited to the South Dakota soil than its corporate competition. Ralph Sorensen, the Spink County extension agent in the 1940s, became a believer and he got the attention of Darrell Wells and other plant scientists at South Dakota State College in Brookings.

When academic researchers reported at a Minneapolis milling and baking conference that Spinkcota was not a favorite among commercial bakers, Sorensen retorted that the South Dakota seed had endured the 1953 rust epidemic better than the competition and that farmers were developing quite a liking to the variety.

As Overby was nearing the end of his career, he witnessed the beginning of what is now called the green revolution. Wheat yields doubled in the 1960s and 1970s due to an expansion of modern farming practices, better seed varieties and the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. A leader of the movement was Norman Borlaug, an Iowa-born scientist who — like Overby — saw farming as a way to improve the world.

Ruth and Glenn Overby (far right) live in the house where Glenn’s father experimented with wheat varieties. Pictured with them are their son, Philip, his wife, Linda, and grandson A.J., who represents a fifth generation on the same farm.

Overby grew test plots even as an old man, and he continued to gain respect from both his neighbors and the agricultural community. In 1962 the Brentford Congregational Church held a John Overby Appreciation Banquet. Charles Croes, the first leader of the South Dakota Wheatgrowers Cooperative, was one of the dignitaries who came to pay tribute.”Probably one of man’s most tragic shortcomings down through the ages has been his lack of interest in doing something for the benefit of his fellow man, his neighbor, without being first assured that he would profit money-wise for the doing,” Croes said.”The richer reward, the knowledge that his action has helped his fellow man, has been all too often overlooked, given second place or lost entirely.”

Not John Overby, however. He devoted 50 years, often on his knees with a tweezer in his fingers, to improving a South Dakota wheat-growing tradition that was in its infancy during his lifetime.

Glenn and his wife, Ruth, live on the farm where the test plots were raised and bundles were stored and inspected. They have all of John Overby’s journals and records, and many of his tools and memorabilia.

Their son, Philip and his wife, Linda, live just across the grove of trees. Philip farms the land today, with help from Linda and their son, A.J., who studies agriculture at SDSU and represents the fifth generation of Overbys to harvest wheat in Spink County.

“In many ways it’s the same even though the equipment has changed,” Glenn says, as he watches Philip cross a field in a combine that moves like a ship at sea, only noisier and dustier. The sky over Spink County is a deep blue, contrasting with the golden wheat stalks and green corn in the neighboring field.

The land here is so flat that you can see another combine a mile away, sailing above its own square sea of wheat. Nothing is certain in life, but the Spink County wheat harvest has become a predictable summer rite thanks to families like the Overbys who have tended to both the land and the custom.


Overby Inventions Exhibited at SDSU

John Overby’s creative mind roamed well beyond plant breeding. He and his brothers invented several farm improvements, and some can be seen at the State Agricultural Heritage Museum in Brookings.

Curator Dawn Stephens says the Overby inventions include a windmill regulator, a stock waterer, a contraption that mounted on the wheel of an automobile to harvest small grains and, naturally, a better mouse trap.

Stephens assisted the Overby family in producing a documentary,”John Overby: Wheat Breeding Methods,” that can be purchased for $15 at the museum (or by phone at 688-5904).”He and his brothers were very inventive. I can’t believe the things they thought to make,” she says.”And they were not afraid to voice their opinions and stand up for what they believed in. They worked hard to make farming life better.”

The ag museum, located on the South Dakota State University campus, also has antique wheat harvest equipment such as a Norwegian hand crank thresher, an 1890 Case Agitator with original paint, a Massey combine, an IH grain binder and a 1915 John Deere hay press that still works.

The museum staff will play the Overby film for visitors upon request.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the July/August 2009 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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Apple Pie: It’s in the Bag

Neither our editors nor Mrs. Overby are responsible for oven fires, but a brown paper bag truly adds something to a pie.

Ruth Overby has been baking pies in a bag for years. “That way your pie won’t brown unevenly,” she says. “So often they will brown only on the edges or on top, but not underneath.”

Ruth Overby’s two daughters deserve some of the credit for her pie baking skills.”When my girls started 4-H, they entered a category for pies,” she says.”I really figured out what a good pie was with them.” Each sister made a pie every day to prepare for Spink County’s Achievement Days; the Overby family even ate pie for breakfast. All of their practicing paid off; both qualified for the State Fair in Huron.

Ruth and her husband, Glenn, will celebrate 63 years of marriage in September. They still live on the family farm near Mellette. Her daughters outgrew 4-H pie contests long ago, but Ruth still enters competitions. She placed first among 31 pies at Crisco’s American Pie Celebration at the South Dakota State Fair in 1991 with her”Apple Pie in a Bag.” Asked how she created it, she says,”I wanted a classy name for my pie so I tried a pie in a bag and loved it.” Ruth Overby has been baking pies in a bag for years now.”That way your pie won’t brown unevenly,” she says.”So often they will brown only on the edges or on top, but not underneath.”

Huron celebrates”Pie in the Park” in August. The event includes a pie contest with first through fifth place. One year, Ruth entered two pies, rhubarb with blueberries and an apple. The crowd waited a long time for the judges’ decision because they couldn’t decide between the top pies. Finally they announced that Ruth Overby was the second place winner. And then they announced that the first place prize”goes to … Ruth Overby.”

“A good pie is not a soggy crust — it’s a flaky crust, a good filling and an attractive appearance,” Ruth says. There are several things she does to ensure a”good pie.” All of the crust ingredients should be cold, so she stores her shortening and flour in the refrigerator. A”good pie” can’t be hurried, either.”You have to rest the dough before rolling because that makes the gluten work,” Ruth says. She also swears by a rolling pin sock and a pastry cloth. And, just before popping the pie in the oven, Ruth cuts apples or hearts from the leftover dough to decorate the top of the crust.”It’s my signature,” she says.


Apple Pie in a Bag

“A good pie is not a soggy crust — it’s a flaky crust, a good filling and an attractive appearance,” Ruth says.

Crust:
2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup butter flavor Crisco
1/2 cup cold 7-Up
2 tablespoons cream or
milk

Filling:
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup and 1 teaspoon
granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
6 med. (2 lbs.) firm
apples peeled and sliced (6 cups)
3 level tablespoons
minute tapioca or flour
1 tablespoon cold butter
cut into small pieces

In medium bowl mix flour and salt for crust. Cut in Crisco using a pastry blender. Slowly add 7-Up, tossing with fork until dough forms ball. Mold into two balls. Let dough rest for 10 minutes in refrigerator. Flour rolling surface and rolling pin.

Roll one ball of dough into circle. Place in 9″ pie pan and trim edge. Combine brown sugar, white sugar and tapioca or flour with nutmeg and cinnamon. Toss this mixture lightly with sliced apples. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon sugar on bottom crust to prevent it from getting soggy. Add filling. Dot with butter.

Moisten edge of bottom crust with cream or milk. Roll top crust. Lift onto pie, seal edge and decorate (optional). Slit top crust to allow steam to escape. Place pie in large brown paper bag.

Bake in pre-heated oven at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees for 45 minutes or until crust is lightly brown and apples are tender.

More Tips From Ruth:

  • The print on the bag should go on the bottom. If the bag isn’t big enough, staple it or fold it over a couple of times.
  • Turn the oven on at 400 degrees, but don’t put the pie in the oven until the element is no longer red.
  • While baking, the pie won’t have a typical pie smell; it will smell more like hot paper.
  • The bottom of the bag will quite often be scorched, but that doesn’t matter.
  • After removing the pie from the oven, slit the bag to see if it’s brown and bubbly, and then stick it with a fork to see if the apples are done.

EDITOR’S NOTE — This story is revised from the July/Aug 2009 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order this back issue or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.