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The Last Chokecherry Picking

While making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for our picnic lunch, I heard the happy voices of my two little boys through the open kitchen window. It was almost autumn. The tall prairie grass surrounding our Jones County farm near Okaton was turning brown and the chokecherries were ripe: The kids and I were going to pick some with a friend, Fran, and her two little girls.

As we traveled to Fran’s house up and down the roller-coaster hills (we called the road passage”Tipperary” after the famous bucking horse), the meadowlarks greeted us with songs. Goldenrods nodded as if to say,”All is well this happy day.” We watched an old eagle rise lazily from his lookout on a high corner fence post and soar into the blue sky. A snake slithered across the road, reminding me that danger was always near. If someone got bit by a rattlesnake, could I slash the skin with a razor blade and suck out blood before starting the 70 miles to a doctor?

Our car rattled over the planks of the old wooden bridge and Fran’s big shaggy dog, hearing us approaching, announced our arrival. Fran tucked her two small girls into her car and led me across the prairie toward the corner of the school section where she knew chokecherries abounded.

We followed as her car bounced over crisscrossed car tracks on the prairie. We came upon a prairie dog town and watched the little creatures pop out of their mounds and stand on hind legs to peer at us. They would bark and scold, then scurry down their holes.

A few miles further and we had reached an isolated and sheltered draw, devoid of vegetation except for wild chokecherry that bordered the bank of a dry creek on the further side.

The children scrambled from the cars, eager to pick the tiny berries. Soon their faces were smeared with the purple juice and their lips puckered from the astringent taste of the wild fruit, and they were off to play. I had spread a blanket on the ground in the sheltered cove and Fran and I took turns calling the youngsters back from the tall grass that surrounded this sheltered little spot. Here was a small world all our own with only our little ones and the songs of birds and the chirping of crickets to keep us company.

Then the solitude was broken by the sound of an airplane overhead. We recognized it as that of a rancher who lived farther on up the creek. He was making a routine trip to town. The children shouted and waved their straw hats and sunbonnets as the pilot tipped the plane’s wings in response.

After we had filled our pails with the cherries and had our picnic lunch, we gathered our little ones and returned to our homes. I prepared the chokecherry juice and made a beautiful, clear jelly. The day was such a success, I considered writing a message on the jar’s labels about our fun outing.

As I was contemplating, my husband arrived from town with the mail. He spread the”Weekly” in front of me and pointed to the headline:”Rattlesnake Den Discovered.” I read on,”When Mr. Lynn Lyman was flying home to his ranch yesterday afternoon, he saw a gleaming patch beneath him as he flew over the dry creek bed in the corner of the school section where wild chokecherries grow. Closer scrutiny revealed a glistening, moving mass. To his astonishment he saw it was a mass of rattlesnakes. Instead of continuing to his ranch, he returned to town and summoned the state rattlesnake eradicator, and together they killed the snakes, numbering eighty in all. Rattlesnakes come from afar and gather into a den to hibernate in the fall, and it was not previously known that this thicket was their winter rendezvous.”

We saved the jelly for special occasions, for we did not venture out again to pick chokecherries.

EDITOR’S NOTE — The author, Margaret Bowder Roghair, was a native of Timber Lake who later moved to Oregon. She died in 2012. Her chokecherry picking memories appeared in the July/Aug 2010 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order this back issue or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.


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A Sheepherder Named Gilfillan

Archie Gilfillan rented a log cabin in Spearfish which he called “The Shepherd’s Paradise.”

Archie Gilfillan was South Dakota’s sagebrush philosopher. His prairie wit entertained people in the ranching areas of Montana, North Dakota, Wyoming and South Dakota through the Great Depression.

He talked at colleges, high schools, livestock conventions and smoky bar rooms, giving neighbors and friends a chuckle or two during hard times. Public speaking seems an unlikely sideline for a man who spent 20 years as a lonely sheepherder in northwest South Dakota.

Perhaps even more ironic, however, is the fact that Gilfillan authored one of the funniest and most introspective works on early 20th century West River life. Sheep: Life on the South Dakota Range remains in print even today. Stories from the book are told and retold, especially in the bar rooms and kitchen tables of Harding County where he spent his sheepherding days.

Archer Gilfillan was born Feb. 25, 1886, in White Earth, Minn., where his father served as an Episcopal missionary. In 1898 the family moved to Washington, D.C., after Archie’s father suffered a nervous and physical breakdown.

During his teenage summers, Archie worked on farms in Virginia, Massachusetts and Pennsylvania. He grew to like the farm animals, especially sheep. He claimed to have bought a sheep for $3 when he was a youngster and the animal was sold for $6, along with the wool, just one year later. He invested the $6 in three more ewes and sold them for $18.

Years later he wrote,”While I had never been especially good at mathematics, it seemed to me that 100 percent a year was a pretty good return on an investment and that if I could keep it up regularly I ought to be worth quite a bit some day. So I bought as many ewes as I had money for, and left them, supposedly, on shares, with a neighboring farm woman who had a few sheep of her own.”

But the woman mailed him a check for just $10, claiming the pasture bill ate up the rest of his investment.”I learned about women from her,” he wrote.”I was wiped out. But while women are men’s ineradicable weakness, sheep are not; and it was many a year before I again took up the trail of the Golden Hoof.”

He started high school in 1902, two years late because he suffered from typhoid fever and traveled Europe for two years with two aunts while he recovered.

He wore glasses and was short and stout. Sensitive about his height and roly-poly appearance, he avoided sports. An inferiority complex seemed to haunt him all his life, but he maintained a friendly, good-natured personality.

Archie graduated from high school in 1906 as an honor student. He started at Amherst College but transferred to the University of Pennsylvania at Philadelphia. He graduated Phi Beta Kappa with an emphasis in Latin and Greek in 1910. Archie enjoyed debate and excelled in most of his courses.

After graduation he followed his dream west to South Dakota where he worked on a ranch near the Black Hills. Big cattle ranches of the free grass era had just gone out of business and little people with big dreams were arriving to homestead. Archie caught the”free land” bug and decided to homestead in Harding County near Slim Buttes. He raised sheep but never seemed to find the rhythm of buying low and selling high. In three years he gave up ranching and decided to follow in the ministerial footsteps of his father and grandfather.

For three years he attended Western Theological Seminary in Chicago, an Episcopalian institution. On the day before graduation he had a change of heart and dropped out of school to join the Catholic Church.

Gilfillan’s sheepherder’s wagon is now on exhibit at the Dakota Discovery Museum in Mitchell.

Archie returned to Harding County. For two years he herded sheep on ranches with small flocks. In 1916 he hired out to Almon”Al” Dean and herded sheep for him until 1932.

During those 16 years, Gilfillan developed a problem with alcohol. When Dean caught him in a wagon drunk, he moved him to the home ranch to do chores. Such confined quarters were unbearable to Archie and he took another herding job at a neighbor’s ranch in the spring of 1933. He soon retired from the sheep business and rented a log cabin in Spearfish. He named the cabin Shepherd’s Paradise.

He had kept a diary in cipher, a system of secret writing based on a key, for eight years and four months starting in December of 1924 when he was 38. During those years he filled 9,010 pages of standard letter-size paper.

The diary was later transcribed by John Jenson, rare book librarian at the University of Minnesota, after Emily Heilman, Archie’s sister, donated the work to the university.

Gilfillan claimed that he never failed to make a daily entry in his diary but some days are missing. Perhaps the wind grabbed a page occasionally when the sheep wagon door opened. Some of the jottings were reportedly not meant for public consumption because they contained juicy gossip about the pioneering families of the northwest.

Information from the diary filled the pages of his book Sheep, which was published in 1929 by Little and Brown Co. after being rejected by several other publishers. It sold for $2.50. Gilfillan received 10 percent and he voiced the writer’s lament that the publisher gets 80 percent while the writer gets peanuts.

Gilfillan said his first royalty check should have been about $600 but he gave away too many books so the publisher subtracted $200.

In his diary, he was extremely frank about his day-to-day life. His book reveals a sheepherder’s western humor and philosophy that can only be fully appreciated by readers who understands sheep or people.

He never stopped learning, and he devoured books. At one time, he subscribed to 15 magazines and claimed to have a library of 500 books.”Even if a herder does not particularly care for reading, he will be driven to it in self-defense,” he wrote.

Reading was more than a pastime, he quipped.”If the herder on an intensely cold day can get interested in a good story, it will serve to take his mind off his other troubles, such as how much colder his feet will have to get before they crack and break off, and whether the sun is really standing still, or whether that is merely an optical illusion.”

Gilfillan wrote in an earthy, irreverent style. He detested arrogance in writing or talking. In reference to Mary Austin’s book, The Flock, he said that she never used a word in its right meaning if she could distort another to take its place. Of course while writing a book about sheep it would be impossible to avoid profanity. If it answered a question or released pent up frustration, Archie could curse but he never condoned vulgarity in any form.

Sheep was reprinted in 1930, 1936, and 1956 and 1957. Gilfillan complained that he never did find out how many copies were sold in the first two printings. In recent years, it has been reprinted by the Minnesota Historical Society Press.

During his years as a sheepherder, Gilfillan suffered many hardships including lightning, cloud bursts, floods, blizzards, rattlesnakes, wolves, coyotes and two-legged camp robbers. Once, as a tornado approached, he was forced to seek shelter in an old well.

Gilfillan had other challenges in life. Card games, especially poker, were his downfall. He liked to socialize and always found an excuse for a drink. Unfortunately, he never seemed to realize that cards and whiskey did not mix. Al Dean let him borrow on future wages to pay off his debts and the Ivy League sheepherder was always overdrawn.

In 1924 Gilfillan gave a talk to the Woolgrowers Association at Helena, Montana. He caught everyone by surprise with an outstanding, well-informed speech he called The Secret Sorrows of a Sheepherder. He never gave his name so he remained unknown for several years in spite of efforts in Montana to identify him.

His three secret sorrows were sheepmen who didn’t know as much about sheep as the herder, cowboys who got all the glory while the sheepherder was looked down upon, and women who wanted to be substitute sheepherders.

He maintained that women were ill-equipped for the occupation.”The truth is that in many respects they are unsuited to the work,” he wrote.”With no more than a discreet allusion to the three quickest means of communication, can you really picture a woman engaging in an occupation which would leave her more or less in the dark with regard to the doings of even her immediate neighbors?”

Language would be an even bigger problem, he thought.”There are frequent occasions in herding when the feelings seethe in the herder’s bosom like white-hot steam in an engine boiler. His anguish finds vent in language that he has picked up at odd times around garages, stables, poker games and from autoists who were changing tires. Women, not having frequented these places, would be at a distinct disadvantage.”

Gilfillan liked women. He just didn’t think they should be sheepherders. But he disdained cowboys.”Is there any intrinsic reason why the man who takes care of cattle should be a romantic, half-mythical figure, while the man who takes care of sheep is either a joke or anathema?” he wrote in Sheep.

Gilfillan argued that the sheepherder was superior to the cowboy because he was his own boss most of the time while the cowboy”may be able to carry more than one day’s orders in his head, but he seldom has the opportunity of proving it.”

In spite of that, he acknowledged that,”every kid in the range country looks forward to the day when he can get hold of hair pants, a ten-gallon hat, a Miles City saddle and a pair of big spurs, and then cultivate a bow-legged walk and hire out to a cattleman.”

Gilfillan gave a commencement address at Buffalo on May 22, 1930, and the graduating seniors enjoyed his sharp, western wit. He quipped,”I have the suspicion that Prof. Chanson has asked me to appear before these graduates to serve as a warning, so that they can see what may happen to them if they do not watch their step and be just a little bit careful.”

The herder-author often referred to himself as a Phi Beta Kappa gone wrong. The Gilfillans were a literary family. Archie’s grandfather wrote The Origin of Sin. He surmised that it was not a commercial success because people are more interested in their daily practice of sin than finding its origin.

Archie’s father, a minister like his grandfather, wrote an unsuccessful book trying to restrain people from seeking what they wanted. S.C. Gilfillan, Archie’s brother, wrote books, too, and his nieces also enjoyed writing.

At Spearfish, Gilfillan became a freelance writer for several South Dakota newspapers but money was scarce. In 1936 he published A Shepherd’s Holiday. It was 52 stories collected from his newspaper articles and published at Custer.

Late in life, he also authored A Goat’s Eye View of the Black Hills, with assistance from longtime friend Hoadley Dean of Rapid City. He retold many legends of the South Dakota mountain towns, adding his personal perspectives and a big dose of his dry humor.

He also explained in the book why he remained a bachelor.”You profess sincere and unbounded admiration for the beauties of the opposite sex and you practically lay your heart at their collective feet; and then you meet some individual who combines the poorer qualities of a mama wildcat and a bitch wolf, with a voice like a buzz saw, the temper of a slapped hornet, and a disposition that would curdle the milk in four adjoining counties. And then you have to revise your opinion of the sex all over again ññ and downward.” In short, he never met a woman he liked who would have him as a husband.

The Great Depression spread across South Dakota before local writers heard about the Federal Writer’s Project (FWP) being promoted by Eleanor Roosevelt. Unemployed writers were hired to interview old-timers, search files and records, collect folklore, and preserve the history, culture and contemporary life of American communities.

The project was considered a work program and no one expected it to produce anything of lasting value. Today, the books and material these men gathered and wrote are valuable treasures. M. Lisle Reese, a talented Montana native, was hired as director of South Dakota’s Federal Writers Project and he hired Gilfillan as his assistant.

He stayed until the project ended in the spring of 1942. For the next seven years he worked at the Black Hills Ordinance Depot at Provo (Igloo). He wrote for the Igloo Magazine, did clerical work and served as librarian. When that job ended in 1949 he moved to Deadwood. In failing health, he lived in retirement.

When Gilfillan retired to Deadwood, he stayed at the Wagner Hotel. He usually sat on a straight back chair and read a book or walked along Deadwood streets, visiting with his neighbors.

While enjoying a walk on December 17, 1955, he dropped to the sidewalk. He had moved on to greener pastures.

Family and friends buried the old sheepherder at Belle Fourche. But Gilfillan’s bad luck continued even in death. They buried him beside two great cowboys, Paul Bernard and Joe LaFlamme.

EDITOR’S NOTE — This story is revised from the Nov/Dec 1996 issue of South Dakota Magazine. Paul Hennessey was teacher, and also worked as a private investigator on the West Coast. Hennessey knew Archer Gilfillan during the sheepherder’s years at Igloo. To order this back issue or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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History Hunters

Can we stop the illegal artifact trade?

 

Faith Spotted Eagle, a Yankton Sioux tribal elder, is an outspoken protector of sacred sites and burial grounds. Artifact looting is a common problem at sites such as those on South Dakota reservations and along the Missouri River valley.

Faith Spotted Eagle was fishing with her father the first time she saw artifact hunters searching the banks of the Missouri River.”My dad was disgusted,” Spotted Eagle says.”He looked at me and said, ‘You know, my girl, you’re going to have to do something about this someday.’ I was only 12 years old. I thought, ‘What am I going to do?’ But that stayed with me.”

The memory rushed back one morning in 1999 as Spotted Eagle traveled Highway 18 toward the Yankton Sioux Reservation.”I was coming across the dam and I had this weird feeling,” she remembers.”We call it nagi ksapa, which means spirit smart. It’s an awareness, or a sixth sense. I could feel my father’s presence, and I knew something was going on.”

When she arrived, Spotted Eagle learned that the remains of at least 35 of her ancestors buried along the Missouri River at White Swan had been exposed by lowered water levels, and looters were plundering the graves. She and members of the Yankton Sioux Tribe set up a spiritual camp at the site where they prayed and held sweat lodges. They obtained a temporary restraining order that prevented the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers from raising the water until the remains could be gathered and re-interred on higher ground. The process took three months but looters lingered. Once, while Spotted Eagle walked a remote country road, two men in a car stopped and asked directions to White Swan. They said they were divers.

Ten years after White Swan, Spotted Eagle sees boats lurking near the old gravesites. Looting still happens regularly on the Yankton reservation and on other public lands in South Dakota. Millions of years ago prehistoric creatures roamed the Great Plains. Humans arrived about 12,000 years ago. The bones and artifacts they left behind can be worth a lot of money in today’s artifact trade, a worldwide industry that is as lucrative as it is illegal.

Some parts of South Dakota are archaeologically richer than others, but valuable artifacts can be found everywhere within the state’s borders, according to Michael Fosha, assistant state archaeologist with the Archaeological Research Center in Rapid City.”There’s an incredible wealth and diversity of material that can be recovered in South Dakota,” Fosha says.

Bone tools, groundstone materials (like atlatl weights, arrowpoints, scrapers and other specialized tools) as well as artifacts made from shell can be found.”The shell items can be quite exotic,” Fosha says,”all the way from large shell mask gorgets made out of conch shell to small shells etched with human-like forms or animals. They might even be carved themselves into shell beads to be worn as decoration.”

Looters search for”anything and everything” on the Cheyenne River Reservation, says Donna Rae Petersen, the tribe’s cultural programs administrator. Like Spotted Eagle she was young when her mother and great-grandmother took her to the Missouri River to watch as men working on the dams sifted through the exposed graves of her ancestors. It’s the same all along the Missouri River shoreline, a popular destination for artifact hunters because South Dakota’s earliest inhabitants settled in the river valley.”The Missouri River has been here a long time,” says Richard Harnois, senior field archaeologist for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in Pierre.”People have populated the river for 12,000 years. When people live in an area like that for that long, it leaves a lot of stuff behind. That creates the archaeological sites that these people are interested in.

“Some of these guys are what we call human vacuum cleaners,” Harnois says.”They go out and just suck up everything they find, with seemingly no rhyme or reason.”

More experienced hunters are selective. They know what to take and what to leave.”As they’re digging, they go to their favorite sites, knowing what age the artifacts are and what they hope to obtain,” Fosha says.”They have a good eye for what’s valuable.” Those items include ceramic pots that are intact or can be easily reassembled, large conch shell masks, pipes and arrow points depending on quality and age.

Artifacts and fossils on private land are not protected but federal laws prohibit removing them from public lands. The Archaeological Resources Protection Act (passed in 1979) bans removal of funerary objects, sacred items and human remains from public or Indian land without a permit. The Native American Graves Protection and Repatriation Act (1990) provides a way to return those artifacts to the tribes if they are uncovered. But looting along the river occurred long before their enactment.”It started with families out digging this stuff, taking it home and hanging it on their walls,” Harnois says.”So there’s this background of collecting that goes back a long way that leads people to think it’s not a bad thing to go out and do this.”

Scavengers know exactly what they’re doing, while others are simply unaware of the laws.”A lot of times, they’re not really trying to be felons,” Fosha says.”They just happen across an artifact, they find it of great interest and they pick it up and take it home. It’s still illegal, but quite a bit of it is not knowing it’s illegal.”

Others consider themselves amateur archaeologists and work with professionals like Fosha when they make discoveries on their land.”We certainly encourage them to give us the information, but we don’t necessarily encourage them to go out and dig things up,” Fosha says. When that happens, artifacts lose their context. It’s more difficult for archaeologists to assess an artifact’s importance if they don’t know exactly where it was found and what other items, if any, surrounded it.

People have been prosecuted under those laws in South Dakota, but Marty Jackley, South Dakota’s attorney general and former U.S. Attorney for South Dakota, says looters are being caught with more items than ever. In January, five men — four South Dakotans and one from Wisconsin — were indicted on artifact trafficking charges, accused of taking more than 10,000 artifacts (including human remains, funerary objects and pottery), mostly from the Missouri River valley. All pled guilty except one: Scott Matteson of Fort Pierre. Matteson is a lifelong collector who turned his 7,000-piece collection into the Mobile Museum of the Prehistoric Plains Indians, which authorities seized in December 2008. South Dakota might be the most diverse state in North America when it comes to fossils, says Darrin Pagnac, a vertebrate paleontologist at the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology in Rapid City. That lures fossil poachers, particularly to Badlands National Park and publicly owned lands in northwestern South Dakota, the two fossil hotspots in western South Dakota. Pagnac says his field research team finds at least one looted site every summer.”One of the first hints is holes where they shouldn’t be,” Pagnac says.”The second good clue is bits of plaster lying around, because that’s how we excavate the fossils. We wrap them in burlap soaked in Plaster of Paris. It’s almost impossible to do that completely cleanly, so it drips and little chunks of it fall. And sometimes we’ll find trash and tools.

“They’re looking for the most spectacular specimens they can find. They want pristine skull elements, teeth, or complete skulls. Anything that looks impressive that will up the resale value of these things are what they’re after.”

Keeping watch over culturally important sites is challenging. Looters often work under cover of darkness, their presence detected only when officers find holes dug in the ground. Cheyenne River reservation has one monitor enforcement officer, Halley Maynard, who knows the locations of particularly valuable sites and is responsible for protecting them. Locals know about most sites, but if word spreads, artifact hunters are tempted to find them.

Maynard patrols the shoreline by boat and the rest of the reservation’s three million acres by truck, ATV and mule for the most remote spots. He’s never caught looters in action during two years on the job, but he has seen the damage they inflict. In the spring of 2007 low river levels exposed a burial site in the northeast corner of the reservation.”They dug 17 holes in the bank,” Maynard says.”Because of what they did, plus the good rainfall and the rise of the river, it eroded half of that site. We couldn’t save it.”

The tribe has signs on all of the reservation’s main highways alerting motorists of its no-dig, no collection policy, in place since 1966. Still, Petersen and other tribal members can’t understand the fascination artifact hunters have with disturbing the graves of their ancestors.

“I have family buried in several cemeteries, but going back five generations, I have a grandmother who is buried on a hill a mile behind my house,” Petersen says.”Those are family cemeteries, but why do people feel that because they are Native Americans it’s OK to rob those graves? If a body washes out on the shore of the Missouri River and there are artifacts that are readily available, people pick those, as well as the skeletal remains. Why do people feel that Native American human remains and funerary items are any different?”

The biggest reason is money. Artifacts sell for hundreds of dollars and some fossils can go for tens of thousands of dollars.”Almost anything that’s really attractive and well-prepared is going to have a market somewhere, legitimate or otherwise,” says Sally Shelton, collections manager at the Museum of Geology at the School of Mines.”For every museum or nonprofit that buys something like that, which is not very common, there are 10 times as many people buying it for private possession. People love these things and they want to have them at home. The problem is, many of these things are dug up so fast they lose all the associated information with them, and they’re no longer valuable scientifically or educationally.”

The Internet auction site eBay.com is a popular marketplace for Native American artifacts. A search for”Indian artifacts” returns over 1,000 results, including arrowheads, grind stones, baskets, pipes and tomahawks. The price for one collection of hand tools was $500.

Family auctions and reputable auction houses also market artifacts. Petersen says she’s seen items from the Battle of the Little Bighorn and Wounded Knee sold at auction.”I think people just look at this like a nostalgia thing, but they don’t connect these things to human blood, or somebody losing a life,” she says.”The eyes of the law are so few and far between, especially when it comes to the river,” Petersen says.

That may have been true in the past, but people like Petersen urge law enforcement to more seriously pursue thefts, and they’re asking for help. Harnois directs people to call the Corps’ hotline at 1-866-NO-SWIPE (1-866-667-9473) if they spot suspicious activity.

“If people are considering doing anything illegal, they better take care because chances are somebody’s going to be looking over their shoulder,” Harnois says.”There are a lot of eyes and ears out there.”

 

EDITOR’S NOTE — This story is revised from the Nov/Dec 2009 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order this back issue or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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Clamming on the James

Clams once thrived in the clean, steady waters of the James River

Clamming pioneer “Fisher Bill” Richards spent most of his life digging clams and living in a tent along the James River.

Clams still lie in the beds of some South Dakota rivers and lakes, but 100 years ago they filled the James River and created a thriving business. People from Mitchell to Yankton spent summers prying the mussels from the muddy river bottom and then sent the shells east to become pearl buttons.

Families set up summertime clamming camps along the river. A hub developed near Tuscan, a water station about four miles southwest of Menno in Hutchinson County where the river and railroad met. Trains got water for the steam engines and clammers loaded their harvest into railcars, which took them to button factories in towns along the Mississippi River like Muscatine (the Pearl Button Capital of the World), Davenport and Guttenberg in Iowa.

Clammers were busy on other area waters, like the Vermillion and the Minnesota River across the border in Yellow Medicine County, Minn., but the demand for clamshells and the abundance of mussels in the James River made Tuscan the”Mother of Pearl Capital of the World” by the 1890s. Trains regularly left Tuscan loaded with clamshells. Once the Hutchinson Herald reported a train headed east with 17 boxcars full of shells, worth $35 per ton.

The murky Missouri River held few clams.”At one time the Missouri River was the ‘Big Muddy,'” says Doug Backlund, a wildlife biologist with the state Game, Fish and Parks department’s Natural Heritage Program.”It was a big, turbid river with a shifting bottom. That’s not a good habitat for clams. Clams like clear streams with a fairly firm substrate that doesn’t shift around a lot.” Hundreds of years ago, the Missouri’s tributaries in southeastern South Dakota — the James, Vermillion and Big Sioux rivers — were cleaner and more stable, providing prime habitats for clams that arrived attached to fish and then burrowed into the river bottom.

Robert Coker and John Southall, working for the U.S. Bureau of Fisheries, explored the James River’s mussel beds from its source in North Dakota to its mouth southeast of Yankton in the summer of 1913. They found few decent shells until they reached Riverside, near Mitchell, where they discovered a large commercial shelling operation. A pair of fishermen there took 20 tons of shells from the river. Three miles downstream another man had harvested 15 tons. The busiest stretch of the river was from Milltown to Yankton, where clammers dug 400 tons of shells by the time Coker and Southall visited late in the season.

Arnold Diede built boats (top) for he and his wife, Evelyn, to use during clamming expeditions near Menno, South Dakota. After cleaning clams, they piled shells at their camp near Milltown (bottom) before trains carried them East to button factories.

Arnold and Evelyn Diede were newlyweds when they began clamming near Menno in 1929. That spring Arnold built a boat using the engine from a Ford car. He fashioned a digger out of a 2×4, an iron shovel and a hand-woven basket that could hold 100 pounds of clams. The Diedes attached the digger to the front of the boat and Arnold pried clams from the mud while Evelyn drove.

“Arnold would drop the digger to the bottom of the river, the power of the motor pulling the digger along on the bottom of the river as we rode over the clam bed,” Evelyn wrote in a family history book years later.”By holding the handle Arnold could feel what sort of clam bed it was, how long and wide, also how deep. When the basket was full, he would tell me to turn around on the river and as I did so, it aided Arnold in lifting up the full basket. He then would dump the clams onto the boat and lower the basket again and I would follow the same line we had taken before and repeat the whole process.”

Another method was used for clams in shallow water. The Diedes ran a small boat and dug them out by hand.”We used to wade in mud 4 to 6 inches deep,” Evelyn recalled.”It seemed we always had clothes hanging on the line.”

When the boat was fully loaded they returned to their riverside camp. The Diedes used a homemade cooker placed over an 18-inch deep pit near the riverbank to steam the clams open. Then they removed the meat and threw the shells in a pile. Farmers used the discarded meat as pig feed, while rotten meat became catfish bait. Buyers paid the Diedes $25 to $35 per ton for their clamshells, depending on the quality.

Clamming attracted unique characters. Bill Richards, a clamming pioneer, spent much of his life in a tent by the river west of Menno. Known as”Fisher Bill,” Richards lived a rough life before moving to Tuscan. Originally from New York, he spent his early years in an Illinois orphanage. He ran away at age 14 and found work with a railroad crew at Council Bluffs, Iowa. One day a prairie fire burned him so badly his co-workers thought he was dead. He crawled to the Missouri River where a settler found him and cared for him until he regained his strength. Fisher Bill then went to Tuscan, where he spent years clamming and living year-round in the tent. When Bill was 80, townspeople convinced him to move the tent into Menno. He lived behind the funeral home, where a small creek and wooded area replicated his longtime home along the James. He died in 1954 at age 92.

Another clam fisherman was known as Swede Al. He worked the James River from its mouth to Mission Hill. Longtime Yankton County resident Paul Nelson remembered that Swede Al’s territory was limited because his big houseboat couldn’t fit under the railroad bridge west of town.

Nelson, born in 1915, grew up in a”tar paper shack” along the James River. He saw many clam boats, but Swede Al had the biggest operation.”Other people used to fish for clams, but not like he did,” Nelson said when South Dakota Magazine visited him before he died in 2009.”That was his life.”

Some clammers worked solely to find pearls. Fisher Bill found and sold a few pearls, as did the Diedes. One pearl looked like a strawberry and brought them $15. Evelyn had two silver rings made with small pearls. Nelson’s uncle and aunt, Matthew and Nancy Seddon, bought clam meat and pearls from Swede Al. Men searching for pearls on the Vermillion River at Centerville found $500 worth by the time Coker and Southall arrived.

But most Dakota pearls were poor.”They weren’t shaped well and they were colored,” Nelson told us.”They weren’t like the pearls that were on the market from oysters, but you could make a pretty good necklace.” Two-thirds of the pearls in the Riverside fisherman’s 20-ton haul were worthless. Evelyn Diede thought it was because valuable pearls are found in clearer water, and”Jim River water was always dirty and muddy,” she wrote.

Clamming boomed from the late 1800s through the early 1900s. Over harvesting and environmental changes nearly wiped out the James River’s clams by the 1940s. The railroad left and Tuscan disappeared. And the emergence of plastic buttons brought an end to the American clamshell button industry. In 2002 Backlund and Keith Perkins, a biology professor at the University of Sioux Falls, studied the James River’s mussel population. It was the first scientific study of its clams since Coker and Southall’s nearly 90 years earlier. They found live clams, but only a handful for every hour of searching, and many long dead shells, indicating their former abundance. Today one of the best places to find clams is in the Missouri River below Gavins Point Dam. The firm bottom and clean, warm water the dam releases create a perfect habitat.”The Big Muddy is now the nice, clear river with a good habitat for clams, and the Jim River and Big Sioux River have become turbid and muddy,” Backlund says.”There are still some species that thrive there, but not the same ones that used to be there.”

Though clamming on the James ended in the 1930s, artifacts from the era can still be found. The Menno Heritage Museum has a clamshell button display along with an old rake used for clam digging. Elmer Mueller, who lives southwest of Menno a quarter mile from the James River, has a few clamshells. He also found a clam rake along the riverbank near his home. And the Diedes’ granddaughter, Debbie Palmer, has a small jar of pearls Arnold and Evelyn found during their clamming summers. They’re all reminders of an era when people living in the James River valley could make money off corn, cattle or clams.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the May/June 2009 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.