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Fine Fermenting

I started drinking kombucha a few years ago. Maybe you’ve seen it in your nearest health food store. It’s a beverage fermented from black tea, sugar and a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY). I like the tart flavor and refreshing fizziness. The probiotics and nutrients are great, too. But the $4 a bottle price tag makes me cringe. A friend gave me a starter SCOBY (it looked like a flat mushroom cap) to brew my own, but I was too nervous. I’d heard rumors of people dying from bad homebrews.

That’s why I was excited to find Cultures for Health, a website headquartered in Sioux Falls with an abundance of fermentation information and products. Founder Julie Feickert became interested in healthy living after her first child was born.”I took a class on living sustainably and learned about eating a whole foods diet and the amazing number of fermented foods you could make at home,” Feickert says. She purged her cupboards of processed foods and started making her own yogurt, kombucha, kefir and sauerkraut. And the more she made, the more she realized the need for a website with quality instructions, recipes and starter cultures.

“Meanwhile, I was facing a decision to go back to work teaching at night,” Feickert says.”My son was still quite young, and I really didn’t want to leave him, so I was looking for a way to work from home.” In 2009 she built a simple website and stocked a few products.”It took off beyond anything I had ever imagined.”

Cultures for Health now offers over 350 products for at-home fermentation and has a staff of 20. Feickert moved her business headquarters and her family from Portland, Oregon, to Sioux Falls in 2012.”We needed to be more centrally located to better control the quality of shipping perishable products and keep shipping costs and transit times as low as possible for our customers,” Feickert says.”Sioux Falls had a great mix of excellent shipping conditions, affordable living and a safe place to raise our young children.”

I haven’t made my own kombucha yet, but I feel more confident to try. Feickert’s website has a wealth of “how-to” videos and articles and sells pH indicator strips for the squeamish to test when the beverage is ready. And besides kombucha, they have products for yogurt, kefir, sourdough, buttermilk, cheese and more to help people ferment confidently.

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Wild Asparagus Secrets

Across the state, little spires are poking through the grass in roadside ditches, creek beds and under giant cottonwoods. Tender and with a flavor unlike anything from the produce section of the grocery store, wild asparagus season is upon us.

My husband always jumps into the hunt with both feet every spring. If he isn’t planting crops until dusk (and sometimes even if he is), I can guarantee that at least one night each week his return home for supper will be significantly later than he has told me it would be. However, when he walks in the door with the most gorgeous bouquet of freshly cut wild asparagus, I forgive him.

Even in the unending (but much needed) rains of Mother’s Day weekend, my asparagus warrior couldn’t stay away from stalking the stalks. He presented me with two armfuls of delicious green stems of asparagus.

As I arranged one harvest on my cutting board for a quick photo, he was genuinely alarmed that I planned to share the glory of our bounty on the Facebook page for my blog, On My Plate. Just like a hunter doesn’t want to give away the location of a trophy whitetail, Hubs holds the whereabouts of his asparagus hunting grounds close to the vest. When someone questions him about the prize asparagus patches, he usually says,”west of Minneapolis.” If pressed further, he will concede that the area is more specifically”north of Springview, Nebraska and south of I-90.”

It isn’t that difficult to find your own wild asparagus hunting ground. The plants like damp, undisturbed soil. Ditches and fence lines are common spots. In the spring, look for the dried, yellowed remains of bushy, almost tumbleweed-like growths. These are the branchy stalks of asparagus that grew up and went to seed. At the base, new sprouts will be growing.

Hubs is insistent that no matter where you hunt (and especially if you stumble into his territory) that you cut your harvest properly. Never, NEVER, just snap the heads off the stems. This tragedy essentially ends the production of the plant. Always cut asparagus shoots as close to the ground as possible. When cut at (or just below) the ground, the root will continue to send up new stalks and provide a crop to enjoy all season long.

We love to simply steam asparagus and serve with a little butter, salt, pepper and maybe a squeeze of lemon. Roasting in a hot oven after tossing with olive oil, salt and pepper is another favorite quick dinner prep for us. However, the cooler weather of this early wild asparagus season is very fitting for soup. Asparagus Ravioli in Parmesan Broth is the unlikely combination of both light and filling. The asparagus and mascarpone-filled pasta pouches could easily be drenched with a creamy sauce for a traditional pasta meal, but the rich Parmesan broth is perfect for spring. The flavors are green and earthy — everything asparagus should be.

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their two dogs ranch near Colome.


Asparagus Ravioli in Parmesan Broth

(adapted from Gourmet Magazine)

1 pound asparagus, trimmed

5 cups chicken stock

1 rind from a wedge of Parmesan cheese

1 bay leaf

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup mascarpone cheese

1/4 cup fine dry bread crumbs

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 package wonton wrappers

Cut off asparagus tips and set aside.

Bring stock, cheese rind and bay leaf to a simmer.

Add asparagus stems and cook uncovered until stems are tender.

Transfer stems to paper towels and cool slightly. Reserve broth.

Puree asparagus stems in a food processor with grated Parmesan, mascarpone, breadcrumbs, zest, and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

Arrange wonton wrappers on a work surface and place 1 tablespoon of the asparagus filling in the center of each.

Working with one at a time, moisten the edges with water and lay another wrapper on top; seal the edges, pressing out any air.

Repeat with the remaining wrappers and asparagus filling.

Bring a pasta pot of salted water to a boil, then reduce to a gentle boil.

Bring reserved broth to a simmer; add asparagus tips and simmer until tender.

Season broth with salt and pepper (to taste, if needed) and divide it and asparagus tips between 6 shallow bowls; discard cheese rind and bay leaf.

Add a few of the ravioli to gently boiling water, carefully stirring to separate. Cook until pasta is tender, 2-3 minutes.

Lift ravioli with a slotted spoon, draining well over the pot, and transfer to bowls with broth.

Repeat with remaining ravioli. (Serves 6)

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Fiesta on the Fifth

Most of us know May 5 is a Mexican holiday. Some wrongly assume it is Mexican Independence Day, but Cinco de Mayo is actually the observance of a military victory against France. But aside from Puebla, where the famous battle occurred, I am told that most of Mexico doesn’t actively celebrate Cinco de Mayo. It is just another day.

Americans have never met a holiday we don’t like to celebrate. Areas with a greater Mexican-American population host festivals, parades, and parties for Cinco de Mayo that honor Mexican culture and heritage. For much of rest of the nation the holiday is synonymous with”2 for 1″ taco and margarita deals. While this is a more commercial and less authentic observance of the historical significance of Cinco de Mayo, tacos and margaritas are certainly delicious. I am on board.

Sausage and Feta Tacos are a super simple take on a Mexican classic. This recipe calls for hot Italian sausages, which certainly isn’t authentic, but combined with sautÈed red onion and cumin has huge flavor. While the seasoning is a different flavor profile, this combination reminds me of the intensity of good Mexican chorizo sausage. Crumbled feta cheese also varies from traditional queso, but adds a distinctive tang. Make your own tortillas for the best soft tacos, but there is no shame in purchased tortillas. I am always lucky enough to have stock of my home-canned Basic Salsa in my pantry for the final punch of spiciness as I load tacos on my plate in celebration of Cinco de Mayo.


Sausage and Feta Tacos

(adapted from Bon Appetit)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 hot Italian sausages, casings removed

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon cumin

4 small flour tortillas

1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 1/3 cups sliced romaine lettuce

bottled salsa

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add sausage, crumble, and cook until brown. Push sausage to the side of the skillet. Add onion and cumin. SautÈ until onion is tender and sausage is cooked through. Stir to combine.

Char tortillas over gas flame or electric burner until blackened in spots (about 10 seconds), turning with tongs. Wrap in foil and let stand 2 minutes. Fill each tortilla with sausage mixture, feta, cilantro, and lettuce. Serve with salsa. (Serves 4.)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their two dogs ranch near Colome.

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New Traditions Are Rising

When I was a kid, Easter always meant ham. Of course, many Sunday dinners meant ham in my childhood home. It was easy for my mother to toss a bone-in picnic ham into the oven before loading the brood into the car and heading to Sunday school and church. Returning to the smoky, salty aroma filling the house was wonderful. Potatoes were boiled and mashed. A vegetable was prepped. Dinner rolls were warmed. Gravy was made. Easter dinner — or any random Sunday dinner — was served.

When I began hosting my own spring holiday dinners, I also leaned heavily on that big, baked ham. I experimented by adding a sweet and cidery raisin gravy, whipped spinach into my mashed potatoes, vibrant fruit salads and all the fresh asparagus I could find. Lemon and strawberry pies hit the table for dessert, and dinner was served.

These days, family and friends are pulled in many different directions every holiday. Sometimes, I get to place an eggcup with pastel-dyed eggs at each place setting of a big Easter table, and sometimes it’s just Hubs and me. With only two of us, I tend to pull away from standard dinner traditions. We might do brunch and pizza later, or maybe the Ham and Asparagus Lasagna recipe that I tried last year with the garden’s bounty of fresh asparagus.

Ham and Asparagus Lasagna has the familiar flavors of Easter dinner with the added comfort of pasta, cheese and a creamy sauce. The alluring layers are not a letdown for a special holiday table, and the dish would pair beautifully with a bright spring salad, garlicky dinner rolls, and (of course) something lemon or strawberry for dessert. Perhaps a new Easter dinner tradition could rise from Ham and Asparagus Lasagna.

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their two dogs ranch near Colome.


Ham and Asparagus Lasagna

(adapted from Rachael Ray)

1 pound asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound lasagna noodles

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup flour (I like Wondra for sauces and gravies.)

4 1/2 cups whole milk (I may or may not have subbed heavy cream for part of this milk.)

2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese (Put away that green can and buy a wedge of real cheese to grate yourself. You won’t regret it.)

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound deli-sliced baked ham, cut into 1/2-inch ribbons (Diced ham would also work.)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Cook asparagus in the boiling water until tender (about 2 minutes). Remove from pot with a slotted spoon and drain well.

Bring the water back to a boil and cook the lasagna noodles according to package directions (about 8 minutes). Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened. Stir in the flour and cook a few minutes. Slowly whisk in the milk and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking constantly, until thickened. Remove from heat; stir in half of the Parmesan and half of the nutmeg; season with salt and pepper.

Spread about 1/3 cup of the cheese sauce into a 9×13-inch baking dish. Layer 4 noodles on the sauce and top with 3/4 cup cheese sauce. Sprinkle 1/4 of the ham, 1/4 of the asparagus and 3 tablespoons Parmesan over the sauce. Repeat the layering process 3 more times. Top with the remaining noodles, cheese sauce, Parmesan and nutmeg.

Cover with foil and bake about 30 minutes. Uncover and bake 10 additional minutes. Let stand 10-15 minutes before serving. (Serves 6)

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Need for Green

It is April, and I am experiencing winter fatigue. The weather forecast is littered with snowflakes and temperatures that still require winter coats, hats, gloves and a survival kit in my car if I dare attempt a road trip. It is cold. It is gray. It is dreary. And I am over it.

Usually I am a lover of all seasons. I rush into the first snowfall to make snow angels. My pups and I crunch through fallen leaves in the autumn. I revere the first buds on trees and watching the lawn and gardens awaken. I even worship the sun’s rays on the hottest days of summer. But I have had enough of the snow, enough of the dull and dead brown, enough of the ice, enough wind, enough brutal cold — enough of this never ending winter.

I want green. Fresh. Vibrant. Green.

There are a few blades of grass greening in my backyard, but Mother Nature threatens to dump more snow in the next few days. For now, I think I’m stuck with the green of my home-canned salsa verde.

Last summer’s garden was prolific with tomatillos. Much sauce and salsa was made, consumed, and immensely enjoyed, and my pantry shelves still boast a few prized jars of this green treasure. We use it as a base for the sauce to slowly braise a pork stew, dunk our tortilla chips and quesadillas in it and spoon it over our favorite enchiladas. It is fresh, vibrant and green — just what I am craving during these last days of an ugly long winter.

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their two dogs ranch near Colome.


Salsa Verde for Home-Canning

**If you are unsure of the canning process, there are many informative sites online. I am not a canning authority.**

6 cups tomatillos, chopped

3 cups onions, chopped

3 jalapeno peppers, chopped

6 garlic cloves, chopped

1/2 cup roasted green chiles, chopped

1/2 cup cilantro, chopped (divided)

1/2 cup lemon juice

3 teaspoons cumin

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

Combine the tomatillos, onions, jalapenos, garlic, green chiles, HALF of the cilantro, lemon juice, cumin, salt and pepper in a large, heavy stock pot. Stir frequently until mixture begins to boil. Reduce heat and allow to simmer 20 minutes.

Using an immersion blender, puree the sauce until smooth. (Alternatively, working in batches, carefully blend in a conventional blender to desired texture and return to the stock pot). Add remaining chopped cilantro and stir to combine and simmer briefly. (The cilantro could all be included prior to simmering and blending, but saving some back ensures some”pretty” deeper green flecks in the salsa.)

Ladle into sterilized jars with 1/2-inch head space and seal. Process in a hot water bath for 20 minutes. (Yield: 6 pints)

Note: Additional jalapenos can make a spicier sauce. More cumin will enhance the smokiness. Roasting the tomatillos prior to simmering offers a slightly richer and sweeter flavor. Adding roasted poblano peppers (peeled, seede, and chopped) is a deeper sauce. We had A LOT of tomatillos, and I made many variations of this recipe. This is only a basic idea and can be adjusted to your own tastes.

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My Problem with Corned Beef and Cabbage

With St. Patrick’s Day upon us, it’s an opportune time to share my tried and true recipe for corned beef and cabbage. Slow cooker haters be warned: it is made in the Crock-Pot.

I am not exactly a fan of the Crock-Pot. I have a love/hate relationship with it: love the ease, but hate how textures can suffer and flavors often meld, and not into that happy marriage that mingles on your taste buds. Flavors meld into a pot of everything tastes the same.

Corned beef seems to be the right type of meat for Crock-Pot cooking. It benefits from the low and slow process. Several hours of braising in flavorful broth produces tender servings of this cured meat. Most commercially available corned beef briskets come with a seasoning packet of pickling spices. Feel free to add it to the broth if you wish, but I don’t. Worcestershire sauce, dry mustard and caraway seeds spice up the cooking liquid for me.

The vegetables are where this recipe is a problem. It is the point where Crock-Pots fail. I have tried to prepare my corned beef without a layer of potatoes, carrots and onions in the bottom of the casserole, but these roots do add something to the flavor of the cooking liquid. It isn’t the same without them, but I don’t want to eat them. I like the pickled flavor of a corned beef brisket. I don’t want everything on my plate to taste like it, though.

The tender cabbage leaves don’t need a super long cooking time, and when I finally add them to the simmering stock I often start prep for alternative side dishes. Mashed potatoes whipped with spinach and a bowl of buttered corn varies the textures and offers contrasting flavors. The potatoes, carrots and onions cooked with the corned beef make it to the serving platter, but not on my plate.

Am I forsaking the luck of the Irish by not eating the slow-cooked potatoes? What’s your take on Crock-Pot cooking? Any tips to make every meal a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow?


Corned Beef and Cabbage

2 to 2-1/2 pounds corned beef brisket

1 medium onion, cut into wedges

4 medium potatoes, quartered

4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into thirds

1 cup beef broth

2 bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1-2 teaspoons caraway seeds

1 small cabbage, cut into wedges

Trim the fat-cap from the brisket and (if necessary), cut to fit into crock pot.

Arrange onion, carrots and potatoes in the bottom of the crock pot; place the brisket on top.

Whisk together broth, Worcestershire sauce, dry mustard, and caraway seeds.

Pour over the corned beef in the crock pot.

Add the bay leaves and garlic cloves to the broth.

Cook on low for 8 to 10 hours.

During last hour or so, add the cabbage wedges to the crock pot and cook until tender. (Serves 4)

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their two dogs ranch near Colome.

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Beeting the Winter Blues

Winter in South Dakota has its challenges. I could complain about the wind, sub-zero temperatures, gray days, and endless, dead, brown of a snowless winter. All are valid criticisms. But do you know what my biggest grievance about winter is? Tomatoes. I miss red, ripe, juicy, garden tomatoes.

Summer spoils me with my backyard garden always overflowing with fruit laden tomato plants. I slice luscious platefuls, add mouth-watering layers to sandwiches, sautÈ wedges with other colorful garden veggies, toss divine dices with hot and cold pastas, and chunk into sumptuous salads.

Winter leaves me cold and blue in the produce aisle. Grocery store tomatoes are pasty. Mealy. Gross. Occasionally, I may stumble upon a semi-decent hot house tomato, but they never really compare to my summer loves.

How do I beat this gloomy winter challenge? With beets. Roasted ruby beets are the perfect vibrancy for my winter salad. Paired with hearty greens (I chose romaine, but you could easily step it up with kale, if you lean that way), the crisp acidity of red onion, and earthy pumpkin seeds, beets are a solid stand in for tomatoes. A dynamic, almost mustardy dressing is the ideal finish for this winter salad that eases my mourning for summer tomatoes.


Beet and Romaine Salad

(adapted from foodloveswriting.com)

2 heads romaine lettuce, chopped

1 large red beet, roasted, peeled, and thinly sliced

1/4 small red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted

Kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

Dressing:

2 shallots, finely diced

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2-4 tablespoons maple syrup (to taste, we liked the added sweetness of more)

dash of cayenne pepper

1/8-1/4 cup olive oil

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the sliced beets on a cutting board and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cut each slice into quarters.

Layer the greens, red onion, beets, and pumpkin seeds in salad bowl.

For the dressing, add finely diced shallot to the mixing cup for a wand blender (or a small food processor). Blend until pulverized. Mix in the lemon juice, maple syrup, cayenne, salt and pepper. Add the olive oil and blend until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Drizzle dressing over salad and toss. (There may be more dressing than needed for your taste. I saved the extra and drizzled over roasted beets and potatoes.) Serves 2 for dinner salads, 4-6 for side salads.

Fran Hill has been blogging about food at On My Plate since October of 2006. She, her husband and their two dogs ranch near Colome.