Posted on Leave a comment

Ten Outdoor Adventures in South Dakota

Where do your outdoor skills and experiences rank in the wild woods, waters and prairies of South Dakota? Do you know the lay of the land? Can you find wild mushrooms? Have you ever seen a gray kneebobber, or the holey rocks of Roberts County? Here are 10 popular activities to help you break the cabin fever of a long winter and enjoy the South Dakota outdoors.

1. BEFRIEND THE MONARCH

Monarch butterflies rank among South Dakota’s most interesting creatures. A butterfly typically hatches here in August, and then as autumn arrives it flies 2,500 miles southward to the Oyamel fir forests where it will hibernate through the winter, often in the same trees as its ancestors. When it reawakens and flies north in the spring it lays eggs, which dramatically shortens its lifespan. Soon it dies. The process repeats itself as the butterflies travel northward. Monarchs that arrive in South Dakota around Mother’s Day are the fourth-generation descendants of those that departed the previous fall.

2. PONDER THE HOLEY ROCKS

One of South Dakota’s great and unresolved mysteries is the”holey rocks” of Roberts County. All of northeast South Dakota is rocky, thanks to glaciers that brought the rocks here 10,000-plus years ago. Some of the biggest boulders have holes about as wide as a quarter. A geologic detective documented 57 such stones in the early years of the 21st century, though there are probably many more. They are not limited to Roberts County. Some have also been discovered in Minnesota and other northern states. One theory is that the stone holes were chiseled as guideposts by Viking explorers who traveled here from Hudson Bay in medieval times, although it requires a rewrite of immigration history.

3. HIKE BUFFALO TRAILS

First, let’s be very clear. We are not suggesting that any of our paying readers should ever intentionally walk near a wild buffalo — unless they can run faster than a horse (because a buffalo can). The big brown galoots have been clocked at 40 mph. Still, it’s a fact that some very cool outdoor trails exist on popular buffalo reserves. Samuel G. Ordway Nature Preserve in northern South Dakota has hiking trails and a buffalo herd, but there’s a fence in between. Wind Cave in the southern Black Hills has 30 miles of hiking trails, and you share the terrain with a herd of 400 bison. Badlands National Park has an”open hike” policy, and that goes for humans and the park’s buffalo so it’s up to the former to be smart. They say if the buffalo notices you then you’re too close … and it may be too late.

4. MUSHROOM HUNTING

South Dakota has many edible mushrooms, but the morel is king. Though the season changes throughout the state, morels are usually found from early April to early May. The best habitat is a moist forest floor, especially near rivers, lakes and swamps. Morels, which only grow in the wild, are difficult to find because they blend into spring’s grassy-brown environment. Look for yellow or tan mushrooms with spongy caps but beware of the false”brain” mushroom. It is toxic. True morels have a honeycomb cap and hollow stems, while false morels are solid. Don’t pull a morel from the ground because it is connected by a hypha to other mushrooms that may soon emerge. Just snip or pinch.

5. STARGAZING

South Dakota has less light pollution than most states, so we should all be amateur stargazers. Badlands National Park is the most enchanting place to watch the stars; park officials offer a Night Sky Program on weekend evenings through the summer. However, rural areas across the state — even in more populated East River — are conducive to seeing the Milky Way and other mysteries of the heavens.

6. GROW A TREE

Statistically-speaking, South Dakota is 4 percent forested. The trouble with statistics is that 99 percent of our approximately 601 million trees are in the Black Hills. Much of our prairie country looks like the aftermath of an immensely successful deforestation program. It’s not that South Dakotans aren’t trying. We once visited a West River ranch and saw a spindly elm tree trying to grow from a crack along the concrete foundation of small barn.”Shouldn’t we pull that out before it widens the crack?” asked our writer. The rancher was horrified.”I’d move the barn before I’d kill that tree!” he exclaimed. Want to do something good for South Dakota’s outdoors? Go plant a tree (or at least leave them alone).

7. PASQUE WATCH

South Dakota’s state flower is the prairie pasque, Pulsatilla patens, a tough and dainty flower that blooms briefly at the first sign of spring. Though it grows throughout the state, many South Dakotans have not seen one in the wild because it blooms so briefly and because it survives best in rugged, natural terrain. The best habitat is north-facing slopes, and the ideal time is just as the snow melts in early April. Finding a patch is a visual treat. For a real challenge, try transplanting a pasque to your garden. Its long roots, developed to survive drought, make it nigh impossible. You’ll have better luck harvesting its seeds, though even that is difficult. It is truly a wild flower, a fitting symbol of springtime in South Dakota.

8. SPOT THE DIPPER

Thirty years ago, a Minnesota birdwatcher alerted South Dakota Magazine that while fishing on Little Spearfish Creek he witnessed a slate-colored bird that could walk under water. He said he reported it at the nearest pool hall, where everyone laughed at his story. They called it a gray kneebobber.”Probably huntin’ for mountain oysters,” laughed one of the locals. Our Minnesota reader later discovered that it was the endangered American dipper, and fortunately the aquatic songbird can still be found in Spearfish and Whitewood creeks in the Northern Hills. Have you seen a dipper and been reluctant to tell anyone for fear of ridicule?

9. TRY SPELUNKING

Even though the Black Hills is home to more than 100 known caves, including several of the world’s longest, spelunking hasn’t caught on like downhill skiing, pheasant hunting or even watching paint dry. Something about the fear of crawling on your belly in the dark through tight canyons shared by bats doesn’t resonate with the outdoors crowd. But add the experience to your bucket list. Wind Cave and Jewel Cave are run by the National Park Service and offer fascinating guided tours, as do several private caves. The names of the passages in Jewel Cave suggest what you’re missing: the Promised Land, the Mind Blower, Boondocks, Wildflower Walk and Spooky Hollow.

10. FIND A FAIRBURN AGATE

South Dakota is heaven for rockhounds, and the Fairburn agate is prized. The state’s official gemstone was first hunted in the moon-like Kern agate beds east of Fairburn in Custer County, but it can also be found in Teepee Canyon west of Custer and elsewhere West River. People have even discovered them mixed with landscape rock and fill material taken from pits near the Cheyenne River. Serious rock hunters have spent days and even weeks searching for Fairburns with no luck, so consider yourself fortunate if you spot even one.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the”South Dakota Outdoor Challenge,” which appeared in the March/April 2023 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

Posted on Leave a comment

A Bouquet of Easter Flowers

Sioux Falls photographer and avid pasqueflower hunter Christian Begeman was shooting photos in the Cave Hills last spring when he noticed a mass of pasques gone to seed. This week, he paid a return visit to northern Harding County in the hopes of capturing the delicate purple blooms.”I thought I got skunked, but then I saw a lone purple spot of color on a ridge just beyond the Forest Service Picnic campgrounds and discovered fifty-plus flowers just starting to poke through.” He decided to share those blossoms with us in honor of the holiday. Happy Easter!

Posted on Leave a comment

Pasqueflower Pursuit

When I decided to seriously pursue capturing outdoor, nature and wildlife photos back in the summer of 2009, one of my highest priorities was to find and photograph the pasqueflower. I had known since grade school that this little prairie flower was our state flower, but I had never seen one. I didn’t know that they grew on the sides of buttes in the part of the state where I grew up. I didn’t know they usually appeared before the pastures turn green. I didn’t know that the truly wild ones only grew on land that has never been tilled. Now, nearly 10 years later, I have learned all these things, plus how to study the weather and snowmelt to gauge when and where to find little patches of one of our first harbingers of spring.

The pursuit of the pasqueflower has now become one of my favorite activities. Depending on the year and the weather, pasqueflowers can appear from as early as mid-March through mid-May all across the state. I’ve seen them in the Black Hills, the Slim Buttes, along the James River, near Big Stone Lake and in the Coteau hills. I found my first pasque of 2019 just a few days ago in Hanson County. This particular patch south of Alexandria near Lake Hanson has been one of the more reliable places to find and photograph the flower. For this column, I thought it would be fun to show and tell a little about the first pasqueflower I’ve found in each spring going back to 2010, as well as share a few more of my favorite pasque portraits. I hope you enjoy the photos half as much as I’ve enjoyed capturing them.

April 6, 2019

The first pasque of 2019 was found at my favorite patch in Hanson County. A couple of honeybees were there before me, enjoying the sweet delicacies of fresh wildflower.


April 8, 2019

With a much ballyhooed winter storm approaching later this week, I decided to go back to shoot my favorite patch in the late evening light on Monday while I still had sunshine.


April 11, 2018

The first of 2018 was found on April 11 in Hanson County. Interestingly enough, April 11 is the date on which I also discovered the first pasques of 2010 and 2011.


April 1, 2017

Not an April fool’s joke, the first pasqueflower of 2017 was found on April 1 after a morning of photographing prairie chickens at Fort Pierre National Grasslands.


March 11, 2016

An unusually warm February and March saw tiny pasqueflowers emerging in the Slim Buttes on March 11, 2016. This is the earliest I’ve ever encountered wild pasqueflowers above ground.


March 20, 2016

This photo is probably my most famous pasqueflower portrait because it ran in a couple of National Geographic‘s online user generated photo columns. The assignment was to photograph what the first day of spring looked like where you live. This was what it looked like at my favorite pasque patch in Hanson County.


March 31, 2015

The first of 2015 included this pasqueflower bouquet found along the Vermillion River hills in McCook County.


April 10, 2014

First pasques of 2014 along a creek that empties into the James River in Hanson County.


April 21, 2014

This is one of my favorite pasque portraits. It was found in the evening sunlight in a rocky roadside ditch in the Coteau Hills of Grant County.


May 5, 2013

This is the latest day for my first pasqueflower (found near Lake Vermillion Recreation Area). This was also the year that produced the devasting ice storm that plagued much of the region in April and set much of the growing season back significantly.


March 14, 2012

The first flower of 2012 was found in a ditch on a hill along a secondary road at the Lake Vermillion Recreation Area.


April 26, 2012

Nearly a month and a half after finding the first of 2012, I found a nice stand in the northern Black Hills above Roughlock Falls near Tinton.


April 11, 2011

The first flowers of 2011 were found in the early evening light just south of Lake Vermillion along the river hills.


April 11, 2010

My very first pasqueflower find and photos were from a sunny April 11 near Hartford Beach State Park in Roberts County.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midco he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.