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Rescuing a Colonial

An original hitching post inspired the equestrian theme on Pierre’s newest bed and breakfast.

Ron Lutz tends to the bridges of South Dakota and the nation by day; by night he has long been the king of hospitality in Pierre, operating hotspots like the Whale Inn, The Flame, the St. Charles and The Falcon.

An engineer with Aaron Swan and Associates, Lutz is also an accomplished vocalist who sometimes sings with Jim Szana, a popular jazz pianist in the Capital City.

He borrowed on all those skills and more when he bought the old house at 635 North Euclid in Pierre’s historic district. The foundation of the 1907 Colonial seemed unstable, but the interior charm won his heart.

“When I got ready to sell the St. Charles, I thought I’d like to have a smaller bed and breakfast,” says Lutz.”I came and looked at it, and it was a wreck but I started to design how it might work and it seemed possible. I wanted it to run more like an inn with separate bathrooms in every room.” So Lutz enlisted the help of Jeremy Phelps, the new business manager at Aaron Swan and Associates. Phelps wrote his master’s thesis on turning a midcentury castle in Germany into a bed and breakfast.

Lutz and Phelps nervously exposed the foundation, cutting away volunteer trees that had grown around the foundation, trapping moisture and causing the settling and cracking. Workers trenched around the exterior basement walls and re-enforced them with concrete.

Then they opted to replace all the electrical and plumbing.”We pulled 7,200 feet of wire for the contractor,” Lutz laughs,”and it didn’t do my shoulders any good.”

They labored to save the old house’s charm.”We wanted to leave it as untouched as possible,” Lutz says, so they painstakingly polished and preserved the”egg and dart” trim molding, sanded and stained the hardwood floors and repaired the original metal lock and key for the big front door.

Ron Lutz used his engineering and hospitality skills to renovate the Hitching Horse.

With the design skills you might expect from an engineer, they were able to convert the five-bedroom home into four bedrooms with four baths — and make every room look as if it was always there.

They decided to call it the Hitching Horse B&B, recognizing an original iron hitching post still standing on the front lawn. They opened to wonderful reviews from travelers in 2009. Guests appreciate the establishment’s architecture and dÈcor, and they rave about the complimentary breakfasts. They’ll cook whatever you wish, but they specialize in gourmet omelets with toast and accompanied by a salsa recipe handed down from Lutz’s mother.

Phelps also partnered with Lutz to open The Equestrian, a 3-stool bar (with more seating in the living room and on the porches.) Lutz, Szana and other Pierre musicians have entertained there many times. The lounge is open six evenings a week, except when the state legislature is in session.

When Lutz bought the house, he was unsure of its history. Since then, he and Phelps have learned that it was built by Lester Clow, a local lumberyard operator. Supreme Court Judge Samuel Cleland Polley lived there in the 1920s and 1930s, followed by the Morrissey and Hansen families.

Members of the Dean Hansen family, who are active in South Dakota horse breeding and racing circles, gather nostalgically at the Hitching Horse on the first Saturday in May for a Kentucky Derby Party. New traditions are growing in one of Pierre’s oldest homes.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the May/June 2018 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Some Things Never Change in S.D.

South Dakotans have patiently awaited the joyful harbingers of spring: a tree beginning to bud, a flash of color from a tulip, grass slowly changing hue from brown to green. But the first sign of spring we received this year was not so welcome. March brought flooding to parts of East River, mixed with a statewide blizzard.

The mid-March storm was no surprise to most of us. We’ve endured our share of spring setbacks. In fact, our March/April issue — published just as the recent storms were gathering — includes a story on the awful historic winter and spring of 1952.

Our longtime writer Paul Higbee began the article with a line that could have made a headline this month:”It was a demon of a blizzard that melted into a monster of a flood.” The January storm of’52 especially hit the Rosebud region of south-central South Dakota. Mission, White River, Winner, Philip, Murdo, Gregory and Pierre were hammered the hardest but the storm swept over the entire state, delivering severe winds and snow from Rapid City to Watertown.

Snowmelt in the spring brought more disaster. High water along the Missouri River valley and its tributaries drove 7,748 people in 17 counties from their homes. Miraculously, there were no fatalities. But 45 houses were destroyed and 584 damaged.

The Rosebud disaster wasn’t the most tragic storm in state history, but it’s one that captured the state’s imagination in part thanks to Laura Hellmann of Millboro, a tiny ranching community in Tripp County. After the storm, she asked 66 writers to quickly submit their survival stories before memories were dulled by time or forgotten. The stories collectively show the tragedy, despair and helplessness that weather can inflict.

Hellmann eventually published the memories in a small book, which she titled Blizzard Strikes the Rosebud. The stories are captivating. A Gregory cafe became home to 32 people for two days; they played cards, listened to the radio and slept in booths. Mildred Benson kept her students at Eden School entertained by organizing a folk dance that went on for two days.

Thor Fosheim, a 75-year-old rancher, rode off on horseback to save his cattle and never returned. Murdo rancher Noel”Pete” Judd went with his nephew to bring his daughters home from school. When their Jeep stalled, the four started walking. Funeral services for all four were held eight days later in Winner.

Most farmers and ranchers didn’t drive four-wheel-drive pickups in the early 1950s, and they didn’t have 100-horsepower tractors with heated cabs and snow blowers. Some of the rescue work was accomplished by foot and on horseback.

However, one thing has remained constant from 1952 to 2019. When times get tough, neighbors and even strangers band together to help one another. Much has changed in South Dakota since 1952. Roads and bridges are better. Dams and levees have been constructed to control flooding. Equipment is better and safer.

But good neighbors are still the greatest blessing when the snow is blowing and the water is rising. It was true in’52 and true in’19.

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Kicking Tires in Pierre

Nobody thinks South Dakota is perfect, but most of us would agree it seems to get along pretty well from day to day. Which makes me wonder what our legislators do in Pierre. Each year, 105 of our best and brightest gather for the session. Most of them are conscientious sorts so they work at least 10 hours a day, if you count the after-hours schmoozing. That’s 42,000 woman/man hours doing what? Is our system of laws really so dilapidated it needs that much tweaking? If South Dakota was a car and required almost two months in the shop every year, we’d surely trade it off.

Be that as it may, our lawgivers can surely spare a few hours to consider these suggestions.

AN ACT TO ENSURE THE HAPPINESS OF FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES

I was noodling through the mall parking lot one day when I happened upon an entire row of big, square, ugly vehicles. You know the breed: ponderous sport utilities and crew cab pickups you need a stepladder to enter, all with beefy tires and four-wheel drive. I was struck by the fact that there wasn’t a speck of mud or dust on any of them. They were all dripping chrome and showroom shiny. I suspect the closest they ever got to rugged terrain was the speed bumps at HyVee.

Not long afterward I saw a picture in the Sioux Falls Argus Leader of one such vehicle up to its door handles in the waters of Skunk Creek. It was found early in the morning, abandoned, and it’s not hard to imagine how it got there. At least two guys. Late. Testosterone and alcohol-fueled bravado/stupidity. Wee-haw. Vroom vroom. I’ve got four-wheel drive. Bet I can make it across. Vroom vroom. Rrrrrr. Clunk. Click. Click. Let’s get out of here before somebody administers a Breathalyzer test.

We can all agree these guys are most likely morons, but think of the favor they did for their vehicle. Most 4X4s these days are forced to live out their lives looking like Tarzan and driving like Jane, never busting through snowdrifts or exploring forests primeval like they were promised when they rolled off the assembly line. This act would require every SUV and vanity truck owner to produce evidence showing they at least drove through a mud puddle in the past year before their vehicle’s license could be renewed. We must end the abuse of these machines before they turn on us and crush us like an old car at a monster truck rally.

AN ACT TO REQUIRE THE MANUAL OPENING OF CERTAIN DOORS

While waiting outside my town’s wellness center one afternoon, I saw quite a few people enter the building. I was astonished by the number of them, able-bodied one and all, most wearing athletic gear and presumably there to exercise, who pressed the button meant to open the door for handicapped people. Young. Old. Male. Female. All made use of the button. Pushing a door open is just too exhausting, apparently.

Such behavior should be discouraged. By this act, all able-bodied individuals will be required to open their own doors. Those who don’t will get a temporary tattoo on the forehead that reads, “Lazy.” A week of being so branded seems about right.

If this law works out, follow-up legislation may mandate a “Selfish” tattoo for people who use two parking spaces for one car, and “Pigheaded” for those who get in the express checkout line with more than 10 items and refuse to move, knowing the clerk will give in to get the line moving. Citizens will be encouraged to submit their own ideas; soon there will be a dozen, a hundred, a thousand ways to get tattooed. No longer will we have to suffer in silence. Each of our pet peeves will be elevated to the status of law. Between that and everyone continuously informing on everyone else, the world will be a much happier place.

Some might argue that these penalties run afoul of the Constitution’s prohibition against cruel and unusual punishment. Not to worry. Something is “unusual” only if it doesn’t happen very often. Once it starts happening all the time then it becomes “usual.” Locking people in a room made of iron bars must have seemed pretty curious at some point in history. Now it’s normal. Once we have tattooed people walking around here, there and everywhere we won’t think twice about it.

AN ACT TO ENSURE FULL DISCLOSURE IN BAKED GOODS

Each and every year the state of South Dakota produces approximately 470 pounds of zucchini for every man, woman and child. This unwelcome bounty is a big problem. Lovers of this foul fruit of the vine, which I most assuredly am not, can only eat so much of it fried, baked or sautÈed. This causes them to seek out ways to use it in other recipes. Muffins. Bread. Chocolate cake — an abomination that cries out to the heavens for redress. Each fall I live in fear that I may accidentally ingest some.

This act would make it a felony to use zucchini in baked goods and not inform potential eaters of same. The prison term would be doubled for anyone who encourages consumption of a zucchini-tainted concoction by uttering, “Try some! You’ll never even taste it!” or the equivalent.

Since I’ve already done the heavy lifting by coming up with the Big Ideas, working out the details of these laws should only take a few hours. I have no idea what our legislators will do with the rest of their time. Perhaps a good book.

Editor’s Note: This column is revised from the January/February 2008 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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Naming Jett

A tipi was erected atop Snake Butte near Lake Oahe for the traditional Lakota naming ceremony of Mike and Donna Stroup’s son, Jett.

Children are guided along paths laid out by their parents. That is the natural order of things, but for one Lakota family it may not be the only way.

Donna and Mike Stroup, of rural Pierre, welcomed a son, their second child, into the world on Sept. 25, 2013. They named him Jett, and he was about a year old when Donna was approached by Violet Catches, her close friend of many years.

“Violet had seen Jett after his birth and always commented on how he was a ‘real’ Indian baby,” said Donna.”She said, ‘He needs a spirit name.'”

Sometime later,”Violet told me she had a dream in which she came upon an old-time Indian camp,” said Donna. Their tipis were gathered in a circle, with children playing all around, and when Violet entered the circle she saw Jett.”He turned and saw [Catches] and ran to her with arms outstretched, and said, ‘Grandma! I’m so happy you’re back in my life!'”

Clark Zephyr (left), a Fort Thompson medicine man, officiated at the naming ceremony for Jett, shown being held by his father, Mike.

Catches grew up on the Cheyenne River Reservation, in a traditional Lakota family, one in which the old ways were her first ways.”My first language was Lakota,” said Catches.”My first teachings in life were in the Lakota culture. My grandmother told me stories about our culture, and it wasn’t just for my ears. It was for all the kids in the house — my older sister and younger brother, and a cousin we called older sister.”

Lakota kinship is different,”more complex,” than the American system, said Catches. Relationships include the bonds between immediate and extended family members, but they can be equally close and meaningful beyond those traditional ties.”In life, you feel really connected to certain people,” said Catches.”That’s how I feel about Donna and Mike and their children.”

That connection to the Stroup family, and her Lakota background, moved Catches to see her dream as more than a simple dream: it was an invitation to help her friends recover a pearl of great price.”I asked Donna and Mike if they would permit me to have a naming ceremony for Jett,” said Catches.

Native children receive a given name at birth, as Jett did, but naming ceremonies — in which another name is bestowed and celebrated — have long been a part of the Lakota, Dakota and Nakota traditions. Names sometimes pass from parent to child, or within a tiospaye (extended family), according to Mike. This may happen when the christened is young, but they can be conferred at any time from the teenaged to gray-haired years.

Names can also be original to an individual, as when they reflect a unique spiritual vision, or recognize some significant achievement or service.

“My wife and I didn’t seek out a name,” said Mike.”Violet saw Jett early on, and had a connection with him. She didn’t know why.”

Donna, Mike and Violet prepared for the naming ceremony by visiting the sweat lodge at Wakpa Sica Reconciliation Place outside of Fort Pierre (Jett would have participated if he were older). In that place of purification and prayer they offered thanks for the honor accorded Jett and their family, and asked for guidance.

The inside of the ceremonial tipi.

On the appointed day, friends and family gathered at the Stroup home 5 miles north of Pierre, near the top of Zuze’ca Paha (Snake Butte) overlooking Lake Oahe. Clark Zephyr, a medicine man from Fort Thompson, performed the ceremony. Chris Mexican, of Pierre, served as the drummer and singer.

Mike had erected a ceremonial tipi, adorned with sacred symbols, which will be Jett’s to keep throughout his lifetime. The naming ceremony began inside, with Jett, Zephyr, Mexican, Donna, Mike and their older son Spencer present. (Violet was unable to attend because of family obligations.)

A naming ceremony can vary somewhat from one medicine man to another. Zephyr began with three traditional songs, sung to the cardinal directions; these served as the ceremony’s foundation for they appealed to Jett’s living and dead relatives to guide him in the coming years.

When they emerged from the tipi Jett was placed on a buffalo robe. Zephyr tied an eagle feather into his hair and Mike and Donna proclaimed his name for the first time: OyÈ Aku,”One Who Brings Back Tradition.”

“Jett’s spirit name came to Violet while she was at Sun Dance before the naming ceremony, and it was a pretty fitting name,” said Donna.”When I was pregnant Mike and I discussed ways to expose Jett to as much of our culture as we could after his birth.”

Purifying sage smoke wafted around the sacred circle while the assembled company lifted their voices in an honor song for the family. Mike and Donna served water and wasna — a mixture of dried chokecherries and buffalo meat — to their corporeal guests, and left some on a nearby butte for those of the spirit realm. These elements have been used in naming ceremonies”forever,” said Mike,”reflecting that water and the buffalo have been around since the beginning.”

Webster Two Hawk, an Episcopal minister from Pierre, offered a prayer of thanksgiving over the feast that followed. This brought the ceremony to a close, and began the many years of patient teaching it will take to help OyÈ Aku understand the significance of his name.

“For us to accept that name, to allow him to accept that name, is a great honor, but a great burden as well,” said Mike.”It kind of sets the direction of his life because it becomes his responsibility to bring back tradition.”

Jett was just 2 when he received a Lakota name meaning, “One Who Brings Back Tradition.”

Before they can teach and guide their son, Mike and Donna must first reconnect more deeply with their own pasts. They are both Lakota, enrolled tribal members on the Lower Brule and Cheyenne River reservations respectively, but they didn’t come of age in traditional families, where their ancestral culture and language were woven into daily life.

“Neither one of us is fluent [in Lakota],” said Mike.”We know a lot of common words, but not much more.” Like many Lakota their age, the Stroups’ grandparents were all native speakers. For a variety of reasons the essential language link between old and young was never made during their formative years, making them part of what Mike termed”a lost generation.”

They do have one decided advantage going forward: both of the Stroups have extensive experience in education. Mike started his career teaching at Flandreau Indian School, then moved on to White River, Rosebud and Sinte Gleska University, before returning to his hometown of Pierre as the high school principal and district superintendent.

After graduating from college with a degree in psychology and early childhood development, Donna’s first position was with the Pierre Indian Learning Center. Stints with the Department of Social Services Child Protection Services and Department of Human Services Division of Developmental Disabilities followed; she is currently the Director of Indian Education for the Pierre School District.

OyÈ Aku and his siblings could hardly be in better hands. They will grow up in a home where education is valued, with parents who will be learning about their treasured Lakota heritage as they teach it to them.

“Our responsibility will be to give OyÈ the opportunity to dance, to sing, to learn about and carry on those traditions,” said Donna.

In this task they will, fortunately, have Catches to support them.”I am going to be helping them learn some of the larger concepts of Lakota culture,” said Catches. One of those is mit·kuye oy·s’in, a sacred term that should be used only in prayer,”at the right time and the right place. What it means is we are all related. Not just to other human beings, but to the earth, the sky, the water, the animals.”

And our precious past.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the July/August 2016 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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The Turtle on Snake Butte

The stone turtle atop Snake Butte. Photo by John Mitchell.

There are runic legends written in stone on hilltops across South Dakota — giant snakes, turtles, mythical beasts, human-like forms, sacred symbols. The meanings within these hieroglyphs are a mystery to most of us. Do they commemorate the deeds of flesh-and-blood beings of our corporeal world? Cosmic or supernatural events? If you could stand on a mountain and read the land like a topographical novel, would it read top-down, left-to-right?

Archaeologists try to unlock the secrets in the stone through methodical research. Others make like Moses drawing water from the rock of Horeb and listen to the voices in their heads.

In any case, you can’t get a handle on Black Elk Speaks or Thus Spoke Zarathustra or Their Eyes Were Watching God without bothering to read them. How many of the stories once held in the collections of the vast land library have been lost to the elements, vandals or time? We’ll never know, but plenty remain.

One such story-writ-in-stone is the Snake Butte turtle effigy near Pierre — one of hundreds of petroforms depicting animals, humans and mythical creatures that have been documented in South Dakota. Some have disappeared or been altered. Most — including the turtle effigy — are on private land and not officially protected.

A marker directs visitors to Snake Butte, near Pierre.

The Snake Butte turtle effigy site is accessible; though it’s on private land, the owners welcome considerate visitors. Take Highway 1804 about 4 miles north of Pierre. The turn off (which is a private driveway) is on the left just past Grey Goose Road. At the corner, you’ll see a South Dakota State Historical Society sign with the heading, “Sioux Indian Mosaic.” From there you can drive to the top of the driveway, park your vehicle (without blocking the driveway) and a sign to the left will direct you to a quarter-mile walk to the top of Snake Butte, overlooking the Missouri River just downstream from Oahe Dam. The effigy is inside a fenced enclosure.

Archaeologist T.H. Lewis was the first to non-verbally document the site in 1889. He described the outline of a turtle (or possibly a beetle in his estimation), 15 feet long from nose to nail, and 8 feet wide, with four legs and a tail. “Running in a northerly direction along the edge of the bluff for from 500 to 800 yards there is a row of bowlders [sic], placed at irregular intervals. According to Indian tradition these bowlders mark the places where blood dripped from an Arikara chief, as he fled from the Dakotas, who had mortally wounded him.”

Lewis also described, “many squares, circles, some parallelograms, and other figures” along the bluff.

In 1904, Thomas Riggs — a missionary who lived among the Dakota — related the story that he said a Dakota elder had told him about the stones “thirty years ago.”

To paraphrase: An Arikara scout attempted to raid a Dakota camp on Snake Butte. He was discovered at dawn by a Dakota guard, who shot him with an arrow.

“The arrow,” Riggs said, “had entered the hip in such a way as to render the leg useless and an incumbrance. He ran, or hopped rather, with marvelous swiftness, falling to the ground again and again; in agony and desperation he rose and continued his hopeless flight till overtaken and slain.”

This illustration appeared with an article written by archaeologist T.H. Lewis in 1889.

“The victorious Dakota,” said Riggs, “was filled with wonder and admiration, and that such astonishing spirit might have a fitting memorial, retracing his steps, he carefully placed a stone over each drop of blood and along the course where the wounded man had fallen he gathered small piles of stones, and larger piles to show the starting in the race and the end.”

Recalling Riggs’ retelling, state historian Doane Robinson wrote that the memorialist placed the turtle at the end of the line of stones, “to show the tribal lodge to which he belonged.” The SDSHS sign near the site agrees with this interpretation of the turtle as a signifier for the Dakota band.

“As for which Lakota band is identified as the attackers, some say It·zipƒçho, some say Hokwojus,” says Sebastian LeBeau, a BIA archaeologist and member of the Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe. Either way: “It’s an authentic Lakota story.”

One difference: in the version he knows, the Arikara warrior was defending his village, not the other way around. “He was running for his life to warn his people of an impending attack.” There is plenty of archaeological evidence of Arikara village sites in the area around Oahe Dam, though there is no historical record of a particular battle between the Arikara and the Dakota/Lakota connected to this event. “Even in the oral tradition, there is no specification on whether or not a raid was carried out. It just stops with the creation of the turtle effigy.”

“What’s important is the commemoration of the great deed demonstrated by the dying Arikara.”

Another difference in LeBeau’s version of the story is what the turtle symbolizes. “As I was told, the significance of the turtle goes back to creating kinship. Through the brave act of the Arikara — the Lakota in respecting him and honoring him, created a kinship recognition. In some tellings, I’ve heard old people say they recognized this one as a relative because of his bravery. His concern was for his people and he struggled mightily to try and warn them.”

“The central aspect of why one shares that story is to acknowledge not a great deed of the Lakota, but a great deed of an enemy. You measure your own self-worth or cultural worth as a warrior by who you fight with,” says LeBeau, laughing. “The Arikaras were good fighters. They couldn’t whip us, but we respected their ability in combat.”

“What made me feel sad about [the effigy] when I first went to it, was that the actual stone path — elements of it are still there, but the whole path isn’t.”

While the turtle figure is protected by the enclosure, many of the stones the stories say symbolize the blood trail left by the brave warrior have disappeared, along with the geometric shapes and figures documented by T.H. Lewis.

The physical work itself isn’t imposing — it’s a big (by-turtle-standards) stone outline of a turtle on a hill — dwarfed by panoramic views of the river valley below. Conceptually, it stands alone. Memorials to fallen warriors, built by their enemies, are hard to find.

Michael Zimny is the social media engagement specialist for South Dakota Public Broadcasting in Vermillion. He blogs for SDPB and contributes arts columns to the South Dakota Magazine website.

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Reminders of Our Outlaw Days

Cuthbert DuCharme’s cabin stands in a Geddes city park.

People who ventured into Dakota Territory during the 1800s were either bravely adventurous or very desperate. The faint of heart did not leave family, friends and comforts of home for a dangerous and uncertain existence. South Dakota remains the center of the American frontier, where remnants and reminders of territorial history still surround us.

Furthermore, descendants of some of our most colorful characters still live here. Several years ago, South Dakota Magazine featured an article on outlaws. We wrote about a man who had lured investors to the Hills by switching mineral samples. The suckers realized they had been duped when miners processed 3,000 tons of ore and extracted only $5 in gold. It’s a good story, but one of our readers took offense. “My grandfather was not a crook!” wrote a nice lady from West River. It turns out her ancestor was also a pillar of the Rapid City community.

Other reminders of our outlaw past remain in every corner of the state. In Geddes the cabin of fur trader Cuthbert DuCharme sits in the city park. DuCharme, called “Old Papineau” because of a talent for making whiskey (Papineau is French for pap water, or whiskey), lived along the banks of the Missouri River. His roadhouse boomed when Fort Randall was established, and wild parties were held every night.

On the other side of the state, a tree used to hang three accused horse thieves still stands on Skyline Drive in Rapid City. The tree died long ago, but the trunk is now embedded in concrete, a grey reminder of an era when hangings were punishment for a crime that might not merit a prison sentence today.

One of those killed that night was a teenager. His two traveling companions admitted their guilt, but declared to the very end that the boy was innocent. Some Rapid Citians felt there was a curse on their city because of the boy’s hanging.

Yes, our past is hard to escape. A new gravestone now marks the Gregory County burial site of Jack Sully, the famous Robin Hood of the Rosebud country. The shackles worn by Lame Johnny on his last stagecoach ride (vigilantes stopped the coach and hanged him) are now split between the State Historical Society in Pierre and the 1881 Custer Courthouse Museum. Potato Creek Johnny’s 7.75 ounce gold nugget can be seen at the Adams Museum in Deadwood. And you can still sleep at Poker Alice’s house in Sturgis.

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Doane’s Favorite Places

Doane Robinson began his career in law, but eventually he became a poet, writer, publisher and state historian.

It’s an eight-minute walk in Pierre from Doane Robinson’s former home on Wynoka Street to the state capitol building, where he once had an office. Eight minutes, that is, if you walk with a sense of purpose.

And it is impossible to think of Doane Robinson ever moving without a sense of purpose. In the early days of South Dakota statehood he was South Dakota’s idea man, and he ranks among our most prolific writers. Usually men of letters leave behind books, and men with big ideas leave thinking that spurs others into action over time. Certainly Robinson’s legacy includes books and inspiration, but he also left South Dakota beautiful buildings at Gary, Pierre and Hisega, as well as a solid foundation for a department of state government. Oh yes … there’s also that sculpture of four presidential heads blasted from mountain granite near Keystone.

Robinson’s grandson, Will Doane Robinson, a retired teacher in Rapid City, remembers long walks along Wynoka and beyond with his grandfather in the 1930s.”A very, very nice man,” he describes him, and other neighborhood children concurred, often tagging along on walks. At the time they had no real idea of who their older friend was. Professionally Doane Robinson was a homesteader, teacher, lawyer, poet, editor and South Dakota’s first state historian. In his personal life he was a devoted family man who was widowed young. In his spare time he sometimes tinkered trying to invent a perpetual motion machine.

Born into a farm family near Sparta, Wisconsin in 1856, he was christened Jonah LeRoy Robinson. Two childhood incidents impacted the rest of his life. First, younger sister Sadie couldn’t pronounce Jonah and called him Donah, later shortened to Doane. He answered to the name the rest of his life. The second event, says great-granddaughter Vicki McLain, was much darker. Typhoid fever hit his family. No one died, but the family struggled for years to pay medical bills, keeping them in poverty for most of Doane’s childhood. Forever after, Robinson believed debt had to be avoided if at all possible.

He possessed an amazing memory, claiming he could recall incidents that happened before age 2, and maybe even before age 1. Robinson seemed strangely attuned to history-in-the-making. He remembered his parents discussing news that Abraham Lincoln had been elected president the month after Robinson turned 4. His parents were Democrats and he recalled they were unimpressed with the Republican Lincoln. Later he heard talk of distant fighting as the Civil War played out, and Robinson remembered news of Lincoln’s assassination — his mother worried Democrats would take the blame. Much later Robinson decided”in some ways the truth about Lincoln had been withheld from me,” and he committed himself to reading political theory. He became a Republican but, he wrote,”will give my support to another party any minute I am convinced that the sum of happiness will be enhanced by it.”

During his teens he worked hard on the farm, was able to run the place on his own in the event of family emergencies, and he worked equally hard in school where he honed his love of words. In his early 20s he taught school, homesteaded near his brother’s place in Minnesota, and began studying law at the University of Wisconsin. All the while he fretted about Jennie Austin, a Wisconsin girl he greatly admired and found beautiful, but who was a teenager too young for him.

Robinson fell in love with a spot he saw while traveling on the Crouch railroad line. He named it Hisega, and soon build a lodge there featuring a wraparound porch. Photo by Paul Horsted

Of course, Jennie matured. She became a teacher herself. The two decided their affection was mutual in 1883, the same year Robinson got serious about finding legal work in western Minnesota or across the border in Dakota Territory. He hadn’t earned a law degree but had learned enough to feel confident he could offer quality legal services — not an unusual course of action at the time. He considered setting himself up in Ortonville, Minnesota, but didn’t like the town. Then he visited Watertown”and made up my mind I had found the place I was looking for.” He opened a Watertown law office in September of 1883.

Months later he bought one-third interest in the Watertown Daily Courier.”The law is a jealous mistress and must come before anything else in your life,” Robinson would one day counsel his son Will, an attorney. By buying into the newspaper and, in fact, becoming its editor, Robinson demonstrated an unwillingness to focus on the law alone. The result, he decided later, was failing to be”much shucks” as a lawyer.

In December of 1884, Watertown’s young lawyer and editor rode the rails to Wisconsin to marry Jennie. Then the couple came home to Dakota Territory. Son Harry was born in 1888, and Will came along in 1893. In those years Robinson learned he could supplement his family’s income nicely by selling poetry to magazines across the country. He actually attracted a national following. The Boston Herald noted that”perhaps no one of the younger poets of America has so quickly established himself in the hearts of the common people.” Robinson came to know South Dakota in part because of requests to travel from town to town and recite his verse. His dialect poetry, recreating the speech patterns of the state’s immigrants, often for humorous effect, was well received. He also toured other Midwestern states. Even after he became state historian, Robinson remained a poet, and found he could sometimes combine verse and historical interpretation. An example is this poem about W.H.H. Beadle, Civil War veteran and pioneering educator who championed South Dakota School and Public Lands for generating public education funds:

Man of vision! Man of mission,

Patriot, soldier, scholar, seer.

Man of action! Man of purpose! Duty led

in thy career.

Forward looking; self forgetting; unwaged

drudge for learning’s gain;

South Dakota reaps the harvest planted by

thy care and pain.

In 1894 he moved his young family to Gary, a railroad town in Deuel County, close to the Minnesota border. He bought the Gary Interstate newspaper.”Getting out an edition of the eight page newspaper was frequently a family affair,” son Will recalled in an excellent little biography of his father.”The press was an old Washington hand press.” Jennie positioned the newsprint in the press and Doane swung a big lever to apply pressure and make the imprint. At age 6 Harry removed the finished newspapers from the press and stacked them.

After the town of Gary lost its status as the seat of Deuel County, Robinson urged the state to locate the School for the Blind there. Today the campus is the Buffalo Ridge Resort and Business Center.

The year after the Robinsons moved to town, Gary lost county seat status to Clear Lake. But the new newspaper publisher had an idea: Why not lobby the state to build a School for the Blind on the former courthouse grounds? Robinson did some research and determined it cost South Dakota $2,000 per student, every year, to send children with visual impairments to out-of-state institutions, in the era when it was assumed students with disabilities learned best in segregated environments. Robinson’s idea won statewide support and ground was broken in 1899. Students arrived in 1900. Vicki McLain thinks perhaps there was more to her great-grandfather’s passion for the school than commerce for Gary.”When he was studying law in Wisconsin,” she says,”he temporarily lost sight, apparently because of severe eye strain. He recovered but never took eyesight for granted.”

Over the next several years the school evolved into a pretty campus a couple blocks north of Gary’s business district. Services moved to Aberdeen in 1961 and the campus fell into disrepair, but more than 40 years later Joe Kolbach completed a beautiful restoration, creating Buffalo Ridge Resort.

Even as he was publishing the Interstate and advocating for the school, Robinson nursed a pet project, one he believed in so much that he was willing to sometimes serve as an”unpaid drudge,” to borrow a phrase from his Beadle poem. The idea was a magazine, the Monthly South Dakotan, that would heavily emphasize the young state’s history. Issues were produced over a period of several years and wherever Robinson moved, the magazine went with him. The Robinsons moved to Yankton where he bought controlling interest in a morning paper, The Gazette, and then it was on to Sioux Falls where Robinson hoped to find more ad revenue for the Monthly South Dakotan. Next the family made Aberdeen its home, and Robinson published the Brown County Review.

ìHe had a thousand irons in the fire,” Will wrote. As for the Monthly South Dakotan, he added, it claimed a loyal readership willing to pay for subscriptions, but ad revenue constantly fell short. The publication folded in 1904, and by that time Robinson’s life had changed drastically. In 1901 he was selected Secretary of the new South Dakota State Historical Society, a branch of state government. Now he had the opportunity to publish articles of the sort he prepared for the Monthly South Dakotan, but at state expense. After a few years in the position his income would allow for a very comfortable lifestyle. It should have been a happy time, but in 1902 Jennie died of acute bronchitis. Who else but Robinson, with his head for historical dates, would note that Jennie died 19 years to the day after she and Doane decided they were in love?

Robinson advocated for the stately Soldiers and Sailors Memorial in Pierre after World War I. It once housed the state’s history museum. Photo by Chad Coppess/S.D. Tourism

ìOh, my dear boys,” Robinson later wrote his sons,”I can never tell you how dearly I loved your Mama, not only those nineteen years, but long before, and every moment since.” He was 45 and never remarried.

Sadie, the sister who gave him his name, moved in to help run the household. The family relocated to Pierre and Robinson arranged for construction of the home on Wynoka Street. Future governor and U.S. senator Peter Norbeck would be a neighbor on Wynoka, and became Robinson’s good friend and ally.

Robinson perhaps occasionally lost himself in work as he grieved Jennie. He helped plan the state capitol building and wrote 1905’s Brief History of South Dakota, more commonly called”the little red history book,” which for decades was the standard volume schools used to teach about South Dakota’s past. Most important, though, Robinson got the State Historical Society off to a strong start, publishing the first volumes of South Dakota Historical Collections, the biennial series of papers that most every South Dakota historian has referenced.

ìHis was the foundation we’ve built on ever since,” says Jay Vogt, current State Historical Society director.”In his time, he was much more hands-on than we’re able to be, doing most of the research and writing himself.”

Indeed, when something big developed, such as the discovery of the Verendrye plate that proved French trappers passed through the state in 1743, Robinson jumped into action and researched, wrote and edited until he had 300 pages for Historical Collections. He also gathered South Dakota newspapers and indexed them, along with government documents, and he took special interest in seeking out American Indian historical perspectives. He considered it a great honor, before his state historian years, to have interviewed Hunkpapa leader Gall, one of the victors at the Battle of Little Big Horn.

While no one ever questioned Robinson’s work ethic, he has sometimes been criticized for not being an academically trained historian.

ìBut you have to put that criticism in context,” says Vogt.”At that time, in all states, history organizations were kind of amateur clubs, made up of people who had interest and maybe connections to historical sources. Doane Robinson brought a wide range of professional experiences to his work, and he possessed great curiosity.”

For many years his office was on the capitol building’s ground floor, along with a little museum. When the legislature was in session, lawmakers knew the state’s best writer was close at hand if they struggled with a bill’s wording.

After railroad tracks spanned the Missouri River and were extended west to Rapid City in 1907, Robinson had easy access to the Black Hills for the first time. The region offered intriguing history, and it was a perfect place to relax. In 1908 Robinson arranged a camping adventure for 17 friends, relatives and Pierre colleagues. The party stepped off the Crouch Line train in a beautiful canyon west of Rapid City and pitched tents. Robinson loved making up words and announced he would call the spot Hisega, a name derived from the initials of six women in the group: Helen, Ida, Sadie, Ethel, Grace and Ada. Everyone loved the place, talked it up back in Pierre, and Robinson devised a time-share scheme. If enough people contributed $100, he would build a mountain lodge for them at Hisega. The big structure with wrap-around porches awaited visitors the next summer, and it still greets guests today.

A building of an entirely different style that stands as a Doane Robinson legacy is the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial, down the front steps and immediately across the street from the state capitol. Robinson pushed for the building after World War I, and it took more than a decade to raise funds and get the stately memorial finished. In addition to honoring South Dakotans who served and died in military service, the building housed the state’s history museum for many years and was usually referred to as the Robinson Museum.

Robinson dreamed of carving into Black Hills mountains. Newspapermen called the idea ridiculous, but Robinson partnered with Gutzon Borglum and history was made. Photo by S.D. Tourism

Of course, when it comes to tangible legacies, nothing tops Mount Rushmore Memorial.”My grandfather thought the Black Hills were beautiful, but that not enough people would visit just because of that,” says Will D. Robinson.”There had to be some other reason. I can show you the spot on the Needles Highway where his Model T Ford touring sedan got hot one day, and he sent my dad to bring water from a spring. When my dad got back to the car, my grandfather was looking at the Needles, thinking how they could be carved by a sculptor.”

That was 1923. Robinson talked to people who might help, especially Senator Norbeck, and sometimes took heat from South Dakota newspaper editors who considered the scheme ridiculous. But in short order internationally renowned sculptor Gutzon Borglum was on board and in 1927, as Robinson looked on, President Calvin Coolidge was present for a ceremony launching the project. Only the location wasn’t the Needles but nearby Mount Rushmore because, Robinson’s grandson understood, the Needles spires contained too much feldspar and Borglum didn’t want to alter that stunning piece of God’s handiwork.

Borglum also didn’t want to carve figures related to the American West, as Robinson proposed, but instead presidents. In Borglum, Robinson met a man whose vast vision matched his own. In another way, though, the men were polar opposites. Borglum liked to move ahead without much thought about costs, while Robinson insisted on budgetary constraint. As an executive of the original association formed to oversee Mount Rushmore’s creation, it fell to Robinson to confront the sculptor at times about spending. He was happy to pretty much leave the project in 1929, content in knowing his role as instigator had been successful. Robinson was back at the mountain on July 4, 1930, as a speaker when the Washington head was dedicated. He was 73 and had retired as State Historical Society Secretary six years earlier.

In the 1930s Robinson had more time for his walks and young friends on Wynoka Street, and he kept writing. Unlike Borglum and Norbeck, he lived long enough to see Mount Rushmore in its final form. He also saw his son Will become head of the State Historical Society in 1946. Doane Robinson lived a few weeks past his 90th birthday and his grandson recalls his mind and memories were as sharp as ever toward the end. He had witnessed America’s evolution from Abraham Lincoln to the atomic age. No one observed South Dakota’s first half century more intently.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the November/December 2013 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call (800) 456-5117.

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A Capitol Christmas

Christmas at the Capitol has been a holiday tradition in Pierre since 1981 when volunteers decorated 12 trees. This year, nearly 90 brilliantly-lighted and specially-themed trees fill the rotunda and hallways on three floors. Visitors can peruse the trees from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily through December 26. Musicians from around the state provide entertainment through Friday, Dec. 23. The remaining schedule includes:

Wednesday, Dec. 20

Harrisburg High School Choir, 12 p.m. to 1 p.m.

Julie Willoughby piano students, 6 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Tiffany Sanderson (piano), 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Ron Smith (piano), Jeff Spect (vocals) and Lori Hall (bells), 8:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Thursday, Dec. 21

Rapid City Stevens High School Choir and Orchestra, 12 p.m. to 1 p.m.

Friday, Dec. 22

Andrea Royer (vocals and piano), 12 p.m. to 1 p.m.

Jared Holzhauer (piano), 7 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Ron Smith (piano) and Joey Garrett (classical guitar), 8 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Photos by Bernie Hunhoff

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Pierre’s Treasure

Our May/June issue includes a story on the Treasury Inn, an imposing mansion on North Euclid Avenue in Pierre. The neoclassical home built in 1905 began as the luxurious private residence of A.W. and Caroline Ewert, but slowly declined over the years as a hotel and boarding house. Owen and Shar Gardella purchased the home in 2004 and spent 13 years on a wall-to-wall, roof-to-basement restoration, uncovering surprises like a mural in the dining room and a century-old pouch of letters written to blackmail South Dakota’s state treasurer. Owen, who had significant experience refurbishing old homes in Connecticut, used early photos to help him restore it to its original beauty.

The Gardellas are now offering the Treasury Inn for sale. John Andrews visited the home earlier this year and took several photos for the story. Here are some that didn’t make the magazine.

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A Lost Monument

A concrete slab on Snake Butte near Pierre once supported a monument declaring that spot the geographical center of North America.

There’s a humble concrete slab on Snake Butte, about 4 miles north of Pierre. This solitary relic amid the grass was once the foundation of a monument to the capital’s nearly forgotten title of “approximate geographical center of North America.” Today, it’s a just crumbling slab on a remote hill.

Pierre long ago conceded the designation. A counter-claim by Rugby, North Dakota, the elements, possibly even vandals, worked together to wear down our state capital’s resolve to maintain a marker.

Robert F. Kerr, a professor at the South Dakota State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts (now SDSU), first made the Pierre-as-continental-center designation in 1904. Kerr drew lines from opposite corners of maps of South Dakota and North America and found that, for both, they intersected at Pierre. In 1911, Willis Johnson — geographer and president of Northern Normal and Industrial School (now Northern State) — employed a similar method to derive the same result in his book South Dakota: A Republic of Friends.

As the pre-eminent Pierre booster, developer Charles Hyde — who built many of the turn-of-the-century buildings still standing in Pierre — saw the center designation as useful to his cause of promoting Pierre as a city on the rise.

“He kind of took this idea and ran with it a little bit,” says geographer Jerry Penry, a Nebraska-based surveyor who has written extensively about geographical center monuments.

Hyde got together with state historian Doane Robinson and the two decided to place a monument a few miles north of Pierre. In 1923, a 23-foot-tall concrete obelisk was placed in the middle of the road between two lanes of Highway 14. A bronze plaque embedded in the base of the monument read: “Center of South Dakota and Approximate Center of North America.”

Shortly after, it was determined that, as Hyde wrote in his 1939 biography, Pioneer Days,”any obstruction built into the center of a highway becomes somewhat of a menace to safety.” A new, similar monument was built atop nearby Snake Butte in 1928. A fence was built around the new monument to protect it, leading to some speculation that the prior incarnation may have been vandalized. In later pictures, it appears that the fence had been removed.

Charles Hyde and Doane Robinson helped place this monument marking the center of South Dakota and North America between two lanes of Highway 14 in 1923.

The first challenge to Pierre’s geographical center claim originated from a formidably official source. In 1930, the U.S. Geological Survey’s Bulletin 817 designated the center of North America at a point about 18 miles north of Rugby in Pierce County, North Dakota.

Rugby was the county seat, and the townspeople swiftly decided to put the designation to use to attract curious travelers.

Pierre noticed. But, emboldened by a proclamation from the federal government, at least some of Rugby’s civically engaged citizens felt their claim was more legitimate, and said so.

Even though the Pierre monument only claimed to be the”Approximate Center of North America,” and Rugby was itself a small distance from the site designated by the USGS, the dispute over which town was closer to center occasionally flared up in the papers.

Doane Robinson immediately took up the case, asking the USGS,”for the method by which the center was definitely fixed at Rugby.”

USGS Secretary W.C. Mendenhall replied that, “There is no way known to determine the exact geographic center, mathematically; they are only approximate in varying degrees. The position referred to in Bulletin 817 is only approximate.”

The people of Rugby built their own stone-cairn center monument in 1932, and the town attained, through due process, a patent on the claim”Geographical Center of North America.” Rumors about more nefarious actions by Rugby boosters have long festered but never been proven.

State historians on opposite sides continued the fight well into the 1940s with North Dakota’s Will Reid writing that,”There appears to be no basis for the placing of [the Pierre] marker… it should be removed.” South Dakota state historian Will Robinson (son of Doane) again insisted that the Pierre monument marked an”approximate center.”

When relatives of the great Hunkpapa Lakota chief Sitting Bull, in cooperation with South Dakota state historians, planned to exhume his grave in Fort Yates, North Dakota — and re-bury him at his present memorial site overlooking the Missouri river near Mobridge in 1953 — the Bismarck Tribune bitterly recalled the center dispute, warning readers to, “Tie down your oil wells, gentlemen, rustlers are coming.”

Maybe fears of sabotage on either side stemmed from a mutually uneasy sense that neither claim had a solid geographical footing. Neither of the methods employed in determining the competing towns as geographical centers — drawing diagonal lines from opposite corners of a map (Pierre), or a more complex method involving a cut-out North America model suspended by cords tied to a common center (Rugby) — are scientifically sound, says Penry, who is working on a book on geographical centers.

Even if they were, there’s still the question of how to define North America.”No two people would ever come up with the same map of North America,” says Penry.”In particular in the Northern region where you have water areas and islands.” Without a consensus on continental boundaries, there can be none on where the center lies.

South Dakota geographers Robert Kerr and Willis Johnson found the center of North America by drawing lines from opposite corners of maps. This illustration appeared in Johnson’s book, South Dakota: A Republic of Friends.

Photos from the 1950s show significant deterioration to the obelisk on Snake Butte. By 1958, the monument was gone. The Huron Daily Plainsman reported that,”a new modern marker has been erected to replace the concrete monolith.” The write-up mentioned,”an irate group of North Dakotans were among those that found fault with the approximation and claimed that the center of North America was near Rugby, N.D.”

The sign that replaced the obelisk — erected by Charles Lee Hyde and Will Robinson, sons of the original monument builders — was a bronze historical marker like those still seen today at points of interest across South Dakota, on a concrete pole atop the surviving pedestal. The sign blamed the cause of the monument’s deterioration on “poor materials.”

The tactile text was also up front about the fact that the center designation was only an approximation, stating that the true continental center “was neither at Rugby nor near Pierre,” and that, “until some divine authority determines a better method, we will continue to call this the approximate center, but will quarrel with no other approximations.” The installation of this marker and its controversial message began a new era on Snake Butte. The monolith, though it may have been shoddily constructed, lasted 30 years. Markers wouldn’t last that long any more.

The Mitchell Daily Republic reported in August 1959 that the sign — missing since July of that year — was found by rancher Oliver McGruder”while mowing hay in a field about 200 yards from the monument.” If the marker was ever remounted, it’s no longer there.

In 1988, the Pierre Capital Journal reported that a replica of the bronze plaque embedded in the base of the monument was installed to replace the original, which had been stolen one year prior. The article quotes state Centennial Director Jim Larson saying that an unnamed”gentleman in Rugby, North Dakota has taken offense that the monument even exists,” and that,”North Dakota attorneys have contacted South Dakota attorneys.” The replacement plaque has since gone missing.

During the state’s centennial celebration in 1989, a new sign with the words”South Dakota’s Centennial Acre” was placed above the base. That also disappeared.

“Somebody was doing anything they could to erase any inclination that Pierre was also at the center of North America,” says Penry.”It became a big challenge for them to keep anything up.”

This photo from 1947 shows the monument atop Snake Butte.

Was a posse of marker-rustling geographic vigilantes wearing down Pierre’s determination to stake a claim as approximate center? Antagonists on either side of the divide had warned that their adversaries might harbor a rogue element. Rugby’s 1932 monument stands. The town recently gave it a $5,000 facelift. Pierre can’t seem to find a fastener sturdy enough to hold anything down.

“There’s no documented proof of anybody ever being caught in the act,” says Penry. Maybe Pierre just has bad luck with center monuments. Maybe there are other forces at work on Snake Butte. Correspondence by Doane Robinson, circa 1923, shows that he once had plans for a separate monument on Snake Butte — a bronze plaque, affixed to a boulder, inscribed:”Sioux tradition that monster serpent, (perhaps a cyclone) leaped out from this butte and devoured an entire village.”

Rugby’s long streak of better fortune recently hit a snag of its own. After 84 years of holding the title, last year Rugby’s citizens were jolted by the unwelcome news that bar owner Bill Bender of Robinson, North Dakota (about 98 miles south of Rugby) had applied for, and received, the patent for the title”Geographical Center of North America” — not for the town of Robinson, but for his bar, Hanson’s.

Rugby had failed to renew the patent with the United States Patent and Trademark Office when it expired in 2009.”It had sort of slipped between the cracks, I think, at the Chamber of Commerce office,” says Cathy Jelsing, director of the Prairie Village Museum at the Geographical Center of North America.”There was surprise and disbelief that someone else would try and scoop that up and take it away from us.”

The Pierce County Tribune recently reported that the Rugby Chamber has contacted Bender and his co-owners,”requesting they cease all use of the mark and surrender their federal registration,” and that the Chamber may consider challenging the patent, based on the concept of common law trademark rights — rights developed through use rather than statute.

At Hanson’s, a large decal affixed to the floor proclaims geographical center status for the bar. Bender acknowledges receiving a letter from the Chamber, but is enjoying the notoriety.


“We sold out of bar T-shirts right away after the Wall Street Journal article hit,” he says.”Last fall we had bikers and lots of people altering trips to swing up and stop at the bar. We expect to have a lot more interest leading up to Center Fest.” (He’s putting on the first annual Center Fest this August.)

“We’ve already had lots of bands contact us about playing. Hopefully we’ll have our new monument made by then, so we can do that unveiling, and it’s in the planning stages now but we’re working on a giant trebuchet.”

In a string of thievery, this sign placed at the monument site in 1989 was soon stolen.

He isn’t worried about retaliation.”Our monument [will be] right in the center of our small town. Nothing really goes on in our town without people seeing it or knowing about it.”

Meanwhile, just this year a new claim emerged. Peter Rogerson, a geography professor at the University of Buffalo, used a mathematical method he developed for determining geographical centers to pinpoint a new center of North America at Center, North Dakota.

“Needless to say I was very surprised,” says Rogerson.”To think that it had been named Center because it was the center of the county, and then to find that it is also the center of the continent was an incredible coincidence.”

Rogerson’s method utilizes azimuthal equidistant projection of boundary points, and”minimizes the sum of squared great circle distances from all points in the region to the center.”

“It’s not hard to argue,” science writer Steph Yin writes in The New York Times,”that Dr. Rogerson’s claim is more precise than Rugby’s and Mr. Bender’s.”

While Rogerson’s method is more scientifically sound, there’s still the issue of a consensus (or lack thereof) on continental boundaries.”The boundary of North America was defined by using a U.S. Geological Survey ëBoundary File,'” says Rogerson,”that contained the mainland portion of the continent — from Panama up to northern Canada — but not including the islands in the far Canadian north, other islands off the coast, and not including Greenland, which some people include in the definition of North America.”

Center Mayor Harold Wilkens says the town doesn’t have any current plans to capitalize on the designation.”This isn’t a definite deal,” he says. “The New York Times is where it started from. A lot people have said they [the Times] like to stir up problems. I don’t know if this is true or not.”

If, as Penry has written,”the outline of North America and what should or should not be included when defining the northern regions of the continent can be left to many interpretations,” and”therefore, the monument at Pierre, in reality had just as a legitimate claim as anywhere else,” then maybe Rugby’s, Hanson’s and Center’s claims are co-equal. To the extent that a designated continental center exists at all in the popular imagination, that place would probably still be Rugby. For now anyway, but should Rogerson’s designation receive some organizational imprimatur, or Hanson’s Bar sell a few hundred more T-shirts, that could change.

Nobody knows for certain what happened to Pierre’s post-monument markers though, and even if decades ago there was a crew of center-hogging hooligans clandestinely operating out of Rugby, in the end their labors were undone by a couple emails. Tenaciously as they may have tried to hold onto the center, as Yeats observed, the center cannot hold.

Rugby’s loss is something Pierre should understand acutely. If being first mattered more than the method, the patent, the monument, then Pierre would still hold the title. Sometimes in a certain time and place,”approximate” is close enough to center. In 1923 it was, and maybe that comes back around.

Back in Rugby:”I think people have calmed down now,” says Jelsing,”and they figure that we’ve had a monument since 1932, and we’re not going to let go of this title.”

Pierre doesn’t have to either.

Michael Zimny is the social media engagement specialist for South Dakota Public Broadcasting in Vermillion. He blogs for SDPB and contributes arts columns to the South Dakota Magazine website.