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In Full Bloom

It’s wildflower season again across the Northern Plains. Lately my photography has taken me down the path of botany. Well, not fully, I guess. I’m mostly interested in flowers and florets as well as some of the myriad of creatures that can be found around or among them. That means wildflowers for sure, but also grasses, butterflies and bees, among other things. June and July are prime months to get out and search for these bits of beauty fringing the prairie grass tapestries of our region.

This spring saw good rain for much of our state, and wildflowers follow the rain. When that happens, it is hard not to fall in love all over again with the surprisingly intricate beauty of the open prairie. I was in the Slim Buttes of Harding County and the Grand River National Grasslands in Perkins County in late June. I can’t remember ever seeing more blooms there. Sego lilies, spiderwort, yucca and prickly pear, all came out to enjoy the late spring weather. While looking for pincushion cactus, I came across a new-to-me bloom called clustered broomrape. It does not have any chlorophyll and gets the nutrients it needs from host plant roots, likely sagebrush in this case. I thought plants like these only grew in forests, but the prairie proved me wrong.

Speaking of prickly pear, I don’t usually have many good things to say about that particular plant. I’ve had bad experiences stepping on, falling in or unknowingly putting my hands on this cactus in my formative years. Those are not good memories. I’ve also seen favorite pets suffer tremendously after getting entangled and then feeling awful as one of the folks had to hold it down and pry the quills out. That said, when they bloom all at once on a sunny June day, adding accents of bright colors to the prairies, well I have to say, they grow on you. Such was the sight just south of Shadehill Recreation Area in Perkins County this year.

This is the first year I’ve seen timpsila (prairie turnip) with blooms. This plant was a staple for the Lakota and other regional tribes in an earlier time. Scarlet globemallow (cowboy’s delight) also has an interesting story. In Witness: A Hunkpapa Historian’s Strong-Heart Song of the Lakotas, Josephine Waggoner describes her people rubbing the flower on their hands and arms and then plunging them into boiling water and not getting injured. It was seen as a miracle plant used to alleviate burns, sunburns and even raw skin on a pony’s back.

There is so much to learn and respect about our native prairie habitats. Seeking out and sitting with the wildflowers has taught me much. Hopefully this collection of recent photos will inspire you to take a walk in the high prairie and see what you can learn.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midco he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Autumn in the High Country

Autumn always comes early to the high country. While late summer lingers across the rest of the land, the high coulees and upper draws seem to consistently show the first real signs of the season. The last week of September is normally the peak of fall color in places like Spearfish Canyon, the Slim Buttes and even Sica Hollow in the northeast corner of the state. For this reason, I regularly find myself wandering the back roads and trails of the high country every year about this time. It’s not that I welcome the end of summer, but it’s hard not to love autumn around here.

The beauty is fleeting, admittedly. When the weather patterns switch in this season of change, it brings strong winds that rob the trees of their dying leaves. That’s a lesson unto itself. There is beauty in endings. Sad though it is, it helps that there is promise of new life returning after the long winter.

This year I started around Sica Hollow during the golden hour on September 26. I was a bit early for fall color peak, but the color that was showing in the late afternoon and evening light seemed to accent the autumn beginnings quite wonderfully. A couple of days later I hit Badlands National Park, where the upper draws of Sage Creek were brilliant. One thing I learned is that yellow-leaved trees make for interesting visuals in a black and white image. They look nearly white.

After spending a day and half wandering around the Badlands, I made my way for Custer State Park. Needles Highway offers unique autumn color combined with winding roads and sweeping vistas. The fall foliage along the park’s creeks also offers colorful hues. From Custer State Park, I headed to the high country of Lawrence County by way of the Mystic and Rochford roads, finally ending up in Spearfish Canyon by late afternoon. This scenic byway is a must-drive in autumn. One extra perk this year was a small herd of mountain goats grazing near Bridal Veil Falls.

I finished up my tour of the high country in the first days of October by traveling north to the Slim Buttes and Cave Hills of Harding County. These areas are part of the Custer National Forest primarily for their stands of evergreens atop the buttes and hills, but they both offer great stands of deciduous trees along the draws and valleys. These places have become an autumn favorite for me. This year I missed the peak at the Slim Buttes as the color was nearly gone when I passed through, but the Cave Hills were nearly perfect. It goes to show just how fleeting fall’s beauty can be here on the high plains, even within a single county. Even so, the drive and views were worth every minute. The good news is that now the rest of the lower country as well as city and towns should be starting their autumn transformations. So, if you couldn’t make it to the high country, you still have a chance to get out and enjoy the rest of the season.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midco he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Beautiful Buttes

Slim Buttes is a mix of badlands, ponderosa pine forest and mesas surrounded by West River grasslands. It runs 40 miles north-to-south and is just 20 miles wide. Most travelers only see the buttes as they climb the high hill east of Buffalo on Highway 20. Looming south of the highway are the Castles, twin white buttes that look like royal ruins. Most of the other peaks and promontories have names, too. Ranchers dubbed one formation The Seals, and another Three sisters. Official names include Doc Hodge Draw, Adam and Eve Butte, Battleship Rock and Government Rock, the highest point. Photos by Christian Begeman.