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Farewell to the Monarchs

Nature has a rhythm. The seasons pulse through the year. The sunlight lengthens then diminishes again. We humans aren’t the only ones that pay attention. The wild creatures that share our world are far more in tune to these changes than we can imagine. Their lives and the future of their species depend on it. As summer fades to fall once more in South Dakota, I stumbled upon a vivid example of nature’s wondrous transition.

It was the day before Labor Day. This time of year is usually when the monarch butterfly migration peaks in southeastern South Dakota. The last few years I’ve watched the migration closely. The butterflies seem to be in pretty big trouble. Dry summers, decreasing habitat and a variety of other issues have significantly diminished the numbers of monarchs in the wild over the last decade. According to the Center for Biological Diversity, the 2014 count of monarchs was the lowest since records began in 1995. The winter count came in at 33.5 million, which sounds high until you compare it to the highest number on record, which was 909.5 million in 1997.

As a photographer, the monarch is a magnificent burst of color accentuating our native grasses and wildflowers. I remember the first time I had a telephoto lens on an old Minolta film camera. I spent at least a half hour one afternoon trying get a good shot of a lone monarch fluttering through our farmyard. I never did get a decent shot that day. Ever since, whenever I can get close enough to get a nice portrait of the remarkable insect, I count it as a win. In 2010, National Geographic ran a mini-series called”Great Migrations,” and one of the featured stories was the mystery and complexity of the monarch migration. It piqued my fascination once again. I didn’t have to travel to East Africa to witness this migration — it happens twice a year right here in South Dakota. The monarch is the only butterfly that flies up to 3,000 miles to winter in the warmer climes of Mexico, then flies back north in the spring laying eggs and spreading new generations across most of North America.

Back to the day before Labor Day … I had seen an eastern swallowtail and a handful of monarchs finding refuge in a windbreak the day before in eastern Brookings County. That prompted me to go to Lake Herman State Park to see if any monarchs had come to take advantage of the park’s attempt to grow native wildflowers and grasses. I was not disappointed. On a hillside filled with goldenrod and prairie blazing star flowers, I found hundreds of monarchs feeding. It is rare to be able to sit completely still and let nature come to you, but that is exactly what happened that afternoon. The butterflies were so intent on refueling for the next leg of their journey, they barely paid any heed to me or my camera. Later in the day, I found roughly a half dozen roosting areas each with 10 to 12 monarchs. These numbers are more than I’ve seen since 2011. So maybe the overall numbers are on the rebound. I hope so, because I’d like to make it an annual photographic tradition to say farewell to summer by saying farewell to the amazing monarch butterflies as they flutter through. So good luck and safe travels. Let’s do it again next year!

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Dramatic Summer Skies

This month marks four years that I’ve been writing photography columns for the South Dakota Magazine website. I’m grateful for the chance to share what I’m doing and what I’ve seen while appeasing my South Dakota wanderlust. So far, no one has asked me to stop sending photos, so here is to year number five!

While picking topics, I’ve tried to find new things to shoot or different angles on familiar topics so the photos don’t get stale. This month, however, I’m going to revisit a favorite photography theme. This summer, I have chased more storms than any other year. It could be that there have been more storms to chase, but the main reason is that I believe there isn’t much better light to see and capture than the light produced by a thunderstorm rolling across the northern plains, particularly around sunset. Not only is the light dramatic, but the sky itself is often a wonder to behold.

Most folks who chase storms want to witness the power and danger that severe weather can bring. Many are also interested in the science. And some do it as a service to warn residents that may be in harm’s way. I am awestruck when the sky darkens and the clouds boil. However, the best part of the storm is after it has passed. That is when the re-emerging sunlight paints the sky with rainbows, or casts the whole thundercloud into amazing shades of yellow, orange, pink and red. The beauty is fleeting, and no two storm clouds are the same. That’s another reason why chasing is so special.

I have a personal project that involves finding and photographing country churches. An unforeseen but very useful outcome of this project is knowing where the churches are. Then I compare their locations to the radar maps our news stations so generously provide. When chasing the storm, I try to find a prairie steeple to place in the foreground of oncoming or retreating clouds. Having something in the foreground or on the horizon that denotes scale can transform an impressive storm image to an outstanding image. I like to use windmills and barns where possible, as well. I’ve also learned that an open road will do the same thing. Just be mindful of traffic and courteous to local residents.

My favorite windmill to photograph in any interesting weather is just east of Hartford, and I can get there in about 10 minutes. Earlier this month, a squall line on the south edge of a pretty major storm formed northwest of Sioux Falls about a half hour before sunset. I high-tailed it for the windmill in hopes of capturing something amazing. I set up my tripod on the edge of the county road just minutes before shafts of the setting sun broke through the western clouds to paint the southeast sky in colors and detail I had only seen in paintings. It lasted for about two minutes, and then it was gone. Witnessing that is why I chase storms. I am usually amazed and humbled at the same time. Sometimes I get wet too, but that is a small price to pay to take in the beauty after the storm in South Dakota.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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The Season of Color

If you could pick a color to represent summer in South Dakota, what would it be? Azure blue for the summer sky? Maybe green with yellow tints for the prairie pastures? The colors of the rainbow we see after a spring storm? How about a mixture of orange and red for our signature sunsets? How do you color the serene night sky? I don’t know, but one thing is certain: summertime’s palette of color is vibrant and full of life. The rains have been good. For a few months out of the year our landscapes transition from drab tans and browns to lovely green accented with yellow, blue and red flowers. We may not have the vast carpets of wildflower fields like other parts of the world, but the summer wildflower season in South Dakota is still beautiful.

Much of the state is prairie landscape, which means outside of the farm fields, grass is king. However, summer wildflowers aren’t difficult to find. These bursts of color often accent the wide pastures with pleasant shades of yellow or purple. Coneflowers, sunflowers and milkweed also attract colorful butterflies, moths and even birds. A walk on a hillside that has never seen a plow always surprises me with the abundant variety of life mixed with the grasses. It is a great way to spend an afternoon or evening hike with your camera.

Earlier this month, I was surprised to see that you don’t even have to leave the confines Sioux Falls to find wildflowers in abundance. Just north of Cherapa Place on the east side of the Big Sioux River is a large area planted back to native grass and flowers. Such a display of natural color in the midst of our largest city is a feast for the eyes.

Flowers are fun to photograph any time of day, but I’ve had the best luck early in the morning, before the wind comes up and the dew dries. Flowers look good under clouds, too, because the light is diffused more evenly and the shadows are less harsh. My favorite time to hunt wildflowers, however, is early in the evening when the golden light colors the land with warm hues. A macro lens will work wonders, but it is not necessary. A wide-angle lens can take great photos of wildflowers too. I recommend getting down on your knees or even your stomach to shoot the flowers at eye level. Getting down in the grass and looking up provides new and creative perspectives for you and your camera. Be warned, however, that un-photogenic insects like ticks, spiders and ants also live at this level, so be mindful of where you settle in and always wear repellent.

As summer wanes, the sunflower season will get into full swing. You’ll see blooming blazing stars and ironweed, and monarch butterflies will begin their migration to Mexico. But there’s still plenty of time left in the season to find your summer color. Take a hike, bring your camera and enjoy the color of summer while it lasts.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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On the Open Road

On a return flight into Sioux Falls a few years ago, I overheard an interesting conversation. As we taxied in, an out-of-stater asked a local sitting near him if he was home or would he have to drive further. Upon hearing there was still a 2 Ω-hour drive, he marveled at how folks from this region think nothing of getting in the car and driving what would be considered nearly insurmountable distances in other places. It was an interesting glimpse into what travelers from more urban areas sometimes think of our state — a wide-open space to simply drive through as fast as possible. I silently conceded his point about not being afraid of a little driving, but it was clear that this traveler didn’t understand the joy of South Dakota’s open road.

This June I embarked upon an epic road trip of more than 1,100 miles from one corner of the state to the other searching for country churches and running a few important errands. One of those errands was to stop and see my folks in Isabel and consume a slice (or two) of the first rhubarb cream pie of the season. Speaking of epic, that pie deserves a column of its own. It is pure joy for the taste buds. But I digress.

Early June is the best time for a road trip in our great state. The grass is green. The sky is blue and often accented with a dramatic storm cloud or two. The long evening light is golden and pure. When the stars appear on clear nights, the Milky Way makes a dramatic appearance in the southeast sky. Unfortunately the gnats and mosquitoes also love this time of year, but they are easily handled by generous (and sometimes multiple) applications of repellent. A few windshield cleanings will probably be needed as well, but that’s a small price to pay to get out and see the state at its best.

Photography has taught me a few things about the open road. First, don’t hurry. You can’t see the beauty of a cactus in bloom if you are cruising over 65 miles per hour. Second, if there is a back road or an alternate route, it’s probably worth taking. Third, don’t be afraid of gravel or names like”The Bad River Road.” It’s one of the best drives in the state, and it is all gravel. I try to always keep a camera”in the ready” while cruising down back roads. You never know when you’ll crest a hill and see amazing light play across the prairie or a bird of prey watching you from a roadside fence.

As I struggle to bring this to a fitting conclusion, I again realize I’m not a skilled enough wordsmith to truly explain my love affair with road tripping. The photos tell the story of my trip better than I ever could. That may sound like a cop out, but you know what? I’ve got the sudden urge to grab my camera and hit the road to somewhere. So I’m out of here. See you somewhere out on the open road!

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Nature’s Fireworks

The Northern lights, or aurora borealis, have been casting an amazing glow across the northern part of the continent this week. It’s not common to see them in South Dakota, but last weekend’s geomagnetic storm on the sun’s surface was one of the strongest since September of 2005. The aurora is caused when those charged particles from the sun interact with gaseous particles in the Earth’s atmosphere, producing a rainbow of colors.
Christian Begeman took these photos late Monday night and early Tuesday morning. Another solar storm is forecast for tonight (Wednesday), so there’s a good chance to see the lights again. The best viewing time is between 11 p.m. and 4 a.m., when skies are clear and dark. Look to the north and hope.
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A Walk in the Woods

I am not a man of the trees. I grew up under the open sky and rolling prairie. Trees were something I had to mow around in the back yard or cut down for firewood in the crick. A forest to me was any track of trees wider than three across. Therefore any story or fairy tale that featured mysterious woods held all the more magic for me. When I first hiked in the silent Ponderosa pines of the Black Hills, I was surprised at how quiet the world became. Nowadays, when I walk in the woods, I notice other things. I hear songs of unseen birds, see the flicker of a butterfly wings and catch glimpses of wildflower color, all of which make great subjects to put in front of a camera.

Photographing unseen birds, however, is impossible. Finding those birds is why I’ve spent more time in the woods of Eastern South Dakota this year than any other. It started in February when a local birder reported seeing Northern Saw-whet owls at Newton Hills State Park. This little owl is usually only found on the western side of the state. I had never seen one before and after three unsuccessful trips, I nearly walked into one resting in some young cedars north of the Horse Camp area of the park. The elfin owl looked at me with wide and unblinking eyes, seemingly unconcerned and possibly a little annoyed. I slowly backed away. The owl began to relax and fall back asleep. It may seem like I’m overstating things, but it felt like I was in one of those old fairy tales for just a moment.

Last spring I witnessed/photographed the warbler and songbird migration for the first time. I saw bold and brightly colored birds that I’d never seen before. I guess I was hooked because this spring I was back in the woods searching for more. It is a lesson in patience and listening. At Lake Herman State Park near Madison, I sat for a couple of hours in the trees as waves of warblers made their way through every 10 minutes or so. At Newton Hills State Park, I heard the distinct buzz of a hummingbird along the trail. I sat for an hour or two watching two male Ruby-throated hummingbirds make their rounds from perched preening to feeding on flowering bushes and wild bergamot blooms then achieving amazing aerial acrobatics while squabbling with each other — and then starting the sequence all over again.

I have a goal to photograph all the colorful birds that call South Dakota home. One that has eluded me to this day is the Scarlet Tanager. They are best found in Union Grove State Park or Newton Hills and are colored crimson red with black wings. This year, I made three separate trips to find them. I also took time to learn their song and call. This helped me find a female at dusk at Union Grove, but I could not get a decent photo. Later in the week, as I began another search at Newton Hills, a Summer Tanager flew to a tree next to me and gave me a long look. It was a real treat because the Summer Tanager is much rarer to find in South Dakota than the Scarlet. Later in the day, I finally saw my first male Scarlet … well, his tail feathers anyway. By the time I spotted him, he was flying deep into the tangled woods. I was disappointed. Then I thought that maybe this was an invitation.”Come back into the woods. Lose yourself amongst the leaves, listen to the song I sing and maybe one day we will meet.” I look forward to that day.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Dakota Awakening

Another spring is settling in. I like to muse that the season is much more than simply another tilt of the planet back towards the sun. It’s the annual promise of new life. It’s another chance to smell rain on the wind. It’s another year to chase the light and see what is beyond the next bend. Springtime provides a lot to be thankful for, but also is a time of nostalgia for me. I remember life awakening on the farm, the smell of the first cut grass, the song of the meadowlark from a distant fencepost and the smell of plowed earth at planting time. This year, the season’s signature flourish of raindrops and rainbows have been few and far between, but thankfully that has not stopped the return of waterfowl on the wind, the greening of the grass and the budding of leaves. The songbirds and wildflowers are back, there’s new warmth in the breeze and the sky seems a bit more blue. Happy Spring everyone!

March 11

While checking the status of ice on area lakes, I startled a large group of migrating waterfowl hanging out in a pond of snowmelt near Silver Lake in northeast Hutchinson County.


March 20

On the official first day of spring I took a sunset hike around the edge of Buffalo Slough south of Chester. All ice is completely gone.


March 31

I found a rather large, wild pasqueflower patch a few miles south of Lake Vermillion including a lovely little natural bouquet of five.


April 4

Just like last spring, a lunar eclipse took place, but dawn approached too quickly to see the full”blood moon.” This photo was taken roughly 20 minutes before totality above Skresfrud Lutheran of rural Lincoln County. Since I was already up, I checked the bird feeders at Good Earth State Park and watched the early bird (robin) get its worm.


April 5

Temperatures reached the low 70s on this Easter Day. In the afternoon, I went looking for snow trillium at Newton Hills State Park and found many blossoms as well as a half dozen Question Mark butterflies soaking up the day’s warmth amongst the last year’s leaves.


April 12

A spring day for the books! First I explored Union Grove State Park to find an early flowering bush along the trail. Later, after a brief thunderstorm passed, an afternoon rainbow graced the sky over the fields of Union County. In the evening another rainbow appeared on the northwest edge of Vermillion and the magic was far from over. As I drove back to Sioux Falls, the setting sun painted the retreating rain clouds pink and blue north of Chancellor.


April 18

A steady, light rain fell for most of the afternoon in Sioux Falls. It was much needed moisture. I spent some time in the Japanese Garden area of Terrace Park to see if I could capture the mood of the day. I was accompanied by a variety of geese, ducks and songbirds, including a male northern cardinal with raindrops glistening on its vibrant feathers.


Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Rock Solid Faith

During the last two years I have sought out as many South Dakota country churches as I can find. Over the course of my wanderings, three unique and historic church buildings made entirely of stone have captured my imagination. I wanted to show them partly because we just celebrated Holy Week, which for many South Dakotans means an extra emphasis in the beliefs that root our faith. The other reason is to remember the hard work and strong community ties that went into constructing and maintaining these buildings.

Photographing these churches presents a challenge. I always want to capture them in the most beautiful light or weather possible, but more importantly I want to both respect and convey the significance of these places. Often I am literally treading on holy ground. I was surprised to find each church in this column unlocked and open to the public, with only small signs reminding to close the door when leaving or simply asking to sign the guestbook. That is South Dakota at its best.

The oldest stone church I visited was Historic Lakeport Church and St. John the Baptist Cemetery in Yankton County. This building was started in 1882 and finished in 1884, constructed from chalkstone quarried from the Missouri River cliffs south of the church site. Regular services are no longer held, but I did learn that Mass is still held once a year followed by a potluck. Lakeport is also affectionately known as”the smiling church,” nicknamed because its front windows and door form the image of wide eyes and a grin.

Chapel of the Holy Spirit, found roughly 3 miles south of the Grand River in rural Corson County, is a church I knew as a kid growing up in Isabel. I had a friend that would attend from time to time and he just referred to it as the”old stone church.” It wasn’t until I was in college that I actually got out to see it. The chapel was built in 1922 with stone quarried from a nearby bluff of Firesteel Creek under the direction of the Episcopalian Mission to the Standing Rock Reservation. To get there you must travel quite a few miles on gravel and then prairie dirt roads. Once at the site, it truly does feel as if you’ve taken a step back in time.

Our Savior’s Lutheran, found 6 miles south of Menno on the James River, was built with rocks found in nearby fields. Lloyd Sorlien was 8 years old when the building was finished in 1948. He clearly remembers helping gather rock in neighboring fields as well as attending services in the basement until the building was finished. Lloyd also told me how his dad had a particular skill for knowing where to hit a rock with his 10-pound mallet so it would split just the right way. He also pointed out a cross in the front of the church made from rocks brought over from Norway.

As much as I hope these grand old buildings stay standing as reminders of what once was, I’m also reminded that a church isn’t a church without the people that belong to it. That sense of community has always been strong in South Dakota in one form or another, whether religious, family or civic based. I’m hopeful that we South Dakotans continue in this grand old tradition for many years to come.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Upon Further Reflection

As the end of February approaches, the days of melting snow, muddy shoes and the long awaited first signs of spring are right around the corner. I loved this time of year as a kid. Not so much because spring was coming, but for all the fun I found playing in the roads and trails on our little dairy farm. My imagination ran wild as I dammed and diverted melt water into canals and rivers. Then I’d turn into Godzilla and destroy all my work with stomping, kicking and gleeful mayhem. The only problem explaining to Mom why my coveralls were covered in mud. I suppose I’m too old to go play in the mud and melt water nowadays. But photography has given me another way to go have fun this time of year, because it’s a great time to shoot reflection photos.

Earlier this month, there was a brief warm up. It was enough to get some extra melt water flowing at Falls Park in downtown Sioux Falls. During this warm spell and after work one evening, I happened to notice the clouds were lining up for a colorful sunset. I hustled down to the park just in time to catch the sky turn golden with reflected light. My favorite photo of the evening wasn’t of the sky though, but the reflection of the clouds in the running water.

Just a week earlier, I had witnessed a beautiful pink/purple sunset times two in a reflection on the open water of the Missouri River at Myron’s Grove boat ramp in southwest Clay County. It reminded me of a view of our state capital building in Pierre that I witnessed last April on a still night from the Fort Pierre side. The graceful dome shone twice as nice with the help of the relatively calm waters of the Missouri River. Reflections like that can magically take a good scene and make it memorable.

I was asked recently if I prefer to get crisp and clear water reflection photos or the long exposure variety that smooth the flowing water and give it a misty, almost ghostlike quality. I had to think about that one for a while. To be completely honest I like to capture both if I can. A perfect mirror reflection requires a short exposure and often results in dramatic and powerful images. The long exposure water photos add a sense of mystery and elegance to the scene, which can be quite beautiful as well.

One last thing. I am fully aware that finding calm water may be difficult in our great state where the wind likes to blow. But all is not lost. This time of year provides ample opportunity to find interesting reflections in icicles and iced over melt water as well. As for the mud and mess that will result, I can’t help you.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Only the Best

As I write this, snow is beginning to fall outside my window and the wind is picking up. January can be a tough month to get photographically inspired. Cold temperatures, biting wind and the muted colors of winter won’t necessarily get a normal person excited to go out and make a photograph. Recently I discovered something that helped me get out and shoot consistently every month. I’m glad I did, as the cold months in the Northern Plains have proven to be just as photogenic as any other time.

Late in 2012, I ran across this Ansel Adams quote:”Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” I spent a lot of time thinking about that quote and then began to apply it to how I posted photos on my blog. For all of 2013 and 2014, I resolved to only post the 12 best photos I took each month. This taught me two very important things: If I was going to post 12 photos labeled my”best,” then they better be good photos, and if I was going to post 12 a month, then I better get off the couch and start shooting.

Approaching my photography hobby in this manner actually inspired me to shoot more than I ever did. Getting 12 good photos meant I would have to shoot a lot more than 12, plus I wanted variety. I didn’t want eight photos of the various moods of my dog. I also learned a lot about self-critiquing, a skill that all aspiring photographers should have. I belong to a couple photography social media groups. I’ve noticed that photographers who I think are top-notch don’t post a photo every day or even every week, but when they do the photos are usually exquisite. It only makes sense. If you are going to show the world your photography, why not only show the best? How do you get your best? You keep searching, learning and creating.

Another great thing about approaching my photography passion in this manner is that it often creates diverse opportunities and new horizons. I never would have gotten into birding if it weren’t for looking for new and interesting photographs to make. Like most photographers, I used to be only interested in sunsets, landscapes and wildflowers. Now I can walk into a wooded valley, stop and listen and tell you species of birds that are in the area just by hearing their vocalizations, which is really fun even if I don’t take a photo.

The photos accompanying this story are 12 of my best photos taken in South Dakota in January. From winter sunsets to macro shots of frost on my window, it shows my photographic journey through the month. Whether Mr. Adams would find the photos”significant” or not, I don’t know, but I do know that I’ve become a better and more diverse photographer because of it.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing South Dakota’s prettiest spots. Follow Begeman on his blog.