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Art of Healing

Sixteen people begin teaching new fine arts classes in Yankton this month. They’re all volunteers with the Art of Healing program started by Amy Miner, executive director of the Yankton Area Arts Association.

Art of Healing is in partnership with the Avera Sacred Heart Cancer Center and is offered free for cancer survivors or those undergoing treatment. Students may choose from classes like ballroom dancing, drawing, calligraphy, wine making, poetry and sculpture. I’ll be teaching a six-week session on yoga for beginners starting next week. Each class is small and personal. Participants can bring a relative, co-survivor, or caregiver for support. And this is not a time to worry about talent or ability. The classes are for exploration, discovery and having fun.

The initial response to the program has been slow, but Miner is optimistic. She is also a breast cancer survivor and taught guitar lessons for a similar program while living in Hawaii.”The Hawaiians celebrate this wonderful concept called kahi’au, which simply means to give what goodness and talent you have freely with no expectation of any return,” says Miner. It’s a beautiful concept. I look forward to teaching with this program and watching it grow. Besides, Miner says it will be good for my karma. So I guess it’s not entirely without compensation.

If you would like to take part in the Art of Healing Program as a student or volunteer, call or email Amy at 665-9754 and yaa@iw.net. Participants can sign up for as many or few classes as they would like. Please pass this information along if you know of anyone who could benefit!

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Oldest Beer Joint in South Dakota

If anyone is serving beer in an older building, let us know. But we figure that the Excelsior Mill in downtown Yankton probably takes the cake.

Two brick and stone structures were built in 1872 as a flour mill. Several hundred bags of flour were milled, packaged and shipped both east and west to prairie farm towns, forts, reservations and eventually to gold miners in the Black Hills.

Yankton was alive with manufacturing in the 1870s. Factories were set up to make beer, bricks, soap, combs, cigars and other goods.

Eventually, the flour mill became part of the Gurney Seed & Nursery complex, and local entrepreneur Paul Lowrie took over the buildings when Gurney’s closed. He has been laboring to find appropriate uses for the sprawling space by the Missouri on the south edge of Yankton. Several years ago, he created a popular nightclub called The Landing, and now the Old Mill — a few doors away on Capitol Street — has also opened as a tavern on Friday nights.

It’s not fancy. Utility company spools serve as tables. You can toss peanut shells on the ancient wood floors. The brick and beams are visible, and you can almost smell the wheat. Or maybe that’s the beer?

But it immediately ranks as one of the most historic places in the West where you can enjoy a cold brew.

Eventually, the Old Mill will be open more often. Live music is planned, and the menu will expand beyond brats.

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Yes We Can. No You Can’t.

Yes, I’m a part-time politician. But I’ve always tried to not be a Corps-basher. I know a lot of good and caring people work for the big bureaucracy that dammed our favorite river. Many of them are friends and neighbors here in Yankton.

But only one word comes to mind to describe the two-hour meeting on Wednesday night (Nov. 30) at the Kelly Inn, a rifle shot away from the wild Missouri.

That word? Frustration.

Four Corps engineers came to report on a six-year study of the sedimentation problem on Lewis and Clark Lake. The lake was 25 miles long when Gavins Point Dam was built 60 years ago. Today it is 17 miles long. The upper portion has become a delta (the Corps word for it), or a swamp in layman’s language.

Some 2,400 acre feet of water storage has been lost, which compounded the flooding this summer. That represents 22% of the lake’s total capacity.

Sedimentation has already affected fish and wildlife species and the overall ecosystem. It will eventually damage water recreation and economic development. It is a serious problem.

So a hundred people — most of them, knowledgeable river rats who love the Missouri — gathered at the inn hoping for a vision. For answers. For leadership.

So at last comes the Corps study on sedimentation. Yes, we can flush the lake and remove sedimentation, said Paul Boyd, a hydraulic engineer. We can remove the silt and clay. The sand? That’s another matter. It’s really hard to move the sand out of the reservoir.

Paul Boyd speaks for an hour, showing graphs and charts of the computer modeling.

Then an old-timer in the rear of the room stands up and drawls, “How much of that …. delta … at Springfield is sand and how much is silt and clay?”

It’s mostly sand, said Mr. Boyd.

Furthermore, the lake would have to be almost entirely drained, then flushed with huge releases from Fort Randall Dam, and then refilled — all in a three-week cycle that would entail discharges of 88,000 to as high as 176,000 CFS. The latter is higher than the highest discharges this summer that overwhelmed the river valley, ruined farmland and destroyed homes and gardens. All of that to remove the silt and clay, which really isn’t the problem.

There were not that many more questions. I am sure that everyone in the room — even those most in support of a sedimentation solution — were silently thinking, “is this all there is … after a six-year study?”

The engineers stressed that they only asked the question of whether flushing would work. They didn’t study the social, political, economic and environmental aspects.

I imagine that will take four more studies at six years each.

This is a country that built the Missouri River dams a scant two generations ago. We won two world wars and a cold war. We invented the threshing machine and the automobile and the internet. We made free education and home ownership not a dream but a right. And today it takes our federal government six years to say yes, we can flush the lake and flood your homes if you want us to?

Is it any wonder that we can’t solve health care and school issues?

We need vision, both from the politicians and the bureaucrats. The hundred people at the inn were hungry for a path to progress. They left the room hungrier than when they came.

It reminds me of a study done in the late 19th century on how to solve the horse manure problem in New York City. Experts studied the problem and came to the conclusion that there were no reasonable solutions other than to reduce the size of the city population.

The Corps of Engineers needs to find a Henry Ford.

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She Shoots Like a Girl

By Bernie Hunhoff

It takes a lot of people to produce and publish South Dakota Magazine, about a dozen to be exact. And we’re proud of every one of them — both for what they do during work hours here at 410 E. Third Street, and also for all they do after hours.

Our staff includes two yoga instructors, a marathon runner, several great chefs, a hockey mom, a Girl Scout leader, etc. They are also dedicated community volunteers, super moms and dads, and all their children are above average. You get the point.

But we have only one deer hunter. That would be Jana Jonas Lane, a mostly-quiet and reserved young lady who runs our circulation department. If you get the magazine by mail (as most of our readers do) then you can thank her, because she manages our 43,000-name mailing list.

Jana and her husband Jim have two young daughters, so you can imagine how busy she is. She occasionally likes to do a little hunting, but Jim teases that she “shoots like a girl.” He hasn’t said that for a week now.

The story goes like this. All the local hunters east of Yankton have been watching and waiting for a big 5-point buck that appeared on game cams in the Jim River valley over the summer. The whitetail was very cagey, and wasn’t often spotted in daylight.

On opening weekend of the East River season, Jana spent a few Saturday hours in the cold and howling wind, wondering why she wasn’t indoors with her two little girls, Rain and Rose. She saw a few does and a big buck with a broken antler, but eventually she went home to warm up.

Sunday dawned with a shining, warm sun. The wind was down and pheasants were cackling. Geese were flying overhead. “It’s amazing what sunshine will do for the soul after a cloudy day,” she said. “I saw a couple of does pass through our CRP and I looked over and saw a really nice buck as he was headed into a tree line.” It was the big Jim River buck!

She says her heart started racing, and she told herself to relax and be ready. Minutes passed but he didn’t reappear. Meanwhile, a second buck walked by. It stopped to watch something. Then a doe appeared and crawled through the fence between a pasture and trees. The second buck chased after her.

Jana heard crashing sounds and saw a blur of motion in the switch grass and big blue stem. Eventually, the big buck appeared. He paused about 150 yards in front of her.

Then a young buck came along. It looked at Jana and slowly walked into the trees. A fourth buck came along, chasing after a doe, and they disappeared into the tree line.

Jana took aim at the 5-pointer, through the scope of her .308 Remington, and fired. Just like a girl. She got the Jim River buck.

She’s not a braggart, but nothing’s stopping the rest of us from telling everyone we can.

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Walk On Water in Yankton

Now the historic bridge will be a pathway for joggers and walkers, baby carriages, bicyclists, skateboarders and the like. It is the longest pedestrian bridge in the USA that connects two states over a major river. The Newport Bridge, an 1896 railroad bridge that links Kentucky and Cincinnati, had that distinction until today. It is 2,670 feet long, and was redone for foot traffic about a decade ago. The Meridian easily surpasses it at 3,013 feet. The third longest is a new structure, the Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge, built to connect Omaha with Council Bluffs, Iowa. It measures 2,224 feet.
Today at 3 p.m. the Meridian Bridge will be re-opened to the public after being closed for three years. But the bridge will never see another 18-wheeler … and it isn’t even likely to carry a compact car.

Eventually, Yanktonians and Nebraskans hope that walking/biking paths will connect the Meridian Bridge to the bridge over Gavins Point Dam, about four miles to the west. A path already exists on the South Dakota side, and Nebraska officials are making plans for theirs. The 12-mile loop would instantly become one of the most unique trails in the USA, taking hikers and bikers past eagle roosts, quaint restaurants, a sailing marina, small farms and forested river bottom. City officials in Yankton also hope to design and build an attractive plaza at the foot of the bridge.

The Meridian is one of the very few double-decker bridges in the nation. It took its name from the Meridian Highway (US Hwy 81) that cuts through the Americas from Winnipeg to Panama City. Yankton citizens took it upon themselves to fund and build the bridge in 1924 because they thought state officials were too slow in getting the project started. They paid for it with tolls until the debt was retired in 1953.

The bottom deck was intended for rail traffic, but a north-south train route to Yankton never materialized, so officials sent northbound traffic on the top and southbound traffic below. Its classic towers were designed with hydraulic lifts to allow ships to pass underneath. However, ships have been as rare as trains.

Cars and trucks traveled the bridge to the tune of 5,000 or more a day until a new bridge was completed in 2008. Historians on both sides of the river objected to having the old bridge destroyed. In fact, local leaders agreed that they would settle for a plain design on the new bridge so long as the savings were directed to preserving the Meridian as a footbridge.

So beginning this Thanksgiving week, after a very long wait and $4 million or more of your tax dollars, the old Meridian will once again carry traffic. Now you can walk on the Missouri without getting your feet wet.

We hope to see you there.

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Yankton Paid a Price

Would Yankton be the capital city of South Dakota today if our forefathers would have behaved themselves?

Of course, that’s water under the bridge. But this year marks the 150th observance of Yankton’s founding and the creation of our territorial government is a proper occasion to learn from the past. The truth is that we could have been a better capital city, and we paid a price.

First of all, we should have done the obvious things like investing in the construction of a governor’s mansion and a capitol building, and sharing the spoils with our potential opponents from the north and west.

We did the exact opposite. As I recall, the capitol building that we did build was eventually moved east of town and rehabbed into a chicken coop. Every governor had to build his own home, and most of them came from the South where they didn’t suffer our frost-freeze cycle, so all but one of their”mansions” were soon torn down. (The only one still standing, The Pennington House, now provides offices for our South Dakota Magazine at 3rd & Pearl.)

And as for spoils for the opponents? Gov. Pennington was a good man and probably one of the top territorial governors, but even he had his peccadilloes. For example, he created Pennington County, modestly had it named it for himself, and then proceeded to appoint his friends, rather than Black Hills leaders, to the county posts. Many of them didn’t even go West to serve — they handled the duties from Yankton.

Patronage was almost the order of the day, but there were far worse transgressions. Some of our Yankton streets (Burleigh and Picotte) now honor the names of early leaders who were the subject of numerous complaints about election irregularities, bribery and other forms of corruption.

Even the Yankton gang quarreled among themselves. There were rivalries and jealousies between businessmen on Broadway and Capitol streets, according to historian Herbert Schell’s fine book, The History of South Dakota.

Indian issues, railroad rights-of-way, the formation of counties and numerous other challenges faced the territorial legislature and the Yankton leaders. They muddled their way along, as governments usually do, but not many citizens in the sprawling Dakota Territory were impressed with their Yankton leadership.

The local gang knew of the growing dissension, but they felt they had an advantage because any re-organization of the territory had to occur within the city limits of Yankton.”Undaunted by such legal obstacles,” wrote Schell,”the nine members (of the capitol commission) secretly proceeded to Sioux City where in the early hours of April 3, 1883, they boarded a special train consisting of an engine and a single coach, and set out for the capital. As they reached the city limits at about six o’clock that morning, they halted the train briefly while they organized themselves. Then followed a junketing through the Territory by the ‘The Capital on Wheels,’ as the commission was nicknamed ….”

That midnight trip doomed Yankton as the state capital. We had it and we let it slip from our grasp — because of greed, self-interest and a frugal disinclination to make smart investments at the right moment.

I’m not suggesting that there are any lessons to be learned in this sad story. But you know what they say about history ….

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The Last Nurseryman

Working for the corporate nursery that bore his name became intolerable so Jay Gurney (above) and his father repeated the family tradition of starting their own operation.

One of the saddest days of Jay Gurney’s life came in 1977 when his father lost his job at what had been the family nursery.”I helped my father gather up his stuff,” he remembers.

By the early 1940s the Gurney family no longer owned the historic family business in Yankton. The company changed owners several times and was eventually bought by American Garden Products.”Shortly after my grandfather’s death, the company said to my father Sidney: ‘We’ll offer you $100 to continue using your name and likeness in our mail order catalog. If you don’t sign the agreement, you’re fired.'”

When Sidney was terminated, he had worked as vice president and in other positions for 45 years, except during his World War II military service. Jay was also working for the company that bore his family name when his father was told to leave.

“I was about 26 years old and ran their greenhouse. I could see there wasn’t much future there for me if they fired my father,” Jay says.

A few days later, Jay and Sidney purchased 10 acres of land at the edge of Yankton and started the Sid & Jay Gurney Greenhouse just a block away from the corporate Gurney’s.

The officials made two mistakes. The first was when they threatened Jay.”As I gathered up my things I was told I’d never work in the business again anywhere and if I started my own business with Gurney in the name, they would sue me. I said, ‘Well, we’ll see.’ That’s what spurred me on during those hard startup years.”

In fact, the corporate lawyers did eventually sue the father and son for using their own last name in the new business. It was decided out of court that the Gurneys could use their name as long as they added a tag line that they were not affiliated with Gurney Seed & Nursery Inc.

C.W. Gurney, the patriarch of the nursery family (pictured center), started his first operation in Iowa after the Civil War. He also operated in Nebraska before arriving in Yankton in 1898, where he eventually incorporated the business with seven sons and a nephew.

Jay’s great-grandfather, C.W. Gurney, faced hard times, too, when he founded Hesperian Nurseries in 1869 along a homesteading trail 60 miles southeast of Yankton. Homesteaders needed trees for proof of settlement and for shade, fruit, windbreak and as reminders of home.

Hesperian Nurseries operated differently than modern-day nurseries. The Gurneys didn’t collect payment until a year after planting, and only charged for trees that were still thriving. C.W. Gurney’s planting and tree care techniques kept his nursery business solvent with the two-season guarantee. He and his sons established a branch of his business called Yankton Nursery in 1898. Later it was known as House of Gurney and it became Gurney Seed and Nursery Company in 1941.

Jay’s grandfather, George Walter Gurney, was a nurseryman in Yankton his whole life.”Gramps knew what to do with nursery stock and when to do it. I grew up in the nursery world. By the time I was 13, I could shear a hedge, prune a tree and maintain a garden. I learned to wear gloves when working with barberry bushes.

“Gramps was forever hoeing his large garden. His lawn was dandelion-free. I learned the most from Gramps, first tending his yard, and later in the fields.”

Jay remembers his grandfather’s nursery rules.”‘When you use a shovel, you clean it right away,’ my grandfather would say.” George also wanted sharp gardening tools.”He’d say, ‘Rough cut plants don’t heal well.'”

Sidney was in poor health as he and Jay started their new venture, but the father-son duo had a lot going for them. The Missouri River bottomland nourished their plants and they had plenty of space for greenhouses, a retail store, and a home right on the property. Eventually, they moved the retail store to the farm, which sits along Ferdig Avenue on the east edge of Yankton.

“While it was a drawback to have a major nursery in the same town, we knew their company well,” Jay recalls.”They offered catalog sales and bare root plants. By the early 1980s many people wanted container plants that were available locally and were ready to plant when they wanted. We offered potted plants and grew bedding plants that the mail order company didn’t have.”

Sales were slow those first years.”You can have the right ideas, but they don’t always work out perfectly,” Jay says.”You have to commit yourself. Hail, blizzards, and summer storms knock buildings down. You can’t look back. Just fix them and keep going.”

Sidney died just three years after starting the new nursery, but Jay gained family support from his mother, Jane, his wife, Tracy, and mother-in-law Lucy Holdorf.

An 1893 Gurneys poster illustrated how homesteaders might organize an orchard.

“They transplant in the greenhouse and work in the store and fields. They are the reason we made it through the tough years,” he says.

Most full-service nurseries locate near larger population centers for obvious reasons. But the Gurneys have plenty of competition from national chains that import plants and flowers by the truckload.

“The box store signs say ‘Visit our nursery.’ But nothing is grown from a seedling or produced there,” Jay says.”We have a selection of plants and supplies on hand for the customer. We process bare root trees into container plants, grow plants in our fields, do tree spading, have a landscape service and a retail store.”

Plus the local greenhouse is staffed with people who love plants.”Gardeners usually don’t bring wilted leaves and insects to identify to the big box store like they do here,” Jay says.”And when those stores feature plants in early spring, sometimes you need to say that the ground isn’t warm enough for planting here yet. You may lose the sale because no one wants to be told ‘no.’ They don’t tell you ‘no’ in the big box store. To me it’s the right sale if it’s the right plant for the right place at the right time. Great-grandfather Gurney warned homesteaders about fly-by-night nurserymen. Earning customer trust is the best guarantee for business success.”

Today, the former corporate Gurney headquarters sit vacant on Second Street. Town leaders are hoping something positive will happen with the property, which sits between the downtown area and the Missouri River. A Gurney Seed & Nursery catalog is still published, but it comes from somewhere in Indiana. It no longer mentions Yankton or features pictures of the Gurney family members.

Jay says the company was good for the Yankton community for decades, and he’s glad that it still elicits fond memories for people. But when you’re continuing a fourth-generation occupation, it’s hard to find time for philosophizing any further than that.”After all that has happened,” he says,”we moved on.”

Editor’s Note: This story was revised from the July/August 2009 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

Jay Gurney’s Growing Tips

Visit your local nursery several times over the season to peruse peak blooming varieties and create a colorful yard from spring until fall.

Don’t be in a hurry to plant in early spring. What blooms in the greenhouse early may not perform well in hot weather. Jay’s grandfather used to say, ‘Once the tulip leaves turn brown, it’s time to put the bedding plants in.’ This accounts for changeable weather each year.

Let purchased plants adapt to local conditions before planting so they won’t go into transfer shock and not grow well. Or consider the local nursery that does this for you.

Customers often ask Jay when to prune plants. His rule of thumb is that you can always prune when you have your clippers in hand.

Customers also want to know when it becomes too late to plant. As long as the ground isn’t frozen, you can plant. In general, bare root trees and shrubs grow better when you plant them in the spring. Container plants can be planted anytime the ground isn’t frozen.

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Gardener’s Pie

Crispy bacon and goat cheese adorn this beet pie. Photo and recipe by Katie Hunhoff.

Gundy’s Market in Yankton is a fun Saturday morning stop, and a nice place to find fresh produce to experiment with in the kitchen.

The little market is located right next to Yankton’s famous Charlie’s Pizza House. Diana Gunderson manages Charlie’s, with help from her husband, Jon. They also have a Mission Hill farm where Jon raises cattle without growth hormone or antibiotics. Each Saturday they open the market at 9 a.m. to sell their beef along with with farm fresh eggs, locally grown pork, poultry and lamb. In the summer and early fall they also have produce from their large garden, and Diana makes honey, oatmeal and flaxseed breads. A cute little milk truck adds to the atmosphere – but you have to remember to bring your own milk jugs.

Last weekend I purchased some beets on a whim. They were gorgeous, bright purplish red. I was pretty surprised when I peeled one and saw it was white on the inside. A google search told me it was a Chioggia beet — even sweeter than a typical red beet, with the consistency of a potato. Intrigued, I decided to blend some ingredients into a sweet twist on a shepherd’s pie. The result was both sweet and savory. It was also very filling, and perfect for a chilly fall day.

Back to Charlie’s Pizza — they recently won an award from Food Network Magazine for having one of the 50 best pizzas in the country. The winner was the Festus, a spicy meatball and sauerkraut concoction. I think that Gundy’s beef may be one of the reasons it won the honor.

Gardener’s Pie

2 pounds Chioggia beets
3 carrot sticks
1 medium onion
3 garlic cloves
1/2 cup roasted walnuts (bake in oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes)
6 slices cooked bacon or pancetta, crumbled
5 ounce package of goat cheese (mine was 5.8 ounces)
1 baked pie crust

First, you need to roast the vegetables. Pre-heat the oven at 400 degrees. Peel beets and carrots with a vegetable peeler. Spray beets, carrots, and onion with olive oil, sprinkle with a bit of salt and wrap individually in tin foil. I also placed the three garlic cloves in with the onion. Place on a cookie sheet and in oven to roast for approximately one hour, or until you can easily pierce with a fork. Chioggia beets are a bit trickier to roast than their red cousins. They cook quicker – and will turn an ugly gray if overcooked.

If your pie crust isn’t already prepared, this would be a good time to begin your pie crust. And a good time to roast the walnuts, and cook the bacon.

When vegetables are done, remove from oven and cut into very small pieces. Stir all vegetables together with the soft goat cheese. Place in pie crust and bake at 325 degrees for 20 minutes. Top with crumbled bacon and goat cheese crumbles.

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Civil War Mystery Solved

Jacob Franklin Kinna’s headstone will be placed at his gravesite in Yankton after years of lying hidden under a house in Warner, south of Aberdeen. Photo by Col. Michael Herman.

Civil War veteran Jacob Franklin Kinna has lain nearly forgotten in an unmarked grave in Yankton Cemetery for 118 years. As it turns out, his tombstone has also lain forgotten in a tiny town 225 miles away. Thanks to some dogged research by genealogists at the state historical society in Pierre, the stone will finally be placed at Kinna’s grave during a special ceremony at Yankton Cemetery on Saturday, Sept. 10.

The grave marker was undiscovered until 1979 when house movers found it under the front porch of Gerold Zumbaum’s home in Warner, south of Aberdeen. They raised the house to work on the foundation and saw the white marble, government issued tombstone lying in dirt. There were no cemeteries nearby, and no one came forward to claim the stone, so Zumbaum stored it in his basement.

Local veterans heard about the marker and felt compelled to place it on the soldier’s grave. But they couldn’t find it. They searched fruitlessly in Brown County and finally sought help from staff at the state archives. Researchers Virginia Hanson and Lori Carpenter, both specialists in genealogy, immersed themselves in old newspapers and census, Civil War and land records. Soon Kinna’s story emerged.

He was born in Virginia in 1840. By 1863, the third year of the Civil War, he was living in Ohio, where he enlisted in Company C, 12th Regiment of the Ohio Cavalry. After training, Kinna and his company saw action in battles at Mount Sterling, Ky., Bristol, Tenn., and Dallas, N.C. His time in the military ended in November 1865.

After the war, Kinna and his family lived in Indiana and Illinois. In 1887 he homesteaded near Ordway in Brown County and joined the Robert Anderson Post 19 Grand Army of the Republic for Civil War veterans in Aberdeen. A few years later, he moved again to Yankton, where he settled two miles west of town.

On Dec. 2, 1893, Kinna was shot in the shoulder while trying to scare a trespassing hunter off his property. The wound became infected and he died 18 days later. Veterans from Yankton’s Phil Kearney Post 7 chapter of the GAR buried Kinna in an unmarked grave in the city cemetery.

But Hanson discovered a cemetery records book compiled by WPA workers in the 1930s that included detailed descriptions of every burial in certain South Dakota cemeteries. She found the entry for Kinna and was able to locate his exact burial plot.

She also located two of Kinna’s direct descendants: a man living in Cheboygan, Mich., and Kinna’s 80-year-old great-granddaughter in Washington state. Both have been invited to attend the Sept. 10 ceremony.

Researchers still don’t know why Kinna moved to Yankton, why his grave was never marked or how the tombstone ended up under a porch in Warner. But when his marker is finally set, with military rites by the South Dakota National Guard’s burial detail, we’ll know he was afforded the honor he should have received in 1893.