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South Dakota Road Adventures

We have a feature in our current South Dakota Magazine (July/August) on traveling Old Highway 16. At first I wanted to title it “Highway 16: The Perfect S.D. Road Trip” but my fellow editors talked me out of that. It sounds like the perfect road trip to me, but probably isn’t for those who don’t want to go off-roading for a few miles here or there. Our photographer nearly collided with a longhorn cow in Haakon County.

Luckily, we have several other summer travel recommendations for those who like their roads more civilized. Here are some basic recommendations for road-tripping 16, and a few other highlights from our summer travel issue.

Highway 16 covers a 400-mile stretch between our east and west borders, connecting Sioux Falls with Rapid City and several smaller communities along the way. It was part of a 1,600-mile passage between Detroit and Yellowstone National Park that was linked nearly a century ago. A group formed in 1919 to promote the journey in South Dakota, which intersected at times with Highways 14 and 20.

Take time to travel the back roads that are now Highway 16 and you’ll find many remnants of its heyday, including places that made the transition to Interstate 90 such as Wall Drug, the Pioneer Auto Show in Murdo and Reptile Gardens. There are also some great restaurants, like Al’s Oasis, Hutch’s in Presho and the Back 40 near Kimball, a renovated Highway 16 gas station.

For a complete guide to 16, see our July/August issue. Or, like the article’s author, you can play it by ear and see if you can piece together the old roadway on your own. Old 16 enters South Dakota from Minnesota as 262nd Street at Valley Springs, just east of Sioux Falls. The highway is easier to find on the other side of the state because it is still known as U.S. Highway 16.

Our current issue also highlights our state’s 13 National Natural Landmarks, any of which would make a great summer road trip. The U.S. Interior Department began the program in 1962 to highlight our country’s biological and geological diversity. “The sites help tell the story of our nation’s natural heritage through representations of different features,” says Heather Eggleston, a regional National Natural Landmark coordinator. “Those included in the program are the best examples of those features still in existence.”

South Dakotas 13 designations include glacial lakes and sloughs, timeworn buttes and prehistoric rock. Some of the 13 landmarks are well known, such as Bear Butte, and others were a surprise even to our staff, such as Red Lake (Brule County), Buffalo Slough (Lake County) and Snake Butte (Jackson County).

Snake Butte is 23 miles south of Interior on the Pine Ridge Reservation. It features one of the world’s best collections of sand calcite crystals. In fact, South Dakota is one of only a few places on the globe where the crystals are found. They form when water containing dissolved calcite seeps through sand beds. Over time, the calcite forms crystals that surround the sand, between 15 to 20 inches in length. The butte is located in a beautiful sloping and wide-open area of the Pine Ridge, which is worth the drive itself.

South Dakota sweeping landscapes, amazing geological diversity and friendly communities make it an ideal place to get on the road and see what adventures you’ll find. We hope our summer road recommendations inspire you to hit the road — but if it’s Highway 16, be sure to yield to the longhorn cattle.

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Prairie Sanctuaries

It is late afternoon in early spring. A lone car (me) is southbound on Highway 63 south of Midland. An early season thunderstorm had just rolled across the prairie and kept me entertained for half an hour. As the sun broke through retreating clouds, a steepled building atop a distant hill caught the light and gleamed against dark blue storm clouds beyond. St. Peter Lutheran in northeast Jackson County had always caught my eye on this stretch of road, but on this day it was glorious. Unfortunately this was before I began regularly shooting photos, so I was unprepared to capture the scene. That still bothers me.

Last July, a mean thunderstorm roared along the Missouri River valley. Drawn like a moth to a porch light, I caught up with it in Yankton County. The goal was to get some interesting weather photos. The problem, I soon learned, was that this storm was rife with lightning, the kind that illuminates the countryside like a million flash bulbs and then rattles your windows with an immediate thunderclap. After a handful of those I decided I might be a little too close to the heart of this beast so I retreated north and west. About the same time I noticed a rainbow forming in the evening light, I also saw the distant shape of Faith United Lutheran Church. By the time I got to the church, a double rainbow had formed. This time I had my camera.

Earlier this week the Northern Lights began to shine and shimmer. I remembered another local photographer (Zachary Wicks) had shot a stunning photo of Oslo Church in Brookings County silhouetted against early October Northern Lights, and I wanted to see if I could capture something similar. Oslo Church has not been used for some time and has no yard light — perfect for shooting against the night sky. I set up my camera on an approach about a quarter mile south of the church. Low clouds obscured much of the horizon, but then magic happened. As the moon rose and coyotes began to howl, a break in the clouds revealed those mysterious pillars of light rippling above the church.

These examples illustrate why I’m drawn to photographing country churches. I love the symbolism of all the things a church is supposed to stand for contrasted against the expanse of the surrounding country and open South Dakota skies. Lately I’ve realized that almost everywhere I go or whatever I’m planning to shoot, if I find a picturesque country church it’s usually my best shot of the day. That is why I’ve compiled my favorite shots of rural churches over the years on a Facebook page called Prairie Sanctuaries. I’ll add to the collection as I travel the state and region. You are invited to visit the page often and visit these places with me. I promise to always have my camera handy.

Christian Begeman grew up in Isabel and now lives in Sioux Falls. When he’s not working at Midcontinent Communications he is often on the road photographing our prettiest spots around the state. Follow Begeman on his blog.

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Kadoka’s Incredible Metal

It takes little rain to turn Badlands soil to gumbo, but little sunshine to dry it out. When I turned off Highway 73 onto Swift Horse Road south of Kadoka, the sun had begun its work; the lightly-graveled three-mile road to Brett and Tammy Prang’s Frying Pan Ranch had dried enough that I didn’t get stuck, but it was sticky enough that when I pulled up to Brett’s shop, the car was a ball of mud.

Brett was polishing the steel of a big buffalo skull. Nearby stood a man-sized steel man, Willie Yellow Hawk, still awaiting finishing touches when I was there in 2005.”He was a working cuss,” Brett said, nodding to the likeness of a long-time neighbor in this remote northeast corner of the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.”I ran over Willie with the tractor,” Brett said — “the sculpture, that is, to bend the steel.”

As my eyes adjusted to the dimmer light inside the shop, dozens of unique objects came into view — arrows, feathers, busts and beasts, all of them bent, hammered and welded from steel.

Prang first began playing with metal almost 30 years ago, picking up odd scraps of iron and welding them together, just to see what would emerge.”One night I was playing basketball with some guys, and I started dinking around with some bolts and nuts and nails, and a monster emerged,” he said.”I made quite a few things back then, just to give away.” But Brett didn’t think of himself as an artist; it was all for fun. Then in 1999, Tammy asked Brett to make her an arrow curtain rod, and their artistic life at Incredible Metal was born.

Of the many sculptures Brett has created with Tammy’s help, one stands out — literally. A 38-foot iron cross looms on the bluff above the Prang home, at the family cemetery where Brett’s ancestors lie. There’s no better word for the cross than unique. Sure, somebody could copy the general design, but nobody — not even Brett — could truly duplicate it; many of the items welded into the structure are one of a kind.

Brett and Tammy and grandson Colton took me up the hill for a look at the cross that, with the help of a crane, they erected on Memorial Day 2003. From on top of the hill, the panhandled bluff that gave the ranch its”frying pan” name and brand comes into view — as does most everything else for a dozen miles. But majestic as the landscape is, it’s hard to keep your eyes off the cross.

At its four feet are welded the family branding irons, including those of two of Brett and Tammy’s sons. The vertical and horizontal spans are linked by a pair of wheels from a horse-drawn road grader like the one Brett’s great-grandfather, Cap Pettyjohn, used to build ranch roads. Above that is a cousin’s locomotive bell, which can be rung with a rope. Below the crossbar is a lexicon of cast-off farm and ranch junk, the kind of iron pile that grows behind many a shop, but assembled in an order that might make sense to one man — a posthole digger, brake shoes, a huge threading die, an axe head, pulleys, levers, gears, a tire wrench, a chain boomer, clutch housing, chisel sweeps, disk blades, nuts and bolts.”We put the rake and pitchfork way up high, so we can’t do any more work with them,” Brett chuckled.

Back down at the ranch house, Tammy showed me her art, too, mostly tooled leatherwork — barstool covers, lampshades, feather art, and a magnificent cover for their art album. She also grinds Brett’s steel work to a smooth finish. She’s actually been creating art since 7th grade, when she sold tooled leather bracelets to friends at Belvedere School for a dollar.

“I guess Brett and I are a team at everything we do,” she said.”I don’t think of myself as an artist, really.” She had me fooled. But at that moment, grandson Colton and I were most attracted to the art Tammy removed from the oven — a big pan of cinnamon rolls, served hot with a glass of cool water from the spring.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the March/April 2005 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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The Mystery of a Missile Silo

Missile silos were once buried under South Dakota’s short grass prairie west of the Missouri River. They housed 150 Minuteman II warheads that could have streaked 15,000 miles per hour over the North Pole and into the Soviet Union if the super powers had fought a nuclear war.

As it happened, the silos were deterrents, and curiosities for ranchers and passers-by. Only one was ever launched; a 7-second test flight near Newell resulted in the missile landing harmlessly in a field. South Dakota’s missiles were deactivated when the cold war ended in 1991. Most were destroyed, but the National Park Service preserved one silo and one control center near Badlands National Park as the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site.

Visitors can peer into the underground silo and see the control room where two-member teams worked 24-hour shifts. Surely all the little red buttons have been disconnected, but be careful just in case. Headquarters is along Highway 240 — the Badlands Loop Scenic Byway — at Interstate 90 exit 131.


Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the March/April 2010 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.


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Saddle-ite Service

Jim Meeks is a busy guy. The Jackson County rancher raises wild bulls and horses for rodeo stock. He serves on the tribal council for the Pine Ridge Reservation. And he is the patriarch of a big family.
So Jim relies on his cell phone as much as anyone. Unfortunately, the good lands and bad lands of southwest South Dakota are notoriously bad for cell phone coverage. But you don’t survive on a Jackson County ranch without some cowboy ingenuity. Here’s a little trick you might try — but be careful that you choose the right horse.
We’re guessing this isn’t one of Jim’s rodeo broncs?
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Penny Pinching Publisher

Pennywise publisher Paula Vogelgesang credits her Jackson County neighbors as her mentors in frugality. Photo by Bernie Hunhoff.

Editor’s Note: This story is revised from the September/October 2007 issue of South Dakota Magazine. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.


Paula Vogelgesang launched the monthly Pennywise magazine from her family’s Wanblee ranch with a $25 manual typewriter as her only equipment, and an eye for frugality remains her stock in trade.

The concept is patterned after similar publications, but the inspiration came from Vogelgesang’s Jackson County neighbors.”My mentors were women who survived homesteading, the depression, two world wars and lots of droughts,” she says.”They were the true penny pinchers and tightwads. They fed their families on corn bread, beans and dreams.”

Vogelgesang was raising three children — the youngest just five — and caring for 60 brood sows when she started Pennywise in March of 1993. She was also a partner with her husband Conrad in their cattle ranch until his death in 2009.”I knew absolutely nothing about publishing,” she admits.”I went to Wendell Long, the editor of the Bennett County Booster, and he was my angel. He didn’t think I was absolutely crazy. He taught me everything.”

Similar publications emphasize money management techniques, but Pennywise also offers tips on conserving what you already have.”I thought, you can save money but these girls I knew also had a deep attachment with the land and their rural way of life and they knew things they were happy to share with a city kid.”

She advises readers that peroxide and dish soap absorbs skunk odor, that dish soap and chewing tobacco kills grasshoppers, and that shaving cream removes the diesel smell from work clothes. Every issue has beef recipes, as might be expected from a publication with a West River postmark, and some issues contain conservative social commentaries.

But mostly, Pennywise is about living better and cheaper. Many of the ideas come from her readers. Editor Vogelgesang notes their origin by initials and state. MS from Iowa has a trick for bringing new life to windshield wiper blades and BT of Virginia reminds folks of the importance of dressing kids in bright colors for safety. Paula also has a website, which covers tips for cheap and fun kids’ craft ideas, household cleansers, bug sprays and more.

Vogelgesang eventually added computers and other publishing perks to her print publication, although headlines and graphics are still composed with a black marker. She hasn’t found time for marketing campaigns, so she relies on readers introducing the paper to other readers. More than one mother-in-law has anonymously paid for a subscription to her son’s wife — a niche that mass market magazines probably miss.

Contact Pennywise at 605-462-6495 or visit www.smart-penny.com. Subscriptions are $20 per year.

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The Cowboy Governor

Charisma and money are the top qualifications for getting elected to high political office these days. Historians wonder whether some of our best leaders of yesteryear would have been able to serve in our YouTube world.

But South Dakota historians don’t question the electability of Tom Berry, the Belvidere rancher who was elected governor of South Dakota in 1932 during the depths of the Great Depression.

And I was reminded of Berry’s popularity again today when Jan Rasmussen, a White River rancher and the niece of the governor, emailed a story about her”Uncle Tom.”

Mrs. Rasmussen wrote that her dad and her uncle ran the popular West River Frontier Days rodeo for a number of years. The Frontier Days rodeo ranked alongside the Cheyenne, Calgary and Belle Fourche rodeos in those days. The Berry brothers probably did everything from lining up the riders to ordering the beer and selling tickets.

For a few years, Uncle Tom even helped judge the bucking bronc riders. Of course, there’s always a wiseacre around to question whether a politician knows what he’s doing. One day, a spectator questioned whether Tom Berry knew anything about broncs.

The cowboy politician — then a state legislator, and never one to take much guff — immediately left his judging station in the arena, climbed aboard a wild, snorting bronc, and told the chute men to open the gate. The first bronc didn’t buck too much so Berry climbed on another and rode it as well. That seemed to satisfy anyone in the crowd who didn’t already know that Tom Berry could ride a horse.

We’ve collected a lot of good Tom Berry stories through the years, and published most of them in the magazine.

Anyone who wonders how a Democratic candidate won the governorship hasn’t heard of how he campaigned. He would stop wherever there was a crowd, and then proceed to regale the people with stories and good jokes. Some compared him to the great Western humorist Will Rogers.

Berry seldom drove by a threshing or haying bee during campaign season, because he knew there would be people and a good noon meal. He was invariably invited to sit down with the workers. On one occasion, he showed up at the Gene and Linnet Hutchinson ranch in Mellette County, where the family had gathered to put up the hay.

Mrs. Hutchinson was very pleased to have such a distinguished guest but she was also embarrassed by the men’s manners. And she wondered what would happen after dessert, when her husband, her sons and the hired man generally took a nap on the living room floor. Surely, she hoped, they wouldn’t do anything so rude with a would-be governor in the house.

The men and boys, of course, were not burdened with such a strong sense of propriety. Once the pie was eaten, they retired to the living room and soon were snoring. Berry, sensing Mrs. Hutchinson’s discomfort, assured her that there was no reason for apologies. Then he took off his cowboy hat and got down on the floor for a snooze of his own.