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Co-op Natural Foods Day

Gov. Dennis Daugaard has proclaimed August 17th Co-op Natural Foods Day in South Dakota in honor of the Sioux Falls store’s 40th anniversary. The Co-op got its start on a farm near Garretson in the early 1970s. A small group would pool their money to buy foods like rolled oats, sunflower seeds and brown rice from a warehouse in the Twin Cities. Peter Dye, a former member remembers taking a Volkswagon bus to a Grateful Dead concert and picking up food on the way home. Co-op Natural Foods operated more formally from a few sites around and in Sioux Falls before landing at its current store at 2504 South Duluth about five years ago.

As the operation grew, the store went mainstream as a professionally run business. Co-op Natural Foods now has 1,300 active, stock-holding members, but anyone is welcome to shop at the full-service grocery store specializing in organic products, natural goods, bulk ingredients, and local foods. General Manager Molly Langley says they’ve never lost their”emphasis on providing fresh, healthy food with a transparent production history.”

The store is celebrating this Saturday with a tasting party from 2 — 4 p.m. Several Co-op vendors like Crow Peak Brewing Company and Breadico will serve samples in the store’s parking lot — weather permitting. The event is free and open to the public. At 2:30 they’ll present an award to the late Senator George McGovern for his career-long devotion to helping feed the hungry. The award will be accepted by Judy Harrington, a former McGovern staffer who helped organize the George McGovern Memorial Fund donations to Feeding South Dakota.

“This started out as a moment to celebrate 40 years and its gotten kind of emotional on us,” Langley says.”A lot of people have done a lot over the years to keep the Co-op going.”

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No Bucks in Aberdeen Beef?

This week’s bankruptcy declaration by Northern Beef Packers in Aberdeen is good news for nobody. Around 300 workers (those who survived the April layoffs) can’t get their paychecks. 277 creditors — including local contractors and beef suppliers — are left holding the bag, wondering if the Chapter 11 proceedings will shake loose any of the money NBP owes them. Livestock producers who still believe in NBP’s business model are left with one less local buyer competing for their product. A city that has bent over backwards to help NBP through its long, arduous planning and building phase with a TIF district and other help now stands with zero return on its investment.

The only good side of NBP’s bankruptcy is the opportunity for a serious conversation about at least two important questions about economic development in South Dakota:

1. Why hasn’t Northern Beef Packers succeeded? On paper, NBP proposes a business model all South Dakotans should love. NBP wants to crack the big meatpackers’ oligopoly. It wants to create an opportunity for northeast South Dakota livestock producers to sell their product locally, lowering producers’ transportation costs and boosting their profit margins. It supports the South Dakota Certified Beef program, a struggling project started by Governor Mike Rounds in 2005 to differentiate our beef in the marketplace and further boost our cattle business.

Does NBP’s failure show that there’s no beating the big packers? Does it show nobody is really that interested in beef stamped “South Dakota”? Or does it show that the folks running NBP just don’t know what they’re doing, and that an untapped opportunity awaits some savvy entrepreneur?

2. Why has the State of South Dakota given Northern Beef Packers so much help? NBP could not raise enough capital from local investors to get off the ground. The state of South Dakota had to jump start it by lining up foreign investors to pay $500,000 each in return not for profits but for green cards. (This exchange is the EB-5 Immigrant Investor program, facilitated in South Dakota by the South Dakota Regional Center, a technically private company created during the Rounds administration to manage the Governor’s Office of Economic Development’s EB-5 efforts.) For NBP alone, South Dakota has recruited 160 foreign investors who have invested $80 million dollars, without which NBP would not exist.

Is any one business in South Dakota worth that much hustle from Pierre? Is it in the state’s best interest to solicit investments in risky business ventures from outside investors who do not have to live with the local consequences of those ventures’ failures?

The immediate priority in Aberdeen should be to pay workers and creditors and minimize the economic damage. But Aberdeen and South Dakota need a longer-term conversation about prospects for the local beef market and the wisdom of state involvement in the EB-5 program and economic development.

(Say, that Rounds fellow–isn’t he running for some public office or another? Isn’t he in a position to answer questions and lead a public conversation about topics like this?)

Editor’s Note: Cory Heidelberger is our political columnist from the left. For a right-wing perspective on politics, please look for columns by Dr. Ken Blanchard every other Monday on this site.

Cory Allen Heidelberger writes the Madville Times political blog. He grew up on the shores of Lake Herman. He studied math and history at SDSU and information systems at DSU, and has taught math, English, speech, and French at high schools East and West River.

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Buying a Lawyer for Your Town

In our travels around South Dakota, we love to poke around the small towns to see what makes them tick. Sadly, many of them are ticking more slowly than they did a generation ago. The population is graying; there are still some dynamic leaders in the communities, but they are busier and fewer.

That’s why the South Dakota State Legislature voted last winter to fund a program that will subsidize lawyers who start a practice in a rural area. Taxpayers in the Rushmore State already do the same for nurses and doctors. Beginning farmer programs are always popular, though apparently helpless against the waves of rising land costs.

We’ve seen towns go to great lengths to recruit a new publisher for the weekly paper and in Howard, the entrepreneurial epicenter of farm country, they’ll help you start anything short of a gang of thieves.

Lawmakers thought they were skating on thin ice when they voted to subsidize lawyers, but they recognized that it’s silly to have a courthouse in every county when two-thirds of our lawyers live in four of the 66 counties. We like the new program because it reminded us of Fred and Luella Cozad of Martin, a town of 1,000 people that sits between the Rosebud and Pine Ridge reservations.

Several summers ago, we were in Martin to learn about how the community affected the life and work of Vine Deloria Jr., the town’s most famous native son. Deloria, who died in 2005, ranks among the most important Native American authors and philosphers of the 20th century.

While looking for interesting folks in Martin, we knocked on Fred’s law office door. He immediately stopped what he was doing and drove us around town — past the nursing home and the assisted living, around the high school and out to the golf course and swimming pool. We visited the library and drove past the SuAnne Big Crow Boys and Girls Club. We also stopped at the tribal college. What Fred didn’t tell us — and we learned later — is that Fred, as the only lawyer in town, was involved in every community betterment project accomplished in Martin over the last 60 or more years. Most of the afore-mentioned institutions didn’t exist when he was studying the law in Vermillion.

Fred joked that he was already in Martin when Custer came through. “My advice was ‘George, don’t go,'” he told us. Actually, Fred’s father came to Martin in 1909. They ranched until a blizzard nearly wiped out their cow herd. Then they moved to town and ran a cream station. Fred got his law degree from USD in 1949. More importantly, he met a music major from Iowa and together they moved to Martin and hung a shingle. Then there were five other lawyers in town. He has been the lone practitioner for many years, unless you count Luella, who quit teaching music long ago because Fred was overwhelmed with office and community work.

New York Times writer Ethan Bronner had the same good fortune as we did when we went to Martin a month ago to write about South Dakota’s new “subsidize a lawyer” program. Bronner met Fred and Luella. They have a tiny house just behind their humble law office. One of them leaves the office at about 11:30 to prepare lunch — usually soup. They dress alike most days. They can speak for each other (though Fred does most of the talking). They are the best argument for lawyers in small towns — or any neighborhood — that we’ve ever seen.

Then Bronner did a nice job of introducing the Cozads to the world with a front page feature article on April 9. It was a good day for Martin. A good day for South Dakota. A good day for the legal profession. And just another day for the Cozads because, in their late 80s, they are still too busy — as the only legal office for a hundred miles around — to spend much time fussing about having their picture in a magazine or even a newspaper like the Times.

Hopefully your tax dollars will get them some relief. They’ve earned it, and Martin needs another couple like them.

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Gramma’s Delicacies


Making delicious, healthy meals can be daunting to new cooks and busy cooks alike. Enter B. Angelique Mills of Box Elder. The England native makes it easy to be a whiz in the kitchen with “Gramma’s Delicacies” — her array of low-sodium, MSG and gluten-free seasonings, sauces, jellies, syrups and spice mixes.

An intolerance to monosodium glutamate inspired Mills’ creations.”A lot of people don’t realize that MSG really messes with their system,” she says. With the prevalence of high blood pressure in our society, low-sodium products were a natural thought.”If they want to add more [salt], that’s fine,” she says. Almost all her products are gluten free except for her meatloaf and burger seasonings, which contain an oatmeal base.

Mills brings her best advertisement to shows with her. Her husband, Reuben”Joe” Mills, has a physique that attests to the quality of her cooking. They met when the Louisiana-born Air Force serviceman was stationed in Angelique’s native land, England. The military landed them in Box Elder in 1982.”When we first realized we were coming to South Dakota, we kicked and screamed, you know … and then we got here and gave it a chance, and we got to know the people, and they’re wonderful. We loved it, the kids loved it, we built our home here and the rest is history.”

Much of the raw material for Angelique’s products comes from the Mills’ busy Box Elder farm. Their goats provide milk for soaps and lotions. Sheep wool becomes hats, gloves and mittens. The animals’ manure fertilizes the Mills’ large garden, promoting the growth of the plums, apples, chokecherries and herbs that end up in Gramma’s Delicacies.

Mills also shares her cooking expertise by teaching classes with Community Education of the Black Hills.”The average young mother is busy, busy busy — they have children, they have work. In a rush, they may opt for unhealthy but convenient fast food. Mills teaches them how to get healthy food on the table within an hour or less.”You can put a stir fry together in two seconds. And it’s not as expensive as people think it is.”

To get a taste of Gramma’s Delicacies, visit their website or Facebook page … or better yet, follow your nose to Angelique and Joe’s stand at the Rapid City farmers’ market this summer. They’ll be handing out samples and serving lunches on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays starting the second week of June. The menu will vary, but will include a Creole gumbo with rice, Jamaican jerk chicken or pork, and pineapple chicken.


Mix It Up

Mills’ dip mixes come as simple packet of spices with serving directions. We sampled three of the flavorful blends: garlic dip, spicy chili cheese bacon dip and herbed dill dip, and served them with mixed veggies and crackers. Here are some other serving ideas for these South Dakota-made spices.

  • Mix one cup of plain yogurt and one cup of sour cream with one package of dip mix.
  • Combine 4 oz. cream cheese and 4 oz. sour cream.
  • For a vegan-friendly, dairy-free treat, beat the spices with a package of soft silken tofu.
  • Add a tablespoon of spices to olive oil for a flavorful accompaniment to fresh bread. A smaller amount of spices & oil makes a simple, zesty pizza sauce.

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South Dakota’s Best Breakfasts

“A timid salesman has skinny kids,” quipped a sales consultant at a recent business meeting in Sioux Falls.

That may be especially true for salesmen in sparsely populated South Dakota, where you can literally run out of prospects and even restaurants. So the smart traveling salesman of the prairie makes the most of every day, every town, every mile.

And the experienced salesman knows the advantages of starting the day right, with a tasty breakfast enjoyed in a place where the locals meet — so we asked a few road veterans to share their favorite breakfast establishment as a travel tip for the rest of us.

Joie’s Cafe — Winner

Although Wayne Hopkins of Brookings sells electrical and air conditioning parts for Nielsen’s in a four state area, he chose a restaurant in his home town of Winner. “In the winter I’d go in the cafe, just a block from my school, to have a hot chocolate and warm up. It still looks the same as I remember it 30 years ago,” Hopkins says. His favorite item is the breakfast burrito.

Brock Green succeeded his father-in-law at Joie’s years ago. Special recipes for biscuits and gravy and made-from-scratch pancakes haven’t changed. He even has his own specialty sausage, made just for Joie’s at the local Super Duper Store.

The 140-seat Main Street cafe is a Winner mainstay that was called Sargent’s when Hopkins was growing up. Visitors are welcome to sit at the businessman’s roundtable, where locals shoot dice to see who picks up the noon tab. But be careful.”Usually it’s the new guy or the guy who only had soup that gets nailed,” laughs Green. Call 605-842-3788.

ALASKA CAFE — Lemmon

Lemmon is South Dakota’s northernmost city, but it’s still a far cry from the tundra so travelers are surprised to see the Alaska Cafe sign on Highway 12 and they often stop to pose for pictures.

Inside, they get an even better taste of the Land of the Midnight Sun. Pictures of grizzly bears, moose, the Bering Strait and North Pacific fishing boats grace the walls, and proprietor Laura Casey — who runs the cafe with her daughter, Breanna Thomas — has a big compass, the only surviving artifact of her father’s commercial halibut boat that was lost in a storm. Several years after the accident, Laura’s parents moved to Lemmon and she followed seven years ago and opened the restaurant.

Amy Pravecek of Winner chose the Alaska Cafe in Lemmon as her favorite breakfast spot because “everything on their menu is wonderful and the cafe is full of friendly locals who are always willing to visit,” she says.

Pravecek is the territory manager for Phizer in western South Dakota. She travels West River back roads visiting veterinarians, animal health distributors, farmers and ranchers, telling them about Phizer’s vaccination programs.

Alaska Cafe serves breakfast from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. The big breakfast is a country fried skillet with scrambled eggs, hash browns, chicken fried steak, country gravy and cheddar sauce. Pancakes are the size of big plates.

Pravecek likes to dine on the biscuits and gravy and then take a little walk through the petrified wood park across the street. She also recommends visiting Lemmon Livestock sale barn if you are in town on a Wednesday. Call 605-374-7588.

SPARKY’S — ISABEL

Sparky’s operates from a nondescript building on Isabel’s Main Street, which is busier than you might expect because it also sits along S.D. Highway 65, a north-south corridor that cuts across West River country.

Operated by Ryan Maher, a young entrepreneur and Republican state senator, the restaurant serves three meals a day and sometimes even provides the evening entertainment, which has ranged from karaoke and country bands to pool tournaments, goat-roping and an ugly sweater contest.

Monte James of Yankton chose Sparky’s for their “All American Breakfast” — two sausage patties, two eggs, wheat toast and homemade hashbrowns. “The food is off the charts,” says James, a territory manager for Sioux Steel Company. Sioux Steel is a fourth generation family-owned business that opened in 1918 and makes grain bins, livestock equipment and other steel supplies for farmers and ranchers across the world.

James also frequents Sparky’s while announcing for the Isabel Rodeo, which he has done for the last ten years. “The locals are friendly and fond of visitors,” he says. ” They will want to know all about your comings and goings. And as the name indicates, it is not only a grill but a bar as well and the nightlife at Sparky’s is legendary.” Call 605-466-2131.

Editor’s Note: You can find more delicious South Dakota breakfast options in our January/February 2013 issue. To order a copy or to subscribe, call 800-456-5117.

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Get Fresh!

When I went through my yoga teacher training, one of the homework assignments was a 30-day diet experiment. It was meant to be a food sadhana, teaching us to be more mindful of how we eat. Some classmates chose vegetarianism; some gave up sugar. I was eating a lot of microwave meals at the time — ones that claimed healthiness on the box but listed many ingredients I couldn’t pronounce — so my husband suggested ditching our microwave. Busy evenings were initially challenging, but we’re now microwave-free for five years. We purchase mainly whole ingredients and the food prep takes time, but I like knowing exactly what’s going into my mouth.

Sometimes we cave and get takeout, though. We’re not entirely virtuous. That’s why I’m a little jealous of the Mitchell community. Billy Mawhiney opened Get Fresh! Table and Market on Mitchell’s Main Street this month. It’s a partnership with his other venture, Time at the Table, that offers pre-made meals for delivery or pickup using fresh, local and organic ingredients. There is even a self-serve kitchen where you can prep ingredients according to their recipes.

Mawhiney wants people to connect with food and use food to connect with others by getting to know their local farmers and butchers. He also hopes families will use family dinner as a way to slow down in our crazy and sometimes frazzled lives.”It’s time we reclaim the dinner table to be the center of the home,” Mawhiney says.

He got the idea for Get Fresh! while living in Brooklyn, N.Y.”I could not afford to eat much, but the access to local, organic and fresh food was literally just a few blocks away.” Mawhiney keeps his 6-serving meals affordable by using similar ingredients in the weekly menus. They even accept SNAP (formerly known as food stamps).

The business is very new, but the gluten-free meals have already been very popular. Get Fresh! offers vegetarian and dairy free options, as well, and they hope to add some vegan dishes this summer. Mawhiney gives oven or slow cooker instructions for each dish.”Everything is one-step and I left out the microwave on purpose. We do not have one at Get Fresh!” he proclaims.

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Say It with Chocolate

Chocolate lovers Vickie and Mike Marotz of the Watertown Confectionery. Photo by John Andrews.

Valentine’s Day is synonymous with bouquets of flowers, sappy cards and red, heart-shaped boxes of chocolates. But what if you want to keep your celebration local? South Dakota doesn’t have many bright blooms to boast of this time of year, and syrupy sentiment isn’t really our style. Luckily, three area chocolatiers can help you pay tribute to your love with handmade flair.

The folks at Mostly Chocolates have been delighting Rapid City palates for over 30 years. They are now working on the people of Pierre, where they opened up a second location in 2012. Try their chocolate roses, amaretto fudge, chocolate-covered cherry clusters — 3 big maraschino cherries dipped in milk chocolate — or sample their many other handmade chocolates. The Rapid City store also has a full espresso bar and a frozen yogurt bar with over 25 toppings available. For a special experience, gather a group of friends together for private chocolate-making classes with owner Peggy Kelly and her staff. Visit Mostly Chocolates at 1919 Mount Rushmore Road in Rapid City or 410 West Sioux Avenue #4 in Pierre.

The Watertown Confectionery covers everything from”I brew” to”I do.” Mike and Vickie Marotz’s Kemp Avenue store houses wine and beer-making facilities and an in-shop chapel for small, intimate weddings in addition to hand-dipped caramels, mint meltaways and other treats. If your sweetie has a sense of humor, hand them a South Dakota Cow Pie. Hopefully the name won’t scare them away from savoring the Marotzes’ concoction of chocolate, crushed English toffee and toasted coconut. You’ll find the Watertown Confectionery at 116 East Kemp Avenue in Watertown.

Mary”Chip” Tautkus’s Chubby Chipmunk has been receiving national attention lately — her Deadwood-made truffles were slipped into the swag bags given to performers and presenters at the Grammy and Country Music Association award ceremonies. Those with exotic tastes turn to the Chipmunk for chocolate made from Fortunato No. 4, a recently rediscovered variety of cacao plant long thought extinct. For a last-minute V-Day surprise, slide your cash in the”Chub-O-Matic” truffle vending machine next to Tautkus’s shop at 420 Cliff Street in Deadwood.

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Changing Roles

We’re always looking for ways to make South Dakota Magazine better. Sometimes that means taking on new roles. As of last week, Lake Norden native John Andrews is Managing Editor, responsible for the daily writing, editing and proofing. Katie Hunhoff moved into the position of Editor, coordinating overall editorial planning with freelancers and our staff here in Yankton.

But what will this mean for readers? Bernie Hunhoff, who founded the magazine in 1985 with his wife, Myrna, says you’re in good hands.”We’re all proud to have John and Katie here, helping to tell the great stories of South Dakota,” he said.”They have both been very involved in all aspects of the magazine these past few years and I know they will make it even bigger and better in the issues to come.”

And what about Bernie? Don’t you worry. He’s still our publisher, and will continue to provide great stories and photography.”Actually, I’m hoping to find even more time to do what I like best, which is to just wander around South Dakota with a camera and notebook,” he says. If you see him on one of our back roads or in a small town cafÈ, be sure to wave.

PS: Did you see Bernie and John Andrews on Inside Keloland last Sunday night? Click here to watch their interview.

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Eat Local…Bananas?


Eating locally grown food in South Dakota just makes sense. This is a rich and fertile land, where backyard gardens, local farms and Community Supported Agriculture programs produce a vast array of delicious fruits, vegetables and grains. Why not take advantage of that bounty?

When we think about local and seasonal foods, tomatoes and sweet corn often pop to mind, but eating locally can be much more exotic. A Spearfish farm offered corn smut (yes, it’s edible!) to its CSA members last summer. One local gardener successfully raised peanuts in her community garden plot in Yankton a few years ago. Perhaps oddest of all, there’s an elegant restaurant in Rapid City that serves South Dakota-grown bananas.

A tropical fruit in South Dakota? Yes indeed — and they’re organic to boot. Pamela Light, executive chef and owner of the Wine Cellar Restaurant in Rapid City, spotted the bright yellow edibles on a stroll through Reptile Gardens‘ Sky Dome. After a chat with good friend and Reptile Gardens CEO Joe Maierhauser, Light secured the fruit for use in her restaurant. Once or twice a year, when the bananas are ripe, her staff incorporates them into dishes like banana cake, banana cheesecake, curried bananas, banana ice cream, banana pie, and more.

Bananas aren’t the only South Dakota-grown food on the Wine Cellar’s menu.”We always use Wild Idea Buffalo — it is local and grazed organically. Seasonally, all herbs and some tomatoes come from my backyard Wine Cellar Restaurant gardens. Chef Chris, my head chef, gathers wild morel and chanterelle mushrooms from the Black Hills. We also purchase produce at the various farmers’ markets in season,” Light said.

The restaurant’s ingredients list extends beyond South Dakota’s borders, of course. Light also shares the best fresh foods from other states she visits: Copper River salmon and halibut from Alaska, Minnesota wild rice, and black truffles, marble potatoes and artisan cheeses from Washington. Light said,”I always give credit to the state these fresh items come from, as it is exciting to me to be able to share these things that you just cannot find locally. Bringing them in to share in our little city is wonderful! Everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy the freshest roadside produce there is as well as fresh seafood.”

The restaurant serves European & California-style cuisine, with elegant-sounding dishes like veal tortellacci alfredo, Calvados smoked duck sausage and porcini sacchette with porchini cream. As one might guess from the name, the Wine Cellar Restaurant has another specialty, offering over 50 wines available by the glass, plus an extensive selection of bottles.”I change [our wine list] about 50% twice a year so I can share all the different wines that are available to me with Rapid City,” Light said.

Like some of her ingredients, Light is an import herself. She was raised in Minneapolis, but her family moved to the west coast when in high school. In the mid 1990s, she decided to look for a smaller community to raise her two children.”Rapid City and the Black Hills seemed like a great place to come since we are active in outdoor activities.”

The move was a success. The Wine Cellar Restaurant just celebrated its 12th anniversary in Rapid City’s historic downtown, about a half a block away from Main Street Square. The restaurant is located in a building over one hundred years old, with hardwood floors and tin ceilings. Linen tablecloths, candles and fresh flowers create a inviting atmosphere.

But thinking about that atmosphere raised one question. In their intimate, historic surroundings, amongst all the fresh and fancy food, had Light, Chef Chris and the rest of the Wine Cellar staff ever discovered any stowaways in the Reptile Gardens banana supply?

“Thank God, no,” Light said.


The Wine Cellar Restaurant is located at 513 Sixth Street, Rapid City, SD. Call 605-718-CORK (2675) or visit www.winecellarrestaurant.com for reservations.

Pamela Light shared this “simple but really great” recipe for curried bananas. She suggests serving it with jasmine or basmati rice and Mediterranean spiced and grilled chicken, pork tenderloin or pork chops.


Curried Bananas

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon curry powder, or more to taste
1/4 teaspoon garam masala
4 large bananas sliced in half lengthwise, then in half again

Heat butter in a large saute pan over medium high heat. Add the spices and stir until well blended and butter is bubbly. Add all the bananas and saute, carefully turning often to coat with the spiced butter. Gently cook until hot but NOT mushy (just a few minutes). Remove to individual plates and drizzle the pan sauce over the bananas and rice. Serves 4.

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Fall Festivities

The summer’s drought has been tough on area farmers. Our orchards weren’t immune, but Hebda Family Produce (formerly Garrity’s), east of Yankton, is still open for their fall Apple Fest.

My husband and I stopped out for the festivities last Sunday. They have plenty of apples to buy in their shop, but picking your own is not available due to the dry growing season. The pumpkins are doing fine, though. $8 gets you admission for the hay rack ride out to the pumpkin patch, the bale maze, playground, and a little cup of corn to feed the goats. My previous goat experience is limited, but Hebda’s were rather endearing. Some were quite cute and others were the “so ugly they’re cute” variety.

If goats aren’t your thing, it’s still worth the stop for their gift and snack shop. The cozy store was bustling with families sipping hot cider and devouring warm apple pie or caramel apple slices. We picked up a quarter peck of Connell Red apples then made mental note of the jams, jellies, and salsa for the hard to buy people on our Christmas list.

Apple Fest is each weekend in October. Visit Hebda’s Saturdays from 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Sundays from 1:00 – 5:30 p.m. Call (605) 665-2806 for more details.